Eater SF: All Posts by Chloe SchildhauseThe San Francisco Restaurant, Bar, and Nightlife Bloghttps://cdn.vox-cdn.com/community_logos/52682/favicon-32x32.png2013-07-03T03:59:50-07:00https://sf.eater.com/authors/chloe-schildhause/rss2013-07-03T03:59:50-07:002013-07-03T03:59:50-07:00Ichi Sushi's Erin Archuleta on Waiting and a Second Restaurant
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<p><em><span class="credit">[Photos: <a href="http://www.aubriepick.com">Aubrie Pick</a>]</span></em></p> <p><a href="http://sf.eater.com/places/ichi-sushi">Ichi Sushi</a> in Bernal Heights, co-owned by chef <strong><a href="http://sf.eater.com/archives/2012/07/19/a_day_in_the_life_of_ichi_sushis_chef.php">Tim Archuleta</a></strong> and his wife <strong>Erin Archuleta</strong>, has been serving sushi in the traditional Edo style for the past three years. Given their small space, which seats 23, the wait for fresh nigiri, sashimi and traditional rolls can be quite long. That's why the Archuletas <a href="http://sf.eater.com/archives/2012/11/06/expansionwire_43.php">will expand to a second restaurant in the fall</a>: it'll be a quaint and cozy place with an equally small footprint (30 seats), but will offer tables to accommodate larger parties and an expanded menu. (The original location will become an omakase-only spot.) Eater recently chatted with Erin Archuleta about the best way to get a table, thoughts on soy sauce, and eating adventures in Japan.</p> <p><strong>7:30 p.m. on a Saturday night, what's the wait for a table?</strong></p> <p>Anywhere between 30 to 45 minutes. If it's really busy, about an hour. We don't accept reservations here, and you can see how tiny the space is. We're 23 seats in total, so our policy is first come, first seated with the entire party present. Because we're so small, we are unable to accommodate parties larger than six. </p> <p><strong>So they have to split up.</strong></p> <p>Yeah. The great joke is, I'm the oldest of six kids in my family and I have a few parents, so we can't all sit together. [Laughs.] We're opening a second location on Mission and 29th in the fall. We're only adding seven seats, so we're not making it big. It's still going to feel intimate and very much like the same experience you'd have here. But we're reconfiguring the seating. One of the things about Bernal is that this is a big family neighborhood, and we needed it to have a way to seat big families all together.</p> <p><strong>What do you suggest for people to do while they wait?</strong></p> <p>We're so blessed. This is such a fun neighborhood and there's a lot to do. You can go up the road to <strong>El Amigo</strong>, the <strong>3300 Club</strong>, or <strong>Rock Bar</strong> and have a drink with one of them while you're waiting. <strong>Secession Art & Design</strong> next door has something fun going on every weekend. They always have different artists, they always have a show. <strong>31 Rax</strong> is nearby, so people go and shop. There's a lot to do actually, which is nice. But if you have a larger party, like 4 or 6 people, it's best to come early. We open at 5:30, so if you can have your party in line at 5:15, it's easier. </p> <p><strong>Do people ever try to negotiate for a table?</strong></p> <p>It's funny, it's never happened. I think it's because we're a neighborhood spot and all the neighbors know each other for the most part. I think people are more surprised if there is no wait.</p> <p><strong>Do you ever get outrageous requests from customers?</strong></p> <p>Before I met Tim, before we dated, my version of sushi was nonexistent. I'm from Flint, Michigan, so fish sticks were wild for me. I remember when I first went out for sushi everyone taught me to put wasabi into the soy sauce, mix it up, and then dip your fish. That's actually the opposite of what we do. Tim really wanted to create a menu in a more traditional Edo style, so all our nigiri comes pre-dressed. So the outrageous request is not so outrageous—it's people asking for soy sauce and wasabi. We're taught to eat with these two things.</p> <p><strong>So the only outrageous request is soy sauce?</strong></p> <p>It's not even that outrageous. And we have soy sauce for rolls because it's a family restaurant, and sometimes you just want a roll. But you'll notice that even our rolls are super-traditional. We don't have rice on the outside of rolls. We don't have fish on top of rolls. They're all really traditional sushi rolls. I think the wildest thing we have is the uni masakawa—the ocean trout skin. Even then, it's served with gobo and pickled burdock root. It's just, we're a little bit different than what would be expected. It's just more traditional. </p> <p><strong>But not if you're from Japan.</strong></p> <p>Actually, we feel really honored. Members of the Japanese consulate have come here. There's travelers who come from Japan who say, this is a style that is familiar to me, to where I grew up, to my reference point. That's a real honor. </p> <p><strong>Who are some of your favorite customers?</strong></p> <p>Our regulars and neighbors who come in. You get to watch kids grow up. I mean, just even in three years. That's a big change if you're a young child and growing up. So we might see kids who start with rolls and shrimp, then they graduate to wanting more adventurous fish, like shark-skin flounder. You wouldn't think of a 7-year-old being really excited about shark-skin flounder, but they love it. [Laughs.]</p> <p><img alt="ICHI-Gatekeeper-13.jpg" src="http://cdn2.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/993658/ICHI-Gatekeeper-13.0.jpg"></p> <p><strong>Who are your VIPs, and how do you accommodate them?</strong></p> <p>For us, feeding another chef or a bartender or a winemaker or a server or a busser or a host. You've come in on your night off and you've chosen us. That's a big deal, a real honor. And feeding another chef is always incredible. That said, it's just as important to feed anyone. That's a real precept for how you make sushi. Everyone should have the best meal every single time, with the same technique and high level of experience. </p> <p><strong>Do you visit Japan?</strong></p> <p>Tim's going in August, actually, for a few weeks. He's going to eat a ton before we open the new space. And I knew I couldn't keep up with the eating on that trip. [Laughs.] I'm not tough enough. Next time.</p> <p><strong>What are your favorite things on the menu?