Week in Reviews

Bauer definitely digs Pabu, which offers "dishes designed to engage all the senses." "The omakase menu, at $95, is one of the best deals around. If you want to see the kitchen at its best, this is the way to go," he says, citing "over-the-top combinations" like the Ken's Roll and the "explosive" Happy Spoon, as well as "excellent" tempura and "perfectly cut" fish. "From start to finish, the preparations follow tradition, but with enough departure points to please the widest variety of diners." Three stars. [Chron]