Week in Reviews

Bauer lavished a star-making review upon Nicolas Delaroque's Nico this weekend, praising the "exciting, personal and well priced" food, a list of "all the wines you'd want to drink," and service "as polished as the rest of the experience." Delaroque's "talent shows in the simplest of dishes," from roasted veal that's "an amazing deal" to a "fully realized" chocolate cake. "From start to finish, dining at Nico is a joy...I love the food, the casual but civilized surroundings and the service." 3.5 stars, and reservations probably booked out for a month as we speak. [Chron]