Week in Reviews

Bauer has mixed feelings about the new incarnation of FiDi classic Schroeder's, which has been remodeled and relaunched by the team behind Press Club. Now, it's packed with downtown drinkers drawn by "enormous boots of beer" and chef Manfred Wrembel's "modern" fare. "While the potential is clear in these dishes," say Bayer, "at times the kitchen loses control, and classics that should be nailed fall apart." But Schroeder's is undoubtedly attracting a new audience, and "if the kitchen can find its center, it will be a place worth celebrating." Two stars. [Chron]