</strong></p> <p>Right now is a really exciting time for the golden eye snapper. It's perfect right now. It's so beautiful. It's something that people really like, because it's a really pleasing pair of nigiri, and it's got that light citrus, that herb. I would say also the hotaru ika, otherwise known as the firefly squid. They're these little teeny tiny squid and they're dressed with a miso citrus. What you really get is this pop and this slight creaminess and umami. Geoduck clam is always a favorite, and that's just from right up North, in Washington.</p> <p><strong>Where do you eat when you're not here?</strong></p> <p>In this neighborhood, is the short answer. We go to <strong>Blue Plate</strong> all the time, we go to <strong>La Ciccia</strong> all the time. <strong>Incanto</strong>. The <strong>Front Porch</strong> are really good buddies of ours. I love to go there for brunch. Oh my God, La Ciccia's wine list is amazing. </p> <p>Tim and I eat in other cities a lot. I was laughing because I just know how much they're going to eat when they're in Japan. But when I go to New York, I have to wear stretch pants. [Laughs.] We'll eat six times in a day. To always be learning, to always be engaging, to have that experience, you have to just eat. </p> <p><strong>Any advice for other Gatekeepers?</strong></p> <p>Tim and I, when we built this place, we wanted it to be like a sushi living room. You have this elevated experience, but we want you to feel comfortable. We play hip-hop, it's jovial and warm and celebratory. And we're serving you this food that we've put a lot of love, care, and thought into, so we try to balance that with a real warm experience. </p> <p>· <a href="http://sf.eater.com/archives/2012/11/06/expansionwire_43.php">Ichi Sushi Plots Bernal Heights Expansion</a> [~ ESF ~]<br>· <a href="http://sf.eater.com/archives/2012/07/19/a_day_in_the_life_of_ichi_sushis_chef.php">A Day in the Life of Ichi's Sushi Chef</a> [~ ESF ~]</p>
https://sf.eater.com/2013/7/3/6422603/ichi-sushis-erin-archuleta-on-waiting-and-a-second-restaurantChloe Schildhause2013-06-21T07:50:43-07:002013-06-21T07:50:43-07:00Craftsman and Wolves' William Werner on Year One and Cupcake Pranks
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<p><em>Welcome to <a href="http://sf.eater.com/tags/one-year-in">One Year In</a>, a feature in which Eater sits down for a chat with the chefs and owners of restaurants celebrating their one-year anniversary.</em><br><img alt="william-werner-craftsman-2.jpg" src="http://cdn0.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/989226/william-werner-craftsman-2.0.jpg" class="padded float-right">As of yesterday, <a href="http://sf.eater.com/tags/craftsman-and-wolves"><strong>Craftsman and Wolves</strong></a> is one-year-old. To celebrate, they <a href="http://sf.eater.com/archives/2013/06/19/craftsman_and_wolves_introduces_cupcakes_this_thursday.php">played a prank on their customers</a> by turning into a trite cupcake shop for the day, complete with a double-rainbow unicorn logo. But, in reality, Craftsman and Wolves remains the contemporary, groundbreaking patisserie from Chef <strong>William Werner</strong>, and they will never serve cupcakes ever again. Ever. Instead, CAW is known for "The Rebel Within," a savory cake studded with Boccalone sausage and a soft-boiled egg in the center; as well as "The Devil" chocolate cake (which, pre-ban, had foie gras in the center); a kimchi financier; and his Thai curry scone. </p> <p>A little history: Before pastry, Werner was a lifeguard in Florida. But after getting a job at a Floridian restaurant, and hiding issues of <em>Food + Wine</em> in his surfer magazines, he decided to follow his passion for food. He moved to San Francisco, where he worked as a pastry chef at <a href="http://sf.eater.com/places/quince"><strong>Quince</strong></a>, then operated his own pop-up Tell Tale Preserve Company, where he first introduced the Rebel. Eater recently met with Werner [Full disclosure - this correspondent works the front-of-house at CAW] to chat about unicorns, John Vanderslice, and pastry as an art-form. </p> <p><strong>When you first opened Craftsman and Wolves, what expectations did you have? And how were those met or not met?</strong><br>When you're opening something, depending on the day, it's just like a roller coaster ride of emotions. There's a lot of fear, a lot of anxiety, and excitement. It was really haunting me a little bit. It's not even the expectation of being accepted by the general public and our new guests, but just the expectation of the product and the look and the feel and the brand. I knew we were going to get some flax for being maybe a little fancy. But we're not going to morph into a cupcake shop [<em>laughs</em>]. So maybe in a way that's a good thing. This may come across the wrong way, but I went into it with the expectation of a battle. We're going to do this concept that I don't feel is here right now.</p> <p><strong>Did you feel like this concept of a bakery wasn't something you see in this city? Or that it may be something people were not open to?</strong><br>I think just the style. The price point is a little bit higher, there's a little bit more attention to detail, more finesse. It's really interesting because I used to do the pop-ups and at the market as Tell Tale. I feel like there's this crossover that happens. When you're doing the market stand and you don't have the brick and mortar everyones like, "Yeah, okay awesome! Do it, do it, do it." And all of the sudden you get the brick and mortar and the analytics come out. Everyone's really nit picky. "Why don't you have this? Why don't you have that? Where's the decaf coffee? Why do you only have one scone flavor? Why only one muffin flavor?" </p> <p><strong>So people started expecting more from you?</strong><br>Maybe. You open up and then people kind of morph you into how they want you to be. That's an interesting dilemma that you get faced with. Because you want your guests to be happy. At the same point in time, how do you hold true to what you're doing? People always request for us to do cupcakes. I don't want to do cupcakes. </p> <p><strong>They really request that?</strong><br>Yeah, especially in the beginning. "Why don't you guys have cupcakes? Why don't you have macaroons?" My thought was there are already plenty of people who are doing these things and some doing them well, and some doing them not so well. But we're going to do what we want to do. In a way we're selfish like that. We want to do things that we want to do and make us happy. Then that's going to translate into a really great product. And is everyone going to get it? No. Is everyone going to appreciate it? No. But you can't be everything to everyone.