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Bauer went afield to Lafayette to check out The Cooperage, which was almost impossible for him to get into despite packing a whopping 200 seats. So what's the draw? Food with "an everyman appeal," like Cobb salad "big enough for a main course," a "winner" of a pot roast, and "crowd-pleasing" Meyer lemon pot de creme. While consistency's an issue and "the restaurant clearly is still in figuring-it-out mode," Bauer gets the appeal: "Despite the uneven trajectory, the future for the Cooperage does look bright." Two stars. [Chron]
