We asked a group of local restaurant critics, journalists, and other assorted, and uniformly brilliant, friends of Eater SF to weigh in on this past year in food. We’ll share their answers to the annual “Year in Eater” survey over the course of several posts during this next week. Next up: our panel’s picks for the best new restaurants of the year.
Paolo Lucchesi, editorial director at Resy: I haven’t been everywhere yet, but I thoroughly enjoyed Verjus and Tacos El Patron — and returned many times to both. Nari, Angler and Dear Inga all pushed the proverbial envelope in different ways, and for me, that’s exciting to witness. But I’m sure other folks will hit on all those, so let me share a few more that also deserve recognition and support: Bini’s Kitchen and Falafelland on Sixth Street, and Chalos, an adorable empanada and churro cafe on Taraval.
Becky Duffett, reporter at Eater SF: From the moment they announced the concept of Verjus, from the natural wine cave to the charcuterie wrapped in pastry, I knew I would love it. I think Nari is gorgeous, from the jungle interiors to the modern Thai food that made me cry spicy tears of joy. I drank lunar cocktails and ate spacesuit chicken with the best of them at Moongate Lounge. And the new Dandelion Chocolate Factory is just dazzling, dedicating a city block to hot chocolate, chocolate cake, chocolate everything.
Soleil Ho, restaurant critic at SF Chronicle: I swooned over Nari — the pride that seeps from its pores is so special and infectious. Plus, it’s just an incredibly beautiful space.
Janelle Bitker, food enterprise reporter at SF Chronicle: Nari tops my list as the blockbuster opening that truly lives up to the hype. Mahila was groundbreaking as a center for delicious mamak cuisine. I love the crispy-cheesy edges at Square Pie Guys and the melty-cheesy short ribs at Daeho Kalbijjim & Beef Soup. In the East Bay, I’m a big fan of neighboring downtown Berkeley restaurants Daryoush Persian Cuisine (the pomegranate walnut stew!) and Easterly (the sour fish soup!). And not exactly a restaurant, but Boichik Bagels’ arrival is huge and the lines may never ever go away.
Luke Tsai, editor at Eater SF: Daeho, for the way the very existence of its spicy-sweet kalbijjim singlehandedly boosted the level of SF’s Korean food scene. Hina Yakitori, for each and every masterfully binchotan-grilled chicken skewer. And, most recently, Tacos El Tucán, which, if the lines ever die down even just a little bit, is bound to be one of my standbys for 2020.
Sarah Han, editor at Berkeleyside Nosh: The two former Chez Panisse chefs who opened Fava in North Berkeley are killing it with their juicy, flavorful braised lamb wraps, fresh salads, and other lunchtime eats. I’m impressed with Mama Lamees, the newest kiosk from a La Cocina alum that opened at Public Market Emeryville, especially its kebabs and lunch specials. I’m definitely feeling the flavorful menu, cozy dining room, and friendly vibe at Top Hatters Kitchen & Bar in San Leandro. And, finally, I’m stoked that the lovely couple behind New Dumpling in El Cerrito decided to try something new and open their first restaurant; they make some of the best jiaozi in the East Bay.
Katherine Hamilton, restaurant critic at East Bay Express: Top Hatters Kitchen manages to seamlessly fuse together Vietnamese, Italian, and California influences in a way that feels fresh and exciting. Zomsa’s Himalayan cuisine is very much underrepresented in the East Bay, and I love their sukuti bento box with pieces of house-smoked grass-fed bison, spicy pickles, potato salad, crunchy dried soybeans, and crackly rice flakes. Fava packs the most punch per square foot — the tiny lunch spot churns out excellent lamb flatbreads and sesame chocolate chip cookies. And I can’t stop singing the praises of Popoca, a pop-up that combines Salvadoran culinary traditions with local ingredients and new-school cooking techniques.
Eve Batey, senior editor at Eater SF: My favorite new lunch option is Andytown Coffee Roasters’ 181 Fremont location, which has a full lunch menu and an unbeatable view (it’s right at Salesforce Park). I’m also excited every time I go to Um.ma or Konomama. For baked goods, I’m super psyched that Rosalind Bakery has opened its Pacifica storefront — I anticipate big things from those folks.
Elena Kadvany, food reporter at Palo Alto Weekly: In another banner year for ramen in the Bay Area, Taishoken stood out to me both in style and quality — for its tsukemen, or chilled, thick noodles dipped in a bowl of warm broth that develops deep flavor over two days. The second U.S. location for Telefèric Barcelona might be located in an upscale, suburban shopping mall in Palo Alto but still manages to feel authentically Spanish, with its Ibérico ham and paellas that take 45 minutes to prepare. And Selby’s was easily the Peninsula’s swankiest opening of 2019. Will the return to the food and glam of 1930s and 1940s Hollywood — martinis made tableside, dry-aged steaks, that $50 burger — win it a Michelin star in 2020?