</p> <p><strong>Was there anything that customers requested that took you by surprise, anything bizarre and unexpected? Or ideas they suggested that you decided to actually do?</strong><br>Yeah. Like decaf coffee. We didn't have decaf coffee. And now we do it and people are like, "I'm so glad I have decaf coffee." So, [<em>laughs</em>] okay. It's funny, we're still growing and you're constantly adjusting and constantly tweaking. You develop this relationship with your guests of how to keep them excited and intrigued. But the one thing I think that's been really interesting is earning the trust. I think that's huge. Once you earn the trust then you're set. An example of earning the trust is the mini cube cakes. In the beginning you couldn't give these things away man. </p> <p><strong>Really?</strong><br>They were so foreign, and seemed expensive, and people didn't understand. I remember having a talk with [COO-partner] Kate, and my investors and partners about maybe not doing those. Maybe they're just not going to get it. And I'm like, "Man, we just have to keep explaining them. We just have to keep talking about them and going going going." And now you see, you work there, they're the go-to thing for people. So it makes me wonder, shit, if we would have pulled that and didn't stand by and just wait for that trust factor. It's like the person who comes in for the first time. It's already presented differently. It's already kind of like, "What the fuck is this? There's shit on tree trunks. It looks like a fashion boutique or something. There are quotes on the wall. A Thai scone, don't know what the fuck that is. I can't pronounce that thing." [<em>laughs</em>]</p> <p><strong>So true. </strong><br>You know what I mean? "The Rebel Within, it just looks like a muffin. It's $7 dollars. This is retarded. I'm just going to get, ah, a blueberry muffin. I'll take a blueberry muffin. And a chocolate chip cookie and a black coffee." Then they get that, and it's fine. I think, for us, that's the initial push. And then they get that and they really love it. They think, this is really delicious, really tasty, you can taste the quality, the ingredients, the craftsmanship in it. And then the next time I come in, "That was a pretty damn good muffin. Maybe I will get that Thai scone. I still don't know how to pronounce that thing. Maybe I'll hear someone else order that so I learn how to pronounce it."</p> <p><strong>Like the gougère?</strong><br>Yeah [<em>laughs</em>]. I'll take one of the googers. I'll take a gauger.</p> <p><strong>People say gruyere a lot. </strong><br>Yeah, nice. They're like "Oh, I thought it had gruyere in it. That's what I was saying darling." But I think that's huge because I see people do it. I see people come in and look for the very, I don't want to say bland, but the benign. The safe. And then they slowly start to experiment and branch out. But it's an interesting scenario with us because if you go to a restaurant and look at the menu, then you're really intrigued by the poetry, the adjectives on that menu. Like <strong>Rich Table</strong>. They have a similar thing like with us and the Rebel. They have the sardine chips. If you went and saw a bowl of sardine potato chips you may think, sardine chips $3 dollars? I don't know if I want those. What else is there? But when it's written down on a menu, it grabs your attention. But for us, when you come in and the product is there, the description is there, so it's a really different relationship and I think the event that happens between the guest and you guys, that's really something I want to focus on next year. How to tailor even more when a guest comes in, and how do we try to understand where they're headed and what they're looking for. That's something I like that the staff does there. I like the conversations and the dialogue and the guiding through the case. Explaining what things are, who we are, where we come from. Not just standing there...</p> <p><strong>And glaring.</strong><br>Yeah! And not being removed from it. But it goes back to the trust thing. In the beginning, you can look at Yelp and you just want to cry. It's really mind blowing to me how in the beginning, out come the wolves from fucking nowhere. The talons coming out about everything. People ripping on us because we didn't have a sign because we didn't get a permit to pass for our sign.</p> <p><strong>And they just thought you were trying to be cool by not having a sign?</strong><br>Yeah, I heard one guy say "They think they're too cool. They don't have a sign." And I do have a sign. I'm not allowed to put it up [laughs]. What do you want? for that first year, it was almost like you're kind of standing on a stage naked. Just letting everyone point out every fault and everything they love about you all at once. I don't think people realize how personal it is sometimes.</p> <p><strong>Who are you favorite customers? </strong><br>I mean, I love all of my customers [<em>laughs</em>]! Anyone who comes in there I love. My favorite guests are the ones who are constantly excited to see what the next thing were going to do is. That's a big part of what we wanted to do at Craftsman. We wanted to change. We wanted to evolve. In the beginning it pissed a lot of people of. They'd come in and say, "Where's the blueberry muffin?" And, you know, there's no more blueberries at the market so no more blueberry muffin. "Uhhhh [<em>sighs</em>], I don't know if I want this muffin." So the ones I may favor a little more are the ones who are exited to see what were going to do in the fall and the spring and summer. I don't know if that comes from being in fine dining and restaurants, where the menus are constantly changing, but it puts a lot more pressure on us to develop something each time that stays. But now I feel like we can have a greatest hits album. </p> <p><strong>What's on the greatest hits album?</strong><br>That fucking blueberry muffin. For sure. The Rebel is on there for sure. I think now the Thai scone will be on there. That seems to be a really popular one. I think the kimchi financier. We're brining it back in the winter. The eclair is on there. And some things we won't change, but just kind of dance around it. That Vietnamese cinnamon caramel thing.</p> <p><strong>But there will never be, because people do come in and ask, a vegetarian rebel.