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Traci Des Jardins' The Commissary Gets Its Marching Orders in the Presidio

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[Photos: Patricia Chang]

The Commissary, the new project from Traci des Jardins (Jardiniére, Mijita, Public House), may have been named for its setting in a former military barracks in the Presidio, but the troops could only dream of having a mess hall this nice. The unusual location is the result of a collaboration between Des Jardins and the Presidio Trust, and the super-chef will also have a hand in the catering program there. But for the meantime, her focus has landed on the airy 112-seat restaurant, which focuses on California cuisine with a Spanish influence.

Des Jardins' Jardiniére protege Robbie Lewis (also of Boulevard and the Village Pub) is heading up her efforts in the Presidio as culinary director, while Reylon Agustin, another Jardiniére alum who cooked at Des Jardins' Manzanita in the Tahoe Ritz-Carlton, will serve as executive chef. The menu is heavy on Spanish comfort bites that are likely to be popular with Presidio visitors, like crispy potatoes with romesco, pea and ham croquettes, meatballs, and grilled squid with chickpeas and aioli; larger plates include a fennel and artichoke paella and a roast chicken with dates and marcona almonds. And of course, there are churros for dessert. Here's the full menu.

As for drinks, there's a list of classic cocktails, developed by Des Jardins and GM Malcolm Brownson (most recently of Nico). Brownson will offer nightly pours of sangria, and the wine list will emphasize both classic Spanish wines and Spanish varietals grown in California. A small market component will offer bottles of wine to go, as well as housemade jam, bread, local cheeses, and other picnic components. There's also a front patio, for warmer days.

As The Commissary finds its feet, its schedule will be a bit quirky. From today through Saturday, May 24, it'll offer dinner only (5:30-9:30 pm). From Memorial Day through May 31, the schedule will expand to include lunch (11:30am-2:30 pm) bar bites (2:30-5:30) and dinner (5:30-9:30). There will be a closure on Sunday, June 1, and beginning Monday, June 2, regular hours will be in full force: on weekdays, they'll offer light breakfast items and coffee (8-10:30 am), lunch (11:30am-2:30 pm), bar bites time (2:30-5:30 pm), and dinner (5:30-9:30 pm). Saturday will offer only dinner (5:30-9:30 pm), and Sunday will offer only brunch (beginning June 8, 10:30am-3pm). If you're struggling to figure out where your plans fall in that array of options, you can also always dial them up at (415) 561-3600, or check availability on SeatMe.

· Des Jardins' Presidio Restaurant Will Be Called The Commissary [~ ESF ~]
· Traci Des Jardins Launching New Presidio Restaurant [~ ESF ~]
· SF's 12 Most Anticipated Spring/Early Summer Restaurants [~ ESF ~]

The Commissary

101 Montgomery Street, , CA 94129 (415) 561-3600 Visit Website