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Bauer Reminds Us to Cherish Old SF at Alfred's Steakhouse

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Plus, this week’s other critical reviews

Alfred's Steakhouse
Alfred's Steakhouse
Patricia Chang

After Daniel Patterson Group bought Alfred’s Steakhouse and slightly modernized the interior and operations, it was high time for Michael Bauer to re-review the 88-year-old Financial District restaurant. At last check-in in 2010, Bauer awarded the then-family-owned steakhouse 2 ½ stars, saying it had “never been better.” This time around, Bauer approved of all of DPG’s changes, most of which were superficial in nature, but he does take offense at the switch from corn-fed to grass-fed beef. Because, as Bauer notes, that’s the true test of a good steakhouse: the meat.

“The true test comes with the steak, so the idea of using grass-fed beef gave me pause. Although it’s out of favor, I’ve been a fan of corn-fed as it tends to have a firmer texture and marbled richness. On the first visit back to Alfred’s, I left disappointed. The grill is still fired by mesquite, but the sear was timid on the 14-ounce rib eye ($55) so it looked flabby and anemic. The best part was dousing it in the accompanying whipped horseradish cream for an added boost of flavor.”

He did try and enjoy the NY strip on another visit, at least. His favorite dishes included the house martini, tableside salad, shrimp cocktail and double-baked potato. Interestingly, even with all these improvements, Bauer kept Alfred’s star rating at: 2 ½ stars. [The Chron]

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The Elsewhere: Bauer also revisited Hog & Rocks now that Rising Star Pierre Tumlin is in the kitchen, and he generally liked what he found; SF Weekly’s Peter Kane checked out Fiorella, the Italian restaurant and pizzeria in the Inner Richmond that he determined “punches above its weight;” Anna Roth — for the most part — highly recommended Black Bark on Fillmore; and Cynthia Salaysay stepped in for Luke Tsai this week at East Bay Express to share her deep love for Tamaleria Azteca in Oakland.

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