</strong><br>There will never be a vegetarian Rebel. You can print that in bold. And for Christ's sake, it's the embryo of a fucking chicken in there. I know it's not fertilized, but how can you ask me for a vegetarian Rebel, but you want to eat this like, soft cooked egg? It's so fucking bizarre to me. And I'm not going to fill that thing with tofu. I'm just not going to do it. That's like going to see a really great band and saying, "Hey, play a Skynyrd song!" [<em>laughs</em>] You're just like, "What the fuck? What did you just say?" </p> <p><strong>You mentioned already some goals you have moving forward. And I know there have been a lot of changes recently. Like adding beer and wine, extended hours. How are you adapting with those changes?</strong><br>It's almost like reinventing ourselves. We never thought we'd sell this much savory food. Never. I didn't even want to do any savory food in the beginning. </p> <p><strong>Did you have a savory menu at all when you first opened?</strong><br>Yeah we did, but I didn't want to. I was just like, oh we're a pastry shop. So I think that's something we learned from our guests a bit. Some people say to me "I'm not a big sweet person, but I just really like this space. I like to just come in and have a sandwich there." And I never thought of it like that. Some goals are to establish a really fun, curated beer and wine list. I would love to see us move into that kind of late night thing where someone can come in and have a really great glass of port or sherry or wine or bubbly or beer. And have one of the cakes or eclairs or something like that. That opens up a whole lot of opportunities and options for us. From entertainment to...</p> <p><strong>Entertainment? </strong><br>I thought about it. We have that big wall...</p> <p><strong>I was talking to [employee] Hye Young about that wall and how you should project films on there.</strong><br>I know, right? I thought about that too. Like, why aren't we projecting something on this wall? I don't know, just different, interesting things. I like the idea of readings and stuff. I like the collaboration a lot, like getting involved with 826 Valencia and doing some interesting readings.</p> <p><strong>A lot of interesting people walk through Craftsman and Wolves. For example, Robin Williams. Great person [laughs]. And now it looks like Stephan Jenkins is a regular. </strong><br>Does he live here or something?</p> <p><strong>He lives in the neighborhood.</strong> <br>How did you guys know it was him? Did he say, "I'm the lead singer of Third Eye Blind?" </p> <p><strong>[Laughs] No. [Employee] Neela recognized him. Is there anyone, for you, that has come in and you admire? </strong><br>I think there have been two people who've come in that I was really excited about. One was Phillip Givre, he's a French pastry chef and he came in and checked out everything and that was really exciting. And then John Vanderslice came in.</p> <p><strong>What? Really?</strong><br>And I was too nervous to say anything to him. But I was really excited that he came in. He had a coffee, some pastry, a lime tart and sat down for a while. I was like, "Holy shit, it's John Vanderslice." [Former employee] Josh and I were freaking out like little school girls. Josh said, "Go up to him. You own the place." And I was like, I can't, he's too cool for school man.</p> <p><strong>A lot of people who come in also comment on how perfect and pristine your cakes look. That they are art pieces. How did you develop your aesthetic? And do you even think of it as art?</strong><br>I don't know, that's a really good question. I really want to have a panel with a bunch of people and talk about this whole chef/artist thing. I hear good arguments on both sides. I heard a really good one the other day from Daniel Boulud of how artists paint one picture, but Chefs put out 200 plates a night. If you go in and you eat something it can transcend you to a memory you had growing up and the textures, the smells, the aromas, and it's beautiful before you even eat it. That's pretty intense. And you pump out 50 of those things a night. Part of me, this is going to sound crass to say, but part of me feels like the artists has it fucking easy. [<em>laughs</em>]. Do I think all chefs are artists? No, I don't. Flipping hamburgers every single day, not an artist. But someone like Chris Kostow at Meadowood, yeah, that guy's an artist. You take a guy like Chris, or David Kinch, these guys who are working 15-hours a day, making sure that from the time the fucking vegetables are picked to where you get it on your plate and every little tiny step in between. Holy shit. If you put that much pressure on an artist I think they would just explode.</p> <p><strong>And for chefs, it has to look good <em>and</em> taste good. And I have to say, working there I sometimes feel like I work at an art gallery. </strong><br>It's weird, growing up I didn't know what I wanted to do. I liked the emergency medical field. Adrenaline rush and excitement. But looking back now, I think I could have gone into design. I really like design - industrial design, textile design, architecture. I really like that aspect of things. As I work more and more and find out about myself, I think pastry, with what we do, is applicable to that. You know, working with Benny Gold. He's an amazing artist, skater, has his own shop now. Beautiful work. And now we're doing this stenciling. I want to do something [with Benny Gold] where he designs the logo or the look or the feel of the stencil and we put it on the cake. And hopefully there's some collaboration with flavor. I'm just thinking about where we're going and how we can make things a little bit different and just have fun with them. </p> <p><span class="credit">[Photo: Aubrie Pick]</span></p> <p>· <a href="http://sf.eater.com/archives/2013/06/19/craftsman_and_wolves_introduces_cupcakes_this_thursday.php">Craftsman and Wolves Tests Out Cupcakes Thursday</a> [~ESF~]<br>· <a href="http://sf.eater.com/tags/craftsman-and-wolves">All Craftsman & Wolves Coverage on Eater</a> [~ESF~]</p>
https://sf.eater.com/2013/6/21/6417521/craftsman-and-wolves-william-werner-on-year-one-and-cupcake-pranksChloe Schildhause2013-06-19T10:20:29-07:002013-06-19T10:20:29-07:00Craftsman and Wolves Tests Out Cupcakes Thursday
