Week in Reviews

Like other critics before him, Bauer warmed up quickly to Verbena, the second project from the team behind Gather. "The menu at Verbena feels more integrated and focused [than Gather's]," he writes, praising "dramatic" presentation, "quick favorites" like the meatballs in mole sauce, and preparations that "showcase produce." "Service can stumble" and wine "markups are high," but both are "a small price to pay for an innovative restaurant that so seamlessly makes vegetarians feel as comfortable as carnivores in a steak house." 2.5 stars. [Chron]