Chef Erik Anderson, who recently left his post at SF’s two-Michelin-starred Coi, has found a new perch in the Napa Valley. In Calistoga, he’ll lead a restaurant called Truss at a forthcoming Four Seasons resort located on an active winery. The hotel and restaurant, years delayed, are finally set to open in 2020.
“I’ve been coming out here on the weekends quite a bit, and I’ve always loved this area,” says Anderson. “All the towns in the Valley are unique, but I particularly have been drawn to Calistoga just because of the farmers and artists who live here. It’s a really genuine Napa experience.”
Anderson, who staged at the French Laundry and opened Nashville’s celebrated Catbird Seat, arrived in the Bay Area to lead Coi in 2017. Last month, he left the restaurant, and Coi chef/owner Daniel Patterson has stepped back into the kitchen. “[I’m] very grateful to Erik for his time at Coi,” Patterson told Eater SF.
Now, Anderson is permanently situated in Calistoga, and “in a good mood everyday, because the views are so spectacular.” Visitors can take those in starting next year: Truss, which is named for that architectural feature in its 150-seat dining room, includes two bars, with an open outdoor terrace overlooking the resort’s 26-acre property.
The new branch of the 112-location luxury hotel chain is the first to include a working winery (six acres with its own tasting room). There are 20 private houses and 85 hotel rooms in 16 villas, with a big pool and smaller poolside restaurant (not run by Anderson), plus a spa for Calistoga’s famous mineral and mud treatments.
On top of all that, an exciting restaurant was a crucial component of the business, says Four Seasons general manager Mehdi Eftekari. And while someone with the bona fides to attract Michelin inspectors could be important, Truss won’t just be a tasting menu destination restaurant, like Coi or the Catbird Seat.
“We don’t want [Truss] to be an occasional restaurant,” says Eftekari, ”we want it to be frequented.”
Anderson’s menu at Truss will be a la carte — “I don’t like how everyone equates fine dining with a tasting menus,” he says — though a tasting menu option is possible down the line. It’s early days yet, but Anderson will focus on local produce, “some of the best in the country,” and expects to keep cooking poultry and fowl. “I like cooking birds a lot,” he says, citing his favorite local quail producer, Brent Wolfe. “It’s one of the most difficult thing to cook properly, and there’s something so satisfying about it.”