There’s a new sandwich option at 670 Larkin Street, a space that was, until this summer, home to a brick-and-mortar location of popular food truck the Chairman. Paper Rooster opened to the public yesterday, serving Chinese-influenced food from native San Franciscan Stanley Yee. Chairman fans, meanwhile, will need to seek their bao fix from the mobile Chairman operation, whose popularity the brick-and-mortar spot could never quite capture.
Paper Rooster serves a variety of chicken sandwiches like a “reserve” with crispy skin, xo sauce, and house-made pickles on Panorama bread. Yee’s sodas (ginger ale, jasmine soda) and chips (in flavors like shrimp and sriracha) are also house-made creations. Vegetarian sandwich options include roasted five spice eggplant and mushroom: A full menu is below.
Paper Rooster’s name nods to Yee’s Chinese-American heritage and references a lamentable piece of American history: The Chinese Exclusion Act of 1882, which kept Chinese people from entering the US and receiving citizenship. Paper sons and daughters circumnavigated that racist law by claiming, through documents, to be the children of already naturalized Chinese Americans.
At 670 Larkin, Paper Rooster is situated in a stretch of the Tenderloin known as Little Saigon. There, it joins lunch staples like Saigon Sandwich and Sing Sing Sandwich shop. Hours are 11 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. Monday to Saturday (closed Sundays).