Week in Reviews

Bauer was mostly impressed by his visits to Roka Akor, where the interior "hits the high notes of modern design" and Roman Petry's food gives the chain concept "a solid local twist." His favorite experience of the review visits is the $98 omakase menu, with hits like "ethereal" uni and chicharrones and "a sushi presentation that made the artistic arrangements at Morimoto in Napa seem like a storefront venture." Though service "wasn't smooth" and the menu is overlong, with lots of uninspired á la carte options like "greasy" beef and kimchi dumplings, Bauer left happy: "You pay a premium, but the quality is high." 2.5 stars. [Chron]