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The One Word That Defines SF’s Restaurant Scene in 2018

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Top food writers summed up the city’s past year in dining using (mostly) just one word

The kitchen at Saison
Molly Decoudreaux

For this next segment of Year in Eater 2018, editors and friends of Eater were asked to keep answers brief: What’s one word that describes the SF’s dining scene in 2018? The answers that followed point to key trends and issues shaping the Bay Area’s restaurant world today, while also giving us an idea of what to expect in 2019.


Ellen Fort, editor of Eater SF: Expensive

Caleb Pershan, senior editor at Eater SF: Difficult.

Janelle Bitker, Eater SF reporter: Mixed

Greg Morabito, pop culture editor for Eater National: Anticipatory

Peter Kane, editor-in-chief of SF Weekly: Dynamic.

Paolo Lucchesi, food editor at SF Chronicle: Pivotal. I think this year was a gamechanger, especially for food journalism.

Esther Mobley, wine and spirits critic at SF Chronicle: Better.

Jonathan Kauffman, food reporter at SF Chronicle: Sorry, going with three: optimized for delivery

Marcia Gagliardi, founder of Tablehopper and columnist for KQED’s Table Talk: #metoo

Virginia Miller, freelance writer and editor at Liquor.com: “New School Italian” (ok, 3 words, one concept)