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An Eater's Guide to San Francisco

Unofficial, highly opinionated information about the city by the Bay

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From Mission-style burritos to soup dumplings to sourdough bread bowls the size of a kiddie pool, there’s no shortage of archetypal dining experiences to be had in this foggy city by the bay. And even if you’re committed to the idea of tying on a plastic bib and digging into a bowl of cioppino at one of SF’s over-the-top tourist traps, we’ve got resources to help. But for those discerning diners who want to find where locals really eat, this guide unearths the city’s true treasures.

Welcome to San Francisco

The elegant red lines of the Golden Gate Bridge have long served to welcome newcomers to San Francisco and the West, where myriad cultures commingle and coexist in this 7-by-7 metropolis. The result? A culinary wonderland crammed into a remarkably small space — a place where you can marvel at La Taqueria’s iconic rice-free burritos in the Mission, and be not more than four miles from the oldest Chinatown in America, complete with both Michelin-starred Cantonese fare from a James Beard Award-winning chef and century-old institutions. In North Beach, family-run Liguria Bakery still serves massive sheets of focaccia 106 years after it first opened its doors, and just a couple of miles away in the shadow of the Japantown’s Peace Pagoda, pristine sushi, chewy mochi doughnuts, and steaming bowls of ramen abound. This is a city with vibrant Burmese dining options, exquisite croissants, and Moroccan fine dining.

Where to Start

As you know, Eater puts out tons of maps detailing the best places, food, and drink in the Bay Area. Below, we cherry-pick the top one or two points on our most popular maps to help time-starved eaters prioritize which spots to visit.

Hot Restaurant: Of all the new restaurants to enter the San Francisco dining scene in recent months, the most exciting include Handroll Project, the casual temaki-only Mission Dolores restaurant from the duo behind NoPa’s Michelin-starred omakase spot Ju-Ni and La Société, a modern version of a classic French bistro driven by executive chef Alexandre Viriot. Since its May debut, Handroll Project has drawn impressively long lines of diners craving a taste of the A5 wagyu, uni, and ikura-laden rolls, each swaddled in thick sheets of premium imported nori. The restaurant recently started taking reservations — if you can snag one; they fill fast — though if you have a small party, it’s probably worth swinging by to see if you can squeeze in at one of the counters. La Société, conveniently located on the ground floor of the Hyatt Regency San Francisco Downtown SOMA, is a surer bet. And while it’s not exactly new, 18th Street standard Delfina Restaurant is back for the first time in more than two years serving the same pioneering menu of Cal-Italian cuisine in a shiny rennovated space.

A view from the front door of Handroll Project with two bars running down either side of the white space. Patricia Chang
Smoked uni and ikura handroll. Patricia Chang

Essential Restaurant: And if you need to narrow down the Essential 38, don’t skip dinner at Rintaro, a Japanese restaurant hidden in plain sight in the Mission, where smoky yakitori and silky tofu shine. Mister Jiu’s brings California vibes to a menu of Chinese dishes like Dungeness crab cheong fun and Dutch crunch barbecue pork buns. For an old-school experience, head over to House of Prime Rib, where chefs in toques carve meat in carts roaming the dining room and martinis are the “specialty cocktail.” And don’t forget to lunch at Zuni Cafe for the single most classic dining experience in town. The famous roast chicken is a must.

Pizza: Pizzetta 211 is the gem of the pizza map. If you can’t get there when they open to snag a table, A16 is a San Francisco classic you shouldn’t miss. Down in North Beach, Golden Boy offers excellent Roman-style slab pies.

A pizza on the counter at A16.
A pizza on the counter at A16.
Lauren Saria

Ice Cream: If you must narrow down the ice cream map, hit up Smitten for the unparalleled creaminess of liquid nitrogen ice cream, or Bi-Rite for OG seasonal treats. In the Mission, Humphry Slocombe rocks the more esoteric flavors, including “secret breakfast,” made with bourbon and cornflakes. Want to enjoy your dessert outside? Don’t miss the adorable funky flavors like butterbeer and ube-snickerdoodle over at Sunday Social in the Dogpatch.

Sushi: The most essential sushi spot on our sushi map is Akiko's, which remains for now at its Bush Street address though it plans to relocate soon. (The group also added an even more expensive 10-seat omakase counter, for those interested in a real splurge.) If you're looking for a more wallet-friendly option, try Sushi Shio in the Mission. For a San Francisco take on sushi, complete with local fish and a hip interior, check out Robin in Hayes Valley — and because, of course, there are also several sushi options for vegan and vegetarian diners including standard-bearer Shizen and newcomer Chīsai Sushi Club, which offers vegetarian omakase.

Beer: If you only go to one Bay Area brewery, know that Cellarmaker is the San Francisco microbrewery aficionados return to again and again. During these fleeting sunny summer days, there’s probably nothing better than grabbing a fresh brew at Woods Cerveceria, just across from Mission Dolores Park. For a more beachy vibe, try Park Chalet Coastal Beer Garden for oysters and local brews.