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<p>Changes are underway at <a href="http://sf.eater.com/tags/craftsman-and-wolves"><strong>Craftsman and Wolves</strong></a> this week. The contemporary patisserie, known for the <a href="http://www.thebolditalic.com/blog_posts/2122-put-this-in-your-mouth-the-rebel-within">Rebel Within</a> among other idiosyncratic treats, is testing out some new menu items tomorrow, June 20: cupcakes. As the patisserie celebrates its first anniversary, chef <strong>William Werner</strong> says there has been a strong demand for the things, so he's giving it a go. "We've been listening to the guests and just trying to figure things out... we're going to make some transitions and adjust the concept a little bit," says Werner. Expect flavors like "Carrots and Wolves" (a cocoa carrot cake with brown butter cream cheese and a carrot macaron), and "the Hasselhoff" (a soft caramel cake with milk chocolate ganache and toasted coconut). Werner also shares with us a possible re-design of their logo. (Wink wink?) </p> <p>· <a href="http://sf.eater.com/archives/2013/04/30/craftsman_wolves_adds_dinner_booze_ferry_plaza_stand.php">Craftsman & Wolves Adds Dinner, Ferry Plaza Stand</a> [~ESF~]<br>· <a href="http://sf.eater.com/tags/craftsman-and-wolves">All Craftsman & Wolves Coverage</a> [~ESF~]</p>
https://sf.eater.com/2013/6/19/6418141/craftsman-and-wolves-tests-out-cupcakes-thursdayChloe Schildhause2013-06-05T06:25:16-07:002013-06-05T06:25:16-07:00Kurt Abney on 20 Years at Dottie's True Blue Cafe
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<p><em>Welcome to <strong>Lifers</strong>, a feature in which Eater interviews the men and women who have worked in the restaurant and bar industry for the better part of their lives, sharing their stories and more.</em></p> <p><img alt="Screen%20Shot%202013-06-05%20at%201.21.37%20PM.png" src="http://cdn3.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/999654/Screen_20Shot_202013-06-05_20at_201.21.37_20PM.0.png" width="495" height="379"><br><em><span class="credit">[Photos: <a href="http://www.aubriepick.com">Aubrie Pick</a>]</span></em></p> <p>Though it's been open for two decades as of this month, the brunch line at <strong><a href="http://sf.eater.com/places/dotties">Dottie's True Blue Cafe</a></strong> has yet to wane. The brains behind the SF brunch mecca? Owner-operator <strong>Kurt Abney</strong>, who cooks on the line every day, making the grilled cornbread, egg scrambles, black-bean cakes and savory strata that Dottie's is known for. </p> <p>Kurt's restaurant career started at age 19, when he took a line-cook gig at a restaurant in his native Arizona. In his early 30s, he began attending the pastry program at Tante Marie's Cooking School, taking over ownership of the then-two-year-old Dottie's shortly thereafter. Since adopting Dottie's and making it his own, he's been written up in <em>Gourmet</em>, featured on <em>Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives</em>, and made numerous lists of the top brunch spots in the city. A little over a year ago, he also <a href="http://sf.eater.com/archives/2012/01/19/dotties.php">relocated the restaurant</a> from its original Tenderloin location to a much larger space on 6th Street. Eater recently met with Abney at Dottie's, where he reflected on the past 20 years and the restaurant's future. </p> <p><strong>How did you find and come to own Dottie's?</strong></p> <p>I had a partner for 10 years. In 1992, we sold everything we owned here in San Francisco and moved to Paris. Our plan was to travel for at least a year throughout Europe, and we were going to keep a little journal of cafes and restaurants that we liked. Then we'd decide after a year whether we would come back [to San Francisco] or stay over there and open what would be, for us, the ultimate little cafe. </p> <p>Unfortunately, he died very suddenly, 10 days after we got there. So I ended up coming back to San Francisco once I was allowed the proper paperwork for bringing him back. I didn't work for about a year and a half while I was dealing with all of that, and then I decided I needed to carry on with what we were going to do. So I went to pastry school [at Tante Marie's]. When that finished, I started looking with a broker for spaces to open a place, and didn't really find what I was looking for. He said, "There's this restaurant that's already set up. It's a breakfast place. They opened it maybe two years ago, but it's not really what they want to do, so why don't you look at it?" </p> <p>I did, and it was at the Tenderloin. At that time, I really was iffy about the neighborhood. I wasn't sure. I ended up just saying, "Let me go for it and let me see what I can do." I had cooked all my life, but I hadn't cooked professionally since I was 19. I had always been at the front of the house of restaurants during that time. </p> <p><strong>And how old were you when you found Dottie's?</strong></p> <p>I was 32. So I went in there before we opened, and just started practicing with eggs. Because I didn't really know how to cook all styles of eggs. I started making my own bread, and just kind of gradually built from there. It was very scary the first six months or so, especially the first winter. Once winter rolled around, we had days where we literally were there all day long and took in less than $100.</p> <p><strong>When you first opened, what was the menu like, and how has it changed over time?</strong></p> <p>I initially just kept [the original owners'] menu, but I started taking things off right away. Things I didn't want to do for lunch and stuff. I did a specials board and that's how I started adding things in. And dishes were created, like the black-bean cakes which we've had for 20 years. I went to New York for a friend's birthday, and it was a Cajun-themed party. There was crawfish and I was cooking black-eyed peas. We started drinking and sort of forgot about the food, so the black-eyed peas turned to mush. I went through her cabinets and threw some spices in and some breadcrumbs and made some patties and fried them. Everybody loved them, and I thought, well, I can do this for breakfast as a vegetarian replacement for sausage. So I came back and started doing it, and it became one of our biggest dishes. Initially it was black-eyed peas, but now I use black beans; we always have black bean chili, so I use that mix to make my bean cakes. A lot of dishes have come about from me experimenting and with my own health issues. I have some gluten-free things now because I am one of those people that can't have it. [Laughs.]</p> <p><strong>And you have so many lovely breads, too.</strong></p> <p>I know. And I've been a vegetarian...well, I was a strict vegetarian for 20 years. I started eating fish five years ago, but I've always eaten a lot of bread. I love it. But I just can't do it anymore. It causes me all kinds of problems. </p> <p><strong>So you've been a vegetarian since opening Dottie's.</strong></p> <p>Yeah. Any time I'm doing meat stuff, I ask the other people in the kitchen to try things. But I work a lot from memory when it comes to doing things like that. When it comes to making sure everything is balanced, the spices, I'll have them taste it.</p> <p><img alt="Dotties-1.jpg" src="http://cdn2.