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Bauer Toasts to Lalime's Future; Kane Deems ICHI Kakiya a Smash

Plus: AT&T Park offers better-than-average ballpark fare.

ICHI Kakiya
ICHI Kakiya
Patricia Chang

For this week's Update Review, Michael Bauer visited 30-year-old Lalime's, in Berkeley. There he found a restaurant that is still very much "part of the fabric of Berkeley," from the seasoned waitstaff to the crowds of regulars dining on any given night. The Mediterranean-California menu is now headed up by chef Anthony Paone (who previously helmed Sea Salt, a now-shuttered restaurant from Lalime's owners Cindy and Haig Krikorian). Unfortunately, Bauer experienced several missteps during his meal, beginning with receiving the wrong menu, poor timing between courses and several dishes featuring pools of oil on the plate. Ultimately, he found that the graciousness of the staff, strength of the chef and conviviality of the restaurant as a whole made up for any errors, determining that with a bit of tweaking, "Lalime's long run will— or should— continue." Two Stars. [Chron]

Peter Lawrence Kane assessed ICHI Kakiya, the new spot from Tim and Erin Archuleta (ICHI Sushi + NI Bar), which he labeled "a smash." The small space is extremely intimate and "pared down," "omitting fish almost entirely to focus on crustaceans." Kane says "you kinda-sorta have to start with oysters," accompanied by a cocktail sauce of rice and barley shoju, shisho syrup, Meyer lemon juice and zest; otherwise the Hokkaido scallop, wrapped in nori with house-cured salmon roe, "floored" Kane on both of his visits. The petite size and resulting proximity to chef Tim Archuleta is a pleasant experience, though Kane warns that the "worst part" about the restaurant was his desire to stop by a taqueria on the way home. The delicate nature of the food, plus the high-cost of premium seafood makes it "not the most affordable dinner for the 99 percent," though their happy hour is an affordable option. [SF Weekly]

Alex Hochman of the SF Examiner found his way down to AT&T Park, to try out the Giants' newest food offerings. Tony's Slice House, the new outpost of Tony Gemignani's famed pizza parlor, offered slices that were cut generously and easily up to par with the North Beach location's quality. Elsewhere, Hochman had a "really delicious" gluten-free flatbread with fennel sausage, effectively changing his mind about the potential health benefits associated with it. As for more typical ballpark fare, Hochman made sure to try the "gargantuan order of nachos stuffed into a full-size plastic batting helmet," that was average in flavor but satisfying as an experience. Tasty chicharrones and mushy caramel corn that tasted like chemicals rounded out the tasting menu at the ballpark. Ultimately, Hochman gave "kudos" to the Giants for high-quality on the field and in the kitchen. [SF Examiner]

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