Bar: Head to Bar Agricole if you want to try one of San Francisco’s hottest bars — and a world-class destination for single-origin spirits — or opt for a more classic experience at House of Shields, a more than 100-year-old institution. Looking for something with more style? The Marina finally has a serious cocktail spot thanks to the retro-fabulous and disco ball-adorned For The Record, though the new Bottle Club Pub, with its extensive collection of ceramic decanters and towering automated back bar, is a must for whiskey lovers. In the Mission, try Buddy for natural wine and low-ABV cocktails and the charming new tavern El Chato for Spanish wines and small places.

Inside the new Bar Agricole in SoMa. Patricia Chang
Two cocktails on the bar. Patricia Chang
A roasted chicken dish. Patricia Chang

Outdoor dining: Craving dim sum with a side of sweeping Bay views? How about burgers and fries on the literal dock of the Bay? We’ve got suggestions for both the former and the latter on the outdoor dining map. And since we’re now in the era of permanent parklets in San Francisco, there are a handful worth going out of your way to see. California-Italian restaurant Cotogna might have the swankiest outdoor dining setup in town and Red Window’s colorful outdoor dining set up on Columbus wins points for atmosphere and views of the city lights at night.

San Francisco Neighborhoods to Know

For a city that’s only seven miles by seven miles, San Francisco has so many amazing neighborhoods, each with a slightly different food scene. But here are a few particularly tempting areas to start — complete with what to eat and drink in each.

North Beach:

Despite its well-deserved reputation as a historic “Italian immigrant” food neighborhood, you’re not going to find the city’s best pasta in North Beach (hit up Flour + Water for that, though the restaurant does have plans to put down roots in the area). But North Beach has nooks to explore and old-school charm to spare. Stop for a coffee at Caffe Trieste, a cannoli at Stella Pastry, and a beer at the Saloon, which claims to be the oldest bar in the city. If you come hungry for Italian-American fare, get the cioppino at Sotto Mare or the pizza from Tony’s Pizza Napoletana. If you crave over-the-top steak with a side of ravioli and creamed spinach, Original Joe’s is a guaranteed good time. Also: you will not find focaccia better than the freshly baked slabs coming out of Liguria Bakery. Finally, 15 Romolo is a cocktail destination, while Vesuvio Cafe and Specs’ across the street from each other are both oddball and bohemian.

The Mission:

In the late 1990s, Mission dining was just getting onto the map. Now, the Mission’s exploding dining scene is home to our city's most renowned restaurants: Places like Lazy Bear, Prubechu, Foreign Cinema, and buzzy newcomer Good Good Culture Club. Not to mention taquerias. Walk down 24th Street to get a taste of the neighborhood's Mexican foundation. Stroll Valencia Street to bask in hip-yet-pricey chocolate bars, smoothies, and cocktails. The ideal day starts with a morning bun or some croissant variation at Tartine Bakery, continues on with a taco from one of the spots in our handy sidebar, includes a stop at True Laurel for a cocktail and perhaps a patty melt, and wraps up with a dinner the splashy and glamorously trashy new pizza purveyor Shuggie’s, plus a fresh cocktail at the new renovated Dalva. (Pro-tip: Don’t miss the not-so-secret back bar the Hideout for classic drinks done expertly well.)


The oldest and largest Chinatown in the country, San Francisco’s Chinatown attracts throngs of tourists through the Dragon’s Gate, and it’s a true food destination. Grant Avenue is the main pedestrian thoroughfare, and while you wander around the shops, munch on barbecue pork buns from Washington Bakery or crackly-skinned roast pig from Hing Lung Company. For classic Chinese-American restaurants with white tablecloths, lazy susans, and dim sum carts, try Sam Wo, Z & Y, or City View. But there have also been several new-school restaurants opened in recent years: Michelin-starred Mister Jiu’s, massive emporium China Live, and the new Empress by Boon with an upscale tasting menu and sweeping views of the city.

Patricia Chang

The Richmond & the Sunset:

“The Avenues,” as locals refer to the Golden Gate Park sandwich made by these two adjacent hoods, are beloved holdouts from “old San Francisco” — before Square, Facebook, and Uber were running everyone's lives. You’ll find another excellent enclave of Chinese food, along with pockets of classic Russian, Korean, and Japanese foods. It’d be easy to spend an entire day eating your way through the neighborhood like a local. If you’ve got less time than that: In the Richmond, north of the park, fans of dim sum should troll Clement Street with a portable dumpling from Good Luck Dim Sum in hand, hit Cinderella Bakery for meaty piroshki, or sit down for dinner at Pearl 6101 for cocktails and handkerchief pasta; whatever you do, don’t miss the iconic kaya toast and other beautiful baked goods at Breadbelly. In the Sunset, south of the park, has ultra crispy and saucy Korean fried chicken, Palm City is a Philly-style hoagie destination, and Andytown is your stop for a hot coffee to bring to the often-foggy beach.

