Week in Reviews

Bloomberg's Ryan Sutton has released another dispatch from his Bay Area jaunt: this time, he's visited the chef's counter at The Restaurant at Meadowood. Like his piece on Atelier Crenn, it's a rave, and despite having a primarily vegetable-centric menu, he finds it better than a nearby titan: "My counter meal at Meadowood isn't moderately more enjoyable than my most recent experience at The French Laundry; it's infinitely more enjoyable." Highlights included a kale chip "sauteed to the texture of perfectly prepared pork rinds" and marine whelks "as richly flavorful as steak." Discussions of Manresa and Blue Hill's inspired use of veggies also make an appearance. [Bloomberg]