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Bagels are an obsession of the food world, sparking fierce debate and bringing us together all at once. San Francisco is usually on the periphery of this debate, as New Yorkers vie for the title of most bagel-y bagel city in America. Lately, however, there’s been an influx of the precious round dough in this city, from Wise Sons to the impending Daily Driver. Now there’s a new one: Midnite Bagel, a pop-up from Tartine Bakery’s lead bread baker Nick Beitcher.
No pressure or anything but people are used to lining up in droves for Tartine goods, and this pop-up will probably be no exception. The only thing: It’s a nighttime bagel pop-up (hence the name). Wilt thou consume a bagel at suppertime? Perhaps, if it comes from the legendary kitchen where morning buns and bodacious loaves of bread are produced each day, by one of the people who makes them.
Beitcher has been baking at Tartine for seven years, he says, and cooked at Per Se and Chez Panisse before that. The menu for tonight’s pop-up includes naturally-leavened bagels baked in the bread oven at the bakery. Plain, sesame, poppy, and everything bagels will be available for $3, or as a sandwich with smoked salmon, cream cheese, shallots and dill, a smoked black cod salad, or veggie cream cheese with shaved veggies. (See Instagram below for more details).
It’s going down tonight, May 8 at 7 p.m. at Tartine Bakery. Be there or be square round.