Michael Bauer Finally Decrees Uma Casa Worthy of Review

Uma Casa

At Telmo Faria’s homage to his Portuguese heritage, Uma Casa Michael Bauer finds some delight after an initial disappointment. On his first trip, the only highlight was a complimentary bowl of house potato chips, so Bauer decided Faria wasn’t ready for the prime-time MB review.

Fast forward a couple months, and Bauer has been back enough times that he’s ready to recommend the “evenly browned” shrimp turnovers, the “evenly fried” salt cod fritters, and “other fantabulous items” like Prato Petiscos or the beet salad. The caldo verdeo was also one of Bauer’s favorite soups in recent memory. (Last week, Bauer’s soup memory was celery root and leek from the Joinery in Sausalito, which “felt like a warming blanket while sitting on the deck looking at the gently swaying masts of the boats.” The man loves soup.) For a more challenging dish, Bauer says to split the bacalhau gomes de sá, with dried cod “in all its overbearing fragrant glory.” Two and a half stars now that Faria “is in command of the kitchen.”

Greens

At Fort Mason, Bauer drops by Greens for an update in the nearly four-decade-old vegan institution. Chef Deborah Madison’s farm to table approach didn’t need the terms 30 years ago, but it was ahead of its time and even now, “the food doesn’t feel dated.” The dining room looks a little “shopworn” but the views never get old — and neither do the ingredients. Bauer still loves the kitchen’s signature mesquite grilled brochettes and the Moroccan spices in the wild mushroom and spinach phyllo logs, but he seems disappointed to learn the front of the house is slacking a bit. Two and a half stars for Greens.

Glena’s Tacos

In a throwback to the grandest of alt-weekly traditions, Pete Kane is ready to bestow the title of San Francisco’s Best Sandwich on the fried chicken torta at Glena’s Tacos in the Dogpatch. Kane is smitten with the neighborhood and each time he bites into the aforementioned sandwich at Glena’s he immediately experiences “an oh-shit moment of rapturous transport, in an Emily Dickinson kind of way.” The “entire shebang manages to be moist,” Kane continues, rapturously, “and without tipping into gloppiness.”

Aside from the high praise for the sandwich, Kane ranks the tacos “in ascending order of awesomeness” as such: huevo, tofu, pescado, carne aside, and al pastor. The tacos here are “big and they’re messy.” With some cheeky cocktails and the frozen margaritas with agava and Himalayan salt just push the whole thing over the top.

Degrees Plato

The Express’ Momo Chang finds a kid-friendly vibe and “beer without borders” at Degrees Plato in Oakland's Laurel neighborhood. Owner Rich Allen and his co-founder/wife Mercedes Sperling set out to make a neighborhood pub near their home and the pair plans to eventually offer over 100 beers ranging from local drafts to obscure bottles. “The décor is warm and inviting," Chang says, and the space includes a kids play area that always seems to be in use.

To go along with the beer, chef Flor Crisotomo (Nido, Calavera) is perfecting a Oaxacan-inflected menu of small plates and tortas. On her visits, Chang liked the calabacitas veggie torta the best, along with the epazote quesadillas. But offers a heads up to other parents out there: your kids will eat a ton of tortilla chips and not all the spicy stuff is labeled. While the couple is still in soft open mode and the menu may get more tweaks, Chang seems to be a fan overall and Degrees Plato succeeds in its goal being an inviting neighborhood hangout.

• Chef puts Portugal on the map at Uma Casa in S.F. - San Francisco Chronicle [Chronicle]
• S.F.’s landmark restaurant Greens still going strong [Chronicle]
• Hair of the Dogpatch [SF Weekly]
• Degrees Plato Serves Beer Without Borders in Oakland’s Laurel Neighborhood [East Bay Express]