Week in Reviews

"Everywhere you look, something catches the eye and produces a smile" at "whimsical" Loló, whose interior Bauer dubs a "folk art masterpiece." Classics like the carnitas and the tuna tacon win his allegiance, as do the new fried avocado tacos ("fat on fat on fat, but who's counting?") Yet many dishes falter, including "flabby, irregularly cut" salmon ceviche, crab croquetas "with little flavor," and "curdled" fondue. But "Innovative" cocktails and service "as welcoming as the interior" win the day. "While there may be some misfires on the menu, the experience at Loló is uplifting." Two stars. [Chron]