For everyone who’s into egg-and-cheese biscuits that are bigger than your face, there’s exciting bakery news today: Devil’s Teeth Baking Company announced on social media that it’s expanding and opening a second location at 3619 Balboa Street between 37th and 38th. Pastry fans will quickly scrap together that why yes, that was the location of Marla Bakery, whose owners recently departed the city, taking their fudgy brownies and chewy bagels with them. Fortunately, with Devil’s Teeth taking over the location, the neighborhood will still have one of the best bakeries in the city, as its outstanding egg sandwiches, butter-bomb cinnamon rolls, sugar-dusted donut muffins, and shark cookies sell out on a daily basis.
Devil’s Teeth is a cozy bakery in the foggy Outer Sunset, and has been handing out comforting treats and hearty sandwiches for nearly a decade. It was opened by Hilary Passman, a former attorney and mother of four, who was an avid home baker before setting up shop in 2011. The term “devil’s teeth” is a reference to hidden rocks that snag ships, and true to the Outer Sunset, the bakery is a very beachy scene. On any given Saturday morning, surfers, small children, and dogs all line up outside the warm storefront, vie for driftwood seats in a nearby mini-parklet, wrap themselves up in fleeces and hats, and cradle hot lattes and muffins.
This Outer Richmond bakery will actually be Passman’s third restaurant location, although it’s the first outside of the Sunset. She also opened Sunset Reservoir Brewing Company in 2014, an airy two-level brewpub known for burgers, beers, and trivia nights. This new Devil’s Teeth location will be a bakery under the same name as her original business, general manager Chris Cooney confirmed. While the original bakery location in the Outer Sunset is small and cozy, with just enough room for diners step up to the counter and (maybe) grab a seat outside, this second location is nearly triple the square feet, Cooney estimates, with plenty of room for sit-down tables. Marla Bakery did significant work to the spot when it opened five years ago, putting in a big wood-fired oven, and making full use of the sunny back patio, where the owners hosted their own wedding.
Cooney says the new Devil’s Teeth bakery will open in February, pending permits and inspections. The team is planning on starting with its usual breakfast, lunch, and bakery offerings. Unlike Marla, which served dinner and wine, Devil’s Teeth is keeping it casual and focusing on counter service. They will be making some minor updates, such as putting in a big glass bakery case, so guests can eye those beautiful pastries. And they are planning to fire up the oven and start spinning pizza.
UPDATED Friday, January 17: This article was updated to include additional details from the Devil’s Teeth GM about the new location’s menu, hours, and opening date.