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/999656/Dotties-1.0.jpg"></p> <p><strong>What's your typical day like?</strong></p> <p>I don't come in as early as I used to. In the early days, I did the baking also. But now there's a full-time baker who comes in around two in the morning, on average. I don't get here until 6:45, 7 a.m. We get the line set up and I make sure everything is the way it needs to be on the floor, and we're just set to go. Then I literally work the line, which at some point I need to stop doing all the time. I've been doing it for 20 years, there at the stove for eight hours on the days we're open. But just this past September I went to a five-day schedule, just because I can't do it any longer. Six days a week for 19 years, literally.</p> <p>After we close, there's clean-up and ordering and prep for the next day. Taking care of the money at the end of the day. And oftentimes, I will have to shop, because a lot of the stuff I have to purchase myself. Depends. I generally get home around seven in the evening. Sometimes later, depending on the day. It's still a 12-hour day, generally. </p> <p><strong>How do you spend your days off?</strong></p> <p>Oftentimes I'm doing paperwork on one of the days. I'm also in the process of getting things together for a cookbook, so that's my latest project. And historically, I always get myself involved in big messes, like buying a piece of property and renovating it while I'm working. So I really create monstrous things for myself at times, which causes me a great deal of stress. I think I'm finally learning how to stop doing that. </p> <p><strong>After working all day, do you then cook dinner for yourself at home? </strong></p> <p>No. I'm always best when I make a fresh juice at home for dinner. That's all I really should eat. When you're over 50, it's so easy to gain weight, and I just can't eat at night. [Laughs.] When I'm best, I'm doing that kind of stuff and I really don't cook much at home. Once in a while, but very rarely. I have a dehydrator and I'm experimenting, working on some gluten free vegan crackers and things like that.</p> <p><strong>Is there a dish on the menu that is your favorite to make?</strong></p> <p>I like making preserves and things. I don't do it as much as I used to. I do like baking, but it's rare that I do that anymore. Once in a while, I'll make a few loaves of bread.</p> <p><strong>What about your favorite thing to eat on the menu? </strong></p> <p>For me, the zucchini cakes. That's a gluten-free item. I love strata, but I can't eat it anymore because it's a savory bread pudding. But I really love that. The sweet-potato tart, I really love. But that's also a wheat crust on it. The fritatta is one of my favorites. But I eat a lot of salads, things like that. I start everyday with a green smoothie with coconut water and spinach, protein powder, and blueberries, and I put nuts in it, or avocado. </p> <p><strong>Sounds refreshing.</strong></p> <p>It's a great way to start the day. It gives you everything you need and it lasts a long time. </p> <p><strong>What do you love most about this job?</strong></p> <p>The people I've met over the years. I've made some really great friends through the restaurant, and some people that live in different countries come here every year. I've seen their children go from little tots to college age. It's pretty amazing having that kind of relationship with people, and people sending cards and letters over the years. People come up to you and tell you how much they appreciate what you do. That's the most rewarding for me. </p> <p><strong>Over the past 20 years, have there been some weird moments as well?</strong></p> <p>We have always been located in a neighborhood where you have many colorful characters. I've had people throw food at me, things like that. One man that used to come on a regular basis was always very rude to everybody, and I just told him at one point, "I'm not sure why you come here, but you really shouldn't come back, because I don't want you treating the staff the way you do. There's obviously something you like, or you wouldn't keep coming back." Then he told me he was going to come back and blow my head off with a .45. </p> <p>I didn't see him for a long time, and one day, I looked up and he's standing in the doorway in the line. I just shook my head and said, "No. Even though it's been a year since I've seen you, one thing you need to know is I will never forget your face. You don't threaten my life then think you're going to come back here." He tried several more times, every couple of years. And every time I would see him, I would say, still, no. And he said, "But I'm a different person now." I said, "I'm really happy for you, but I'm sorry. You can't come here anymore."</p> <p><strong>Has he followed you to your new location?</strong></p> <p>No. I haven't seen him in a few years. But literally, for 10 years, every couple of years he would pop up. </p> <p><strong>Scary.</strong></p> <p>I've had a couple instances like that. Stalker-like people on the phone. </p> <p><strong>They'll repeatedly call?</strong></p> <p>Yeah and say things like, "I'd like to see you cooking in this outfit." [Laughs.] Someone left a note on my car once, and I knew who this person was. I looked up and he was staring through the window, and just kind of moved away. And then I saw the note on my car: "I'm sure you have somebody, but if you'd ever like to talk, I'd love to meet you." It was signed Punk Rock Boy. [Laughs.]</p> <p><strong>Was he quite young?</strong> </p> <p>Yes, and I still see him on the street now. He's an addict. </p> <p><strong>Does he actually look like a punk rock boy? </strong></p> <p>Yes, he fits his description. Absolutely. That was a long time ago, when I was younger, probably 15 years ago, when he left that note on my car. Those are my memories. </p> <p><strong>Oh man, so you've encountered a lot of semi-creepy people. </strong></p> <p>Sometimes. But also some wonderful people.</p> <p><strong>Who are some of your favorite customers?</strong> </p> <p>I have one here, her name is Kara. She comes in generally every Monday, unless she's traveling, which she does often. She comes in for bean cakes. You see people who have been coming here for 20 years, and they order the same thing. A lot of our favorite customers have passed away over the years. There were a lot of elderly people who used to come all the time in the old place. We have one here, and he sits at the front table and he's pretty much by himself. Sometimes he comes in his pajamas! [Laughs.] He feels that comfortable.