Week in Reviews

Gaspar Brasserie has "a totally different vibe than most new restaurants," says Bauer, citing both its dramatic space and classically French food (complete with plating techniques "I haven't seen since the 1980s"). Top dishes include "tender...earthy" escargot, smoked salmon crepes that "tasted like a celebration in the mouth," and a soft-boiled duck egg that "stood out." While "not every dish works and some need more refinement," Bauer is happy to see a possible sign that "well-crafted French food will again become a culinary trend." [Chron]