The team behind the upcoming Che Fico, chef David Nayfeld, pastry chef Angela Pinkerton and partner Matt Brewer, have added another project to their roster in the form of Theorita. Named after Pinkerton’s grandmother, the restaurant will be a counter-style restaurant with a retro diner vibe.
“Angela’s talent was too great to be only utilized on a five item menu,” Nayfeld told Eater. Thus was born Theorita, a paean to pies both savory and sweet. Though Nayfeld will help develop the savory menu, which will include the popular DNA Burger from the pair’s Mission pop-up last year, this is truly “Angela’s show,” and an opportunity to explore a variety of dishes, pastry and otherwise.
The menu will be filled with versions of familiar items like a fried chicken sandwich, pot roast, and more; the DNA burger will only appear during months when tomatoes are in season. Savory pies options could include roast chicken with sweet potato and thyme; sweet are classic but experimental, like Meyer lemon with black sugar meringue. At night expect heartier dishes like chicken fried steak, a patty melt made with dry-aged beef, or an English muffin with foie gras butter, honey, and sea salt. Beer and wine will also be on offer, though the team hasn’t nailed down a beverage director yet.
Located on the ground floor of the building which will also house Che Fico, the space holds about 50 seats, with 10-12 of those at the counter. Design is from Jon de la Cruz, recently nominated for a James Beard award for his work with Ken Fulk on Leo’s Oyster Bar.
So why open a luncheonette? Despite the recent announcement of City Counter, a luncheonette opening in the FiDi in May, Nayfeld doesn’t view the rising number of counter-style restaurants as a trend. “The idea for us is to find our own voice in that cuisine,” said Nayfeld. Labor cost was also a consideration for this style of dining, in which fewer team members are needed to run food— cooks can just drop food and checks at the counter. (Guests will still get full-service at the booths.)
Theorita will open two-three months after Che Fico’s September opening; no matter what the pair promises that pies will be available for purchase around the holidays. It’ll be open seven days a week form morning to evening, with full dinner service.
Stay tuned for more on the menu and space.