Bauer Grants Mission Mainstay Blue Plate 2.5 Stars

[Photo: Yelp]

Bauer ventured southward with this week's update review, revisiting 15-year-old Blue Plate, "a mainstay in the Outer Mission before the area became trendy." Since its inception, the restaurant has "not only survived, it's thrived and is as busy as ever," and Bauer found that the food "far exceeds the hash-house environment." "You can tell the chefs are having fun creating the dishes," and unusual dishes like the white bass carpaccio and the grilled octopus with tasso ham and blueberries kept Bauer interested. Previous favorites disappointed slightly, with Bauer wishing the fried chicken was on the bone, and the meatloaf was less "mushy," but "any disappointment turned to delight" when chocolate cake and "decadent" butterscotch pudding hit the table. "This is the type of diner I'd like to see in every neighborhood." 2.5 stars. [Chron]

Alex Hochman stopped by Rye Project, Adam Mesnick's revamp of 1058 Hoagie, which has headed in a Jewish deli direction. There, Hochman found a "gorgeous" smoked fish platter complete with "snappy" pickled green tomatoes and House of Bagels bagels, plus sandwiches served on two equally satisfying breads: the "golden, rustic" crusted rye and "eggy, onion-dotted" challah roll. Sandwich fillings include "hot, moist and perfectly peppery" pastrami and "delicate" and "flavorful" corned beef, with the only drawback a "mundane" cole slaw side. "In Rye Project," says Hochman, Mesnick has proven that "sometimes simplicity can be downright thrilling." [Examiner]

Meanwhile, Luke Tsai hit up the newly opened Shakewell, where the food from two Top Chef alums "mostly speaks for itself." At the Mediterranean-inspired spot, tempura squash blossoms had an "extraordinarily crunchy Japanese-style batter," pan con tomate impressed, and Shakewell's signature non-traditional take on paella was "exceedingly moist" and "flavorful," with the "perfectly tender and crisp-skinned" chicken thigh version getting top marks. "Perfectly airy and flavorful" chicken albóndigas were also a favorite, and Shakewell has "the kind of carefully crafted cocktails you'd expect at any of today's trendy new restaurants," as well as a classic sangria that "goes down dangerously easily." [EBX]

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