Week in Reviews

After its renovation, the Big 4 "looks much as it always did, with a little more polish," says Bauer. (Not so for the adjacent lobby, which "resembles a Victorian bordello as interpreted by Z Gallerie.") New chef Kevin Scott is offering "straightforward and classic" fare like old-school mushrooms en croute ("one of the best dishes") and crispy artichokes, "a fine bridge between old and new." Don't expect culinary innovation, but waiters that "know how to indulge the privileged set" create an environment where "history wins out over trendiness." 2.5 stars. [Chron]