Glossary of San Francisco Food Terms

Mission-style burrito:

A flour tortilla wrapped around various and (sometimes) sundry combinations of meat, cheese, beans, and rice. Always wrapped in tin foil. Usually a gut bomb.


The first San Francisco brand to apply French bread technique to the region’s native sourdough yeast (c. 1849), Boudin now makes loaves in the shapes of lobsters and crabs for San Francisco beginners to ogle on Fisherman’s Wharf. Mostly in malls, airports, and other touristy places, they make a mean soup bread bowl too.

Brandon Jew:

Hometown hero and recent winner of the James Beard Award for Best Chef: California Brandon Jew is, of course, the name behind Chinatown fine dining destination Mister Jiu’s but he also offers up Mamahuhu, a counter service spot where he gives Cantonese-American classics like sweet-and-sour chicken and beef and broccoli the care and quality ingredients they deserve. To dine at Michelin-starred Mister Jiu’s is to fall in love with America’s oldest Chinatown.

Dominique Crenn:

Since opening her three-Michelin-starred namesake, Atelier Crenn, the French chef has shot to stardom. She has since filmed an episode of Chef’s Table on Netflix, opened her casual restaurant Petit Crenn, and debuted Bar Crenn, an upscale wine bar serving the recipes of French masters next door to Atelier Crenn. For the time being, Petit Crenn remains closed.

Dutch Crunch:

Little-known outside of Northern California, this is a prized sandwich bread among locals. It’s dense and doughy with a crunchy, crackly top — the result of a coating of rice flour, butter, sugar, and yeast before it’s baked. The result is a semi-sweet, crisp exterior with a fluffy interior that’s perfect for any and all sandwich combinations.


If you’ve been here for more than a minute you’ve probably noticed one of these structures sitting in a parking lot or spilling out from the sidewalk and into the street. These outdoor dining and drinking spaces started as an emergency measure during the pandemic but are now allowed to exist permanently thanks to Mayor London Breed’s Shared Spaces program.

Pim Techamuanvivit:

The woman behind Michelin-starred Kin Khao and the larger contemporary Thai restaurant Nari came to stardom in a roundabout way. Techamuanvivit attended grad school at the University of California, San Diego; worked in corporate America; and authored a book before turning her attention to cooking and leaning on recipes she learned from her family in Thailand.

Red Bay:

Yes, Red Bay started in an Oakland garage. But these days Keba Konte’s intentionally approachable coffee company has five locations including one at the tourist-friendly Ferry Building. If you’ve ever felt intimidated by craft coffee, then Red Bay is for you. Konte built the company to marry the ideals of sustainability and inclusivity in what the company calls the “fourth wave” of coffee.


Starting with the original Tartine Bakery on Guerrero Street, co-founders Chad Robertson and Liz Prueitt are expanding their empire in the Bay Area and beyond (a bakery in Seoul now serves morning buns in Korea). Tartine Manufactory is the biggest and brightest so far, with beautiful breakfast, lunch, and dinner, and bread, pastries, and coffee all day.

Tartine’s croissant
Tartine’s croissant
Patricia Chang

Xiao Long Bao:

These little dumplings, also known as soup dumplings, are thin-skinned darlings filled with meat and broth. Most frequently served at dim sum restaurants, they’re a Bay Area favorite from Chinatown to the Inner Richmond and beyond. One of the city’s favorites is Yank Sing, though many argue that China Live is the new XLB hot spot. Here’s a list of dumpling destinations around town.

Reservations to Make in Advance

Californios, Chez Panisse, House of Prime Rib, Lazy Bear, Good Good Culture Club, Mister Jiu’s, Mourad, Nari, Nopa (brunch), Rich Table, San Ho Wan, Zuni Cafe

Follow the Stars

Though Michelin stars aren’t always the end-all, be-all of restaurant ratings, they’re still a good indication of what’s hot and high-quality. Northern California is glittering with stars, with 62 Michelin-starred restaurants awarded in 2019 and shining around the region. Of course, there were no awards in 2020 and it remains to be seen how things will shake out in 2021 but you can find plenty of bright spots in our guide to 45 Michelin-starred restaurants that are open right now from Sacramento to Carmel.

Head Out of Town

If San Francisco is only one stop on your itinerary, here are some guides to help you find gems in Half Moon Bay, Sacramento, Santa Cruz, Monterey, and Carmel. Of course, wine country is also just a short drive away and whether you’re looking to tour a one-of-a-kind wine cave or for a wine tasting that comes with an excellent dining experience, we’ve got you covered. Don’t miss Napa Valley’s impressive restaurant scene, the drive-worth dining in Sonoma, or the backroad wineries of the Russian River Valley. For a more unexpected adventure head east to California Gold Country to find epic roadside pies, groundbreaking rural breweries, and the home of some of the oldest grapes in the country.

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Get in Touch

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