Week in Reviews

Bauer was understandably of two minds when it came to reviewing Penrose, which lost its chef early on and ended up having owner Charlie Hallowell and guest chef Jonnatan Leiva take over in the kitchen. "That might have led to my slight disappointment on my first visit to Penrose. However, on subsequent visits the food improved." Notable items included "simple and satisfying" flatbreads and "excellent" steak, and though prices and portions were sometimes out of whack, Bauer is confident "things seem on track to improve...[it's] another good reason to celebrate the culinary renaissance of Oakland." 2.5 stars. [Chron]