Week in Reviews

"Over four visits to Kin Khao, I had some spectacular examples of the exciting seesaw effect of Thai food, yet other preparations fell flat," says Bauer, who dug green curry rabbit in a "sauce so good we could have eaten it all night" and pad kee mao, "a roller coaster of flavors that showed us where the kitchen can go." But sometimes "execution is a tricky thing," and too-spicy prawn ceviche and a salad "buried" in chili jam were lowlights. Still, with so many intriguing dishes and drinks, "Kin Khao is a restaurant with exciting potential. When it all comes together, you'll need to fasten your seat belt." 2.5 stars. [Chron]