Head to Oakland Now for Rich, Black Japanese Curry and Fluffy Fruit Sandwiches

Swan’s Market has a new two-in-one opening with the addition of Dela Curo and Sundo, two separate businesses wedged into the former location of B-Dama, the izakaya-style kiosk that served udon, sashimi, and more. The duo comes from Chikara Ono, chef-owner of B-Dama, and is inspired by Japan’s department store food halls that sell excellent to-go dishes.

Both Dela Curo and Sundo are open now for lunch, and next week marks the launch of dinner. It’s been a slow build-up following the chef’s pop-up trials of the concepts last fall as the search for staff has been difficult. Now Ono is gearing up, with plans to expand the menus at both in the coming weeks.

Dela Curo offers rich, black Japanese curry, a different variation of the homey curries found at places like Muracci’s, in which each individual ingredient is cooked until it’s caramelized to a deep, dark, shade of black. The result is something with the thickness of a demi-glace that’s served over white rice and omelets, and alongside katsu for dipping. Ono says one of the best uses for the curry is atop omurice, a soft omelette served over white rice.

For now, the menu includes dela curo black curry with wagyu beef, omu curry, and katsu curry, with a few appetizers including fried chicken, tonkatsu, onion rings, and salad; a vegetarian option is on the way, too.

Chikara Ono

Chikara Ono

Sundo is all about sandwiches on fluffy milk bread, which Ono sources from Japan. Fruit sandwiches — sliced fruit like grapes or strawberries and whipped cream on milk bread — are the only option right now, though that menu will grow in the coming weeks as well. One of the main components that sets Ono’s sandwiches apart from others in the area: the Pasco brand bread, a bestseller in Japan that has been notoriously difficult to buy in the United States. Eventually Ono will use that extra-fluffy choujuku bread for savory sandwiches of soft-boiled eggs, wagyu patties, and tonkatsu.

Starting next week, hours for Dela Curo and Sundo will be Tuesday from 11:30 a.m. through 7:30 p.m., and Wednesday through Saturday from 11:30 a.m. through 8 p.m. The menu is also available to order online. And if you’re snacking through Oakland tomorrow, Dela Curo will be popping up at local musician Fantastic Negrito’s food and craft market.