</p> <p><strong>What do you think of your new location? Do you miss the old place?</strong></p> <p>No. Well, sometimes I miss the ease of running it, because it was so much smaller. This is definitely a lot more of a challenge for me to keep control of everything. But I love the space. It's beautiful. And the neighborhood, it's no different than where we came from, so it was not an issue in moving here. </p> <p><strong>At what point after opening did you start getting long lines? When did that start?</strong></p> <p>Well, we had it on weekends, even in the beginning. But we were open for nine months and we were in <em>Gourmet</em> magazine. There was a little section they did on breakfast spots in the Bay Area, and we were one of them. That was really the turning point for the whole business, when we really took off. People came in overnight, from all over the place, with the page ripped out of the magazine.</p> <p><strong>How do you feel about reading about yourself or being on television?</strong></p> <p>I don't particularly like to watch myself. I've had experiences where people write things that aren't true. It comes with the territory. There are some people who want to build you up, and some people who want to bring you down. But you have to focus on what you do, and forget about it. </p> <p><strong>When you think about your future, do you have any anticipation of how much longer you want to work here? And the plan for Dottie's in general?</strong></p> <p>It's important for me to get the book done. And I do have issues with my body from standing for 20 years. It's just...you're not meant to stand for 12 hours a day for 20 years. It begins to take a toll. [Laughs.] The writing's on the wall for me; I definitely have to change the way I work. I'll stay in the business, I know, but I may completely change what I do.</p> <p><strong>What kind of physical things happen?</strong></p> <p>I've had blood clots. Working all day, then getting on an airplane to Mexico, waking up the next day with a blood clot in my leg. Thank God it was on the surface and visible, because otherwise you could just drop over dead. [Laughs.] So now I'm supposed to wear compression stockings. Not glamorous. But I wear them sometimes. Not always.</p> <p><strong>Are you wearing them today?</strong></p> <p>No, I'm not. [Laughs.] And I used to wear the thigh-high ones, too, but they always roll down over the course of the day. So when I wear them, they're the knee-highs. But anyone who is on their feet all day, not matter how old, should wear them. It definitely causes problems as you get older. Also, you end up having back problems, so I go to the chiropractor on a regular basis and I get massages on a regular basis. </p> <p><strong>Where do you go for massages?</strong></p> <p>I have my own massage therapist, so I have my own table. I've had my own massage therapist for almost 20 years. And I always make sure I get a facial every month. I try to take care of myself as much as I can. You have to treat yourself.</p> <p>· <a href="http://sf.eater.com/archives/2012/11/21/the_eater_sf_brunch_heatmap.php">San Francisco's 15 Hottest Brunch Restaurants</a> [~ ESF ~]<br>· <a href="http://sf.eater.com/archives/2012/01/19/dotties.php">A Photo Tour of Dottie's New Home</a> [~ ESF ~]</p>
https://sf.eater.com/2013/6/5/6429305/kurt-abney-on-20-years-at-dotties-true-blue-cafeChloe Schildhause2013-05-29T07:52:57-07:002013-05-29T07:52:57-07:00Copita's Joanne Weir and Gonzalo Rivera
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<p><em>Welcome to <a href="http://sf.eater.com/tags/one-year-in">One Year In</a>, a feature in which Eater sits down for a chat with the chefs and owners of restaurants celebrating their one-year anniversary.</em></p> <p><img alt="One%20Year%20-%20Copita-25.jpg" src="http://cdn3.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/1001764/One_20Year_20-_20Copita-25.0.jpg"><br><em><span class="credit">[Photos: <a href="http://www.aubriepick.com">Aubrie Pick</a>]</span></em></p> <p>It all started with a book about tequila. When chef/cookbook author/TV personality <a href="http://sf.eater.com/tags/joanne-weir"><strong>Joanne Weir</strong></a>, released <em><a href="http://www.amazon.com/Tequila-Guide-Types-Flights-Cocktails/dp/1580089496?tag=eater0c-20" rel="sponsored nofollow noopener" target="_blank">Tequila: A Guide to Types, Flights, Cocktails, and Bites</a></em>, her friend, legendary <strong>Il Fornaio</strong> restaurateur <a href="http://sf.eater.com/tags/larry-mindel"><strong>Larry Mindel</strong></a> tried her margarita and thought it was the best he ever had. He encouraged her to join him in opening a Mexican restaurant, and in May 2012, the duo opened <strong><a href="http://sf.eater.com/places/copita">Copita</a></strong>, located on Bridgeway in Sausalito. The restaurant had some chef shuffles in the beginning before landing executive chef <strong>Gonzalo Rivera</strong>, a <strong>Michael Mina</strong> alum. As Copita celebrates its one-year anniversary, Eater met up with Weir and Rivera to discuss moving from a TV kitchen to a restaurant one, tequila milkshakes, and schemes for the year ahead. </p> <p><strong>2013 has already gone by so fast. It scares me.</strong></p> <p><strong>Gonzalo Rivera:</strong> It's gone by really fast for me. I can't believe it's already May.</p> <p><strong>One year in, how has it been? What expectations did you have when deciding to open a restaurant? </strong></p> <p><strong>Joanne Weir:</strong> When Larry [Mindel] asked if I wanted to open a restaurant and I said yes, I thought we would open this little spot and I'd come in with my cute little clothes on. And I'd be smiling around, talking to everyone and people would know me from my show. What happened was, three days before we opened, the chef we were going to open with decided he couldn't handle it. He just didn't see the vision we had for the restaurant. So we went into it with no chef. And my sous chef, she was a cook, but hadn't been trained as a sous chef. I went into this basically by myself, and I hadn't worked in a restaurant since I was at Chez Panisse, and that was in 1990. So 20 years. [Rivera laughs.] He's laughing! Don't worry, you're going to get your chance to talk.</p> <p><strong>GR:</strong> I'm laughing because I've opened so many restaurants and I can't imagine opening a restaurant without a chef.