Week in Reviews

"Is Dirty Habit a bar or a restaurant? That's a question that's becoming increasingly hard to answer," says Bauer. In any case, he likes David Bazirgan's new menu, citing chicken wings whose "bold flavors cut through an alcohol-numbed palate," "excellent" fries with harissa aioli, and "bold but refined" cucumber salad. Francis Ang's desserts and Brian Means' cocktails also get a positive shout. "It's clear that Bazirgan, Ang and Means are a well-oiled team and are growing comfortable with the new format." 2.5 stars. [Chron]