Week in Reviews

The Commissary made a huge comeback with Bauer after a first visit that "seemed forced...However, with each successive visit, the connection between the food and the concept began to feel more natural." The same dishes improved with time, like a "dramatic" roast cuttlefish, "beautifully grilled" New York steak, and tasty pea croquettes, though he thinks the stemless wine glasses and unaccommodating plating need correcting. "Those foibles aside, much of the food is inspired...the staff is finding its center." 2.5 stars, and three for food. [Chron]