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Inside Hina Yakitori, a 12-Seat Chef’s Counter Now Serving Chicken Skewers on Divis

SF’s first omakase yakitori restaurant comes to life

There’s no bad seat in the house at Hina Yakitori, where 12 diners at a time are now feasting on a 16-course chicken skewer–focused tasting menu. The new incarnation of the restaurant from chef Tommy Cleary is a pared-down version of his now-closed Oakland setup. This time, working in partnership with Tan Truong and Chef Geoffrey Lee of nearby Michelin-starred sushi restaurant Ju-Ni, Cleary is devoting the same level of attention and care to his yakitori “omakase” (chef’s choice menu) as Lee does with his sushi tasting at Ju-Ni. But rather than fish, the focus at Hina is chicken skewers, and over the course of a meal, customers eat half a pasture-raised chicken broken down into parts and grilled over binchotan coals, with some courses of other items interspersed for variety.

From their chef’s counter perch, Hina customers watch Cleary and a colleague roast skewers over Wakayama Kishu binchotan, a specific white oak charcoal the kitchen ships in from Japan. Glass allows diners to see all the action without getting caught in the smoke, and lots of venting was required. All in all, the construction at the space (formerly Stelladoro Pizza) took more than a year, delayed by a city-mandated seismic retrofit of the building. After the wait, here’s the result.

The counter inside the new incarnation of Hina Yakitori seats 12 customers
The counter inside the new incarnation of Hina Yakitori seats 12 customers
An emphasis is on wine pairing, with beer and sake also in the mix
An emphasis is on wine pairing, with beer and sake also in the mix
The menu at HIna Yakitori
The 16-course tasting menu is $110 per person
A look at the corner of the chef’s counter
The Divisadero space was more than a year in the works
Looking out the door onto Divisadero
Looking out the door onto Divisadero
A corner of the counter
A corner of the counter
Chef preparing a skewer at Hina Yakitori
Chef preparing a skewer at Hina Yakitori
Removing a skewer
Removing a skewer
Grilling chicken parts over binchotan coals
Grilling chicken parts over binchotan coals
Menchi katsu, a chicken croquette, with dijon mayo
Menchi katsu, a chicken croquette, with Dijon mayo
Pouring wine in a glass at Hina Yakitori
A beverage pairing option is in the works
Wagyu tartare, sesame leaf, hokkaido uni, and nori
Wagyu tartare, sesame leaf, hokkaido uni, and nori
Grilling summer squash
Grilling summer squash
Soy butter on top of grilled summer squash
Soy butter on top of grilled summer squash
A glass enclosure keeps smoke in
A glass enclosure keeps smoke inside
Plating dishes at Hina Yakitori
Plating dishes at Hina Yakitori
Chef Cleary at work at Hina Yakitori
Chef Cleary at work at Hina Yakitori
Chicken skin and salmon roe
Chicken skin and salmon roe
A chicken skewer and pepper
A chicken skewer and pepper

Hina Yakitori

808 Divisadero Street, , CA 94117 (415) 757-0749 Visit Website
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