Finally, some good news for croissant lovers. Maison Danel, Polk Street’s newest patisserie and tea salon, is reopening this weekend for takeout and delivery. The Parisian-inspired shop opened in February — showcasing a sparkling array of pastries — personally bankrolled by husband-and-husband team Danel and David de Betelu, who also own Baker Street Bistro. The pandemic shut down the tea party a month later, and the business has been dark ever since.
“The order for shelter in place came at exactly our one month anniversary,” David says. “We wondered, should we celebrate? Not really.”
Maison Danel initially stayed open at the beginning of the pandemic, before deciding to close doors and play it safe. “It was a combination of different things. First of all, we shut down to ensure the safety of our team members and guests …. From a safety perspective, we now know what to do, in order to ensure that,” David says.
The de Betelus were also living with both of their septuagenarian mothers at the time, so bringing the virus home was a serious concern. “It sounds like a war story,” David says, “but we sent both of our mothers to different countries for safekeeping.” Danel’s mother is back in France, where she’s better able to isolate, and David’s mother is in Taiwan, where the virus has been contained successfully.
Their story reflects all of the challenges for small business owners during the pandemic. Baker Street Bistro had to lay off longtime employees, and Maison Danel had to lay off brand new employees, on both sides a “gut-wrenching experience,” David says. “It was like breaking my heart,” Danel confirms. “I have no words. From day one, it’s like family, and suddenly you’re telling them, ‘You’re out.’”
Both businesses were able to secure PPP loans, but because the Maison Danel had only been in business for a month, and those are based on past payroll, it only received a “tiny one.” That made the pressure to reopen even stronger, as “It’s just the two of us. It’s our life savings,” David said.
When Maison Danel reopens this Friday, it will be for takeout and delivery only, with a tidily trimmed down menu, a few exciting new offerings, and pretty packaging. That means croissants, in classic butter, pain au chocolat, chausson au pommes (apple turnovers), and pain aux raisins (raisin swirls). Their afternoon tea will also still be available to take home, decked out with mini croissants, finger sandwiches, and loose leaf rose and jasmine tea.
The “pret a manger” section swings savory, with ready-to-eat croques and quiche. There’s also a new “pret a chauffer” section, with ready-to-heat brasserie comforts, including the cassoulet that is Danel’s pride and joy, based on his grandmother’s recipe, with an entire crispy duck leg dropped on top. They’ll keep rolling out updates, including freezer croissants and pantry staples, so check the site for the latest menu items and online ordering.
David, as the head worrier, sounds like he’s working hard to make the best experience possible for guests, spacing out the socially distant line, routing it in one door and out the second. “We’re all in the same boat. We can get through it together. And we believe in the concept, believe in the product, and we’re making sure we’re adapting and innovating through these hard times, to provide the food and experience that we want.”
Danel, as the head chef, sounds thrilled to be back in the kitchen with his pastry chef, who flew out from France for this gig, and is ready to start folding croissants again. “Everybody is happy today,” says Danel. “To be back in the kitchen, with a big smile on the face, just happy to work.”
Even though they were only open a short time, “Our new regulars are eager and excited to be able to get freshly baked viennoiserie,” David says. Perhaps in quarantine especially, a warm croissant or hearty cassoulet can come as a true comfort.