Week in Reviews

It wouldn't be a Bauer review without some noise-related complaining, and he goes to town on Sabrosa's decibels. "After a half hour on a busy night, it's easy to see why sensory bombardment is used for torture." Though "inconsistencies peppered the meal" in the form of wan tortilla chips or parsimoniously portioned guacamole, Bauer did fall for tlacoyo ("one of the best dishes on the menu") and "excellent" seafood stew. "The reimagining of Bay Area Mexican food has entered its second generation." 2.5 stars. [Chron]