Week in Reviews

"In other settings, the bold flavors of The Dock at Linden Street could feel like overkill," says Bauer. "But when enjoyed through the filter of beer, it all works well." He digs "rustic, casual, and sensual dishes like Caesar popcorn ("the best popcorn coating since caramel,") "nicely charred" grilled squid with fried cranberry beans, and "deftly crafted" cucumber sunomono salad. The beer list is "nicely curated, and the staff is expert at guiding diners...While on the surface it feels as if this is James Syhabout's least culinary-centric restaurant, it's one that paradoxically showcases his skills." Three stars. [Chron]