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Bauer trundled up to Napa to review Sean O'Toole's four-month-old Torc, where he found riffs on "greatest hits from some of the country's trendiest restaurants," like State Bird Provisions' chips and roe and the NoMad's roast chicken. "These versions aren't done as well as the originals - and I say that not even liking the Nomad chicken." A vegan artichoke soup hit the right notes, but while Bauer "tasted many competently executed dishes, [he] came away confused about the menu's point of view...Torc has a solid framework and I would expect it to improve as O'Toole finds his voice and direction." 2.5 stars. [Chron]

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