</p> <p><strong>JW:</strong> When I was at Chez Panisse, I was a cook. I've had great training and I've done a lot of guest-chef things, but it wasn't the same. So we really went in understaffed, and I was basically a line cook. I was back on the line, had not been on the line for 20 years, and I was working 12 hours a day. For the first four months, I did not take one single day off. I think we would have been okay if we had done 200 covers a day. But we were doing 500 covers a day, and it hasn't really ever changed. We're still doing incredibly well, but it was really overwhelming. That probably went on for about the first month, where we didn't have a chef. We hired another chef and he lasted with us for one week. He couldn't handle it either. He was from Mexico, he was a really good cook, but I think it was just really overwhelming. Then we hired a third chef and he ended up lasting, but he didn't have the palate. It was hard for him to pull it off, but he did last for three months. Then we went looking for somebody in earnest and ended up with—I can take a deep breath now—my right hand.</p> <p><strong>How did you two meet?</strong></p> <p><strong>JW:</strong> We ended up hiring a headhunter, which was a smart move for us. We knew what we wanted. I knew I wanted something fresh and clean and light; I didn't want heavy rice and beans and gloppy cheese. I wanted this style of food that's light and fresh, where people don't go out the door bent over, saying, 'Oh my god, I'm never going to eat Mexican food again.' I didn't want it to be baskets of tortilla chips before they even ate their meal—that's why we give [diners] jicama and cucumber. Something that you would have in Mexico. I always wanted to have Mexican cooks. It was not ever going to be me. I always wanted people who understood the flavors of true Mexican food. And yes, I wanted a modernized version of it.</p> <p><img alt="One%20Year%20-%20Copita-7.jpg" src="http://cdn1.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/1001766/One_20Year_20-_20Copita-7.0.jpg"></p> <p><strong>How was it for you, Gonzalo, coming in? </strong></p> <p><strong>GR: </strong>I loved it. I was born in California, outside of Chico, and the reason I'm a cook is because of my grandma. I used to watch her, and she raised goats just to eat them. Hogs, chickens, she was the one doing the butchering. She has very rustic ways of cooking, so I follow that route with cooking. </p> <p><strong>JW:</strong> He also loves the idea of keeping things fresh too. Tell her about the migrating. </p> <p><strong>GA:</strong> I grew up migrating from Central California all the way up to the Canadian border. I remember picking prunes very well; I loved it. They would give me a buck a bucket. It was a hundred and something degrees outside, but I earned my money. I earned 40 bucks a day. With my memory and my palate, I can identify a lot of stuff if I smell and taste it, and it reminds me of my grandma. Especially our <em>birria</em>. That was something my grandma would make a lot. Joanne now pushes me a lot because of her palate; I've never seen such a great palate ever in my life. When I first made our spit-roasted sauce, she identified every ingredient in that. I was like, wow.</p> <p><strong>JW:</strong> We really do work together to create a dish, and he does a lot on his own. He doesn't need me. But we always taste together to make sure it's kind of the vision that we've always seen for Copita. And Gonzalo was in Mexico City, and worked for a couple of years at <strong>Nemi</strong>.</p> <p><strong>GR: </strong>Nemi is a high-end seafood restaurant in the heart of the city, Polanco, which is the third-wealthiest neighborhood per capita in the world. We shut down a lot for construction, so I got to travel around the country and within Mexico City. It's very rich gastronomically. </p> <p><strong>JW:</strong> One thing that's great about Gonzalo is he knows the regional foods, so we're doing a lot of regional Mexican cooking, which is really exciting. </p> <p><strong>GR:</strong> We just did a Mexico City and surrounding cities menu, which consisted of tacos <em>al pastor</em> from Mexico City, which is very Lebanese-influenced with the shawarma thing. Green chorizo. Puebla, their chocolate mole. Stuff like that. </p> <p><strong>JW:</strong> From the beginning, I always wanted to have green chorizo. When I was out here making those ceviches and working 14-hour days, there was no way I could pull that off. With Gonzalo here, I just say it, we taste it together and it's on the menu. I have a vision, and he's pulled it off. </p> <p><strong>GR:</strong> We feed off each other really well. Things have been good so far, and it's just going to get better and better and better. Especially with the summer coming. </p> <p><strong>JW:</strong> Also, for me, at this point in my life it's been an amazing thing to be able to have the opportunity to do this. Not many people get a chance in their life to change gears. It's been an unbelievable learning experience.</p> <p><img alt="One%20Year%20-%20Copita-16.jpg" src="http://cdn3.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/1001768/One_20Year_20-_20Copita-16.0.jpg"></p> <p><strong>How has the career switch been? Do you like the changes? </strong></p> <p><strong>JW:</strong> I absolutely love it. I still love it, and every single day that I'm not traveling, I come [to Copita]. Recently, we developed these <em>papas bravas</em>, these deep-fried potatoes. We worked on it together, and I had this idea of what I wanted to toss the potatoes in, and then he came up with the [avocado crema] sauce that goes with them. That kind of stuff, I really love. </p> <p><strong>What's surprised you along the way? Any unexpected endeavors? </strong></p> <p><strong>JW:</strong> For me, this is definitely the hardest thing I've ever done. The most challenging, but also the most rewarding. The gratifying thing is seeing how happy we make the people who come here. It's extraordinary. And I think the other thing that has been amazing for me is that I had no clue about my reach. I've been on television for 14 years and I've written 17 cookbooks. I had no clue that people actually really knew so much about my work and loved it so much. They'll come here and tell me, 'I'm not surprised the food is so delicious, and I see you in the food.' Even though it's more of a collaboration, and honestly, it's more Gonzalo than me. Where we are now is because of him. I can finally breathe again. I used to wake up in the middle of the night, with my heart pounding.</p> <p><strong>Anxiety dreams? </strong></p> <p><strong>JW:</strong> Absolutely. And at the same time, you walk in and 500 people are eating lunch. We're opening the doors and people are already waiting. It's still like that.</p> <p><strong>GR:</strong> Today, there was a nice line waiting for us to