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Is a ‘Reckoning’ Coming for Tiki Bars?

Plus: Why $110 chicken dinner makes sense

Smuggler’s Cove

An academic argues that tiki bars like Trader Vic’s and Smuggler’s Cove “are not cute”

Writing for the LA Times, Bay Area-based food writer John Birdsall takes on the thorny issue of tiki bars, which University of Hawaii prof Stephanie Nohelani characterizes as “colonial nostalgia” and “not cute.” The arguments Birdsall presents are similar to those made by Chron food critic Soleil Ho about Le Colonial, but add to those claims of cultural erasure the alleged “sacred image desecration” that occurs when religious icons are turned into placemat patterns or barware.

Advocates for people with disabilities say a proposed paper cup ban is discriminatory

In early November, the the Chron’s Janelle Bitker covered a growing Bay Area movement to abolish paper to-go cups in favor of reusable options. This weekend, she presented an opposing perspective from disability advocates who say that glass and ceramic mugs can be difficult — if not impossible — for people with some disabilities to handle. Now cafe owners are trying to figure out how to have paper options in stock without grilling patrons who ask for single-use cups about what disability they may (or may not) be living with.

After three decades behind the bar, James Dillsaver retired from Henry’s Hi-Life

Henry’s Hi-Life, a nearly 60-year-old San Jose bar, bid one of its most loyal staffers farewell last week, The East Bay Times reports. James Dillsaver, who former colleague Richie Aranda refers to as “a legend,” retired after 32 years slinging drinks, and is heading to Colorado Springs, Colorado. “Sure, I’m going to miss San Jose,” the 72-year-old barkeep said. “I’m going to miss this place forever.”

Tartine bread is on the shelves at “select” SoCal Whole Foods locations

According to a Sunday Instagram post from Tartine, bread from the San Francisco-based brand can now be found at Whole Foods locations in “DTLA, Fairfax, Burbank, and Glendale.” So, as Los Angeles-based Tartine fans get a Prime crack at the bakery’s loaves, folks in the bakery’s hometown are just hoping that that mouse problem has been abated.

The Chron’s food critic reviewed a $110 chicken dinner

For her weekend review, SF Chronicle food critic Soleil Ho visited Hina Yakitori, a 12-seat restaurant on Divisadero Street dedicated to chicken skewers. Its $110 omakase (which Ho notes is the only option) might make some blanch, as it constitutes “about half a chicken,” but she says the spot’s “beautiful chicken” and “pristine charcoal” make it worth the price.

Hina Yakitori

4828 Telegraph Ave, Oakland, CA 94609 (510) 593-2004

Trader Vic's

9 Anchor Dr, Emeryville, CA 94608 (510) 653-3400 Visit Website

Smuggler's Cove

650 Gough Street, , CA 94102 (415) 869-1900 Visit Website

Tartine Bakery

600 Guerrero Street, , CA 94110 (415) 487-2600 Visit Website