The time has come for beautiful pastry, salad, soups, and sandwiches at NOON All Day, a new cafe and restaurant now open, as the name would indicate, all-day in Dogpatch. Located on the first floor of a just-built four-story apartment building at 690 Indiana Street (at 19th Street), the apple doesn’t fall far from the tree, nearby neighborhood standby Piccino, which operates the new business. But with counter-service, take-out, and delivery options, NOON All Day aims to fill a new neighborhood need, serving an influx of Dogpatch residents, nearby UCSF workers, and Caltrain commuters hopping on and off at the 20th Street station.
Sagan Piechota Architecture designed the inviting space at NOON All Day, with tables and counters made by Sea Level Woodworks and floors in a smart, black and white herringbone tile. There are 24 seats inside and 52 outside, but plenty of diners will want to take their food to go, or at least as far as the adjacent green space, Esprit park.
The first thing customers will encounter at NOON All Day (aside from a greeter/ concierge to help navigate the ordering format) is a 10-foot long pastry case. That’s stocked with the sweet and savory treats from pastry chef Sarah Hipwell, who took over Piccino’s pastry operations this summer. Her creations include kimchi danishes with Fontina cheese, zaatar croissants, and a breakfast pastry called a Holy Mole, with mole, fontina cheese, and an egg baked into flaky layers of pastry. There’s also coffee from Sightglass, and later-in-the-day sweets like a rum toffee verrine, Earl Grey cake, and Strauss dairy soft serve.
Main dishes are from chef Carlo Espinas and highlight ingredients from Piccino’s farm in Healdsburg. His menu is divided into sections like smaller snacks (scotch olives and fried chicken bites for $6) and larger ones like salads, bowls and plates, and bread (read: sandwiches and so on) for $10 to $14. Everything is designed to be portable and customized — add an egg, avocado, or pork belly to to your roasted carrots and brussel sprouts or kale and radish salad with tahini and togarashi. Espinas also adapted popular items from Piccino, where he was opening chef, to the NOON All Day format, including “pocket sandwiches” of pizza dough in a pita shape stuffed with Piccino’s coveted meatballs. To drink are seven taps of beer and wine coming soon.
When owners Margherita Stewart Sagan and Sher Rogat arrived in the neighborhood in 2006, it was hardly the same Dogpatch, Picccino’s director of operations Kerry Glancy tells Eater SF. “What’s happened in the last couple of years in Dogpatch is kind of amazing,” she says. “We’re seeing more retail coming in, more coffee shops coming in, more foot traffic, more people on the street.”
The times are changing, too: Restaurants are leaning into fast-casual formats and delivery (NOON All Day will use the service Caviar), and nearby hospital staff and startup hustlers are working unpredictable hours. Hence the NOON All Day model and spirit: “Noon is the time of day, historically, where people take a break and recharge, set their work or troubles aside,” Glancy explains. But since “the world doesn't’ really eat lunch at noon anymore,” NOON All Day aims to designate the hour as a place and mindset rather than a time of day.
NOON All Day is open 7 a.m. to 8 p.m. Monday to Friday with weekend hours soon to come.