Week in Reviews

"Even the most straightforward dishes are intricately constructed" at Corey Lee's Monsieur Benjamin, where Bauer enjoyed rustic food made with "the precision you'll find at Benu." From a butter lettuce salad that's "beautiful in its simplicity" to "authentic" paté and blanquette de veau, he's entranced by most of the food. His real complaint is service, namely "an inexperienced staff just starting to gel," though he strangely doesn't get into any details as to why. The final verdict: three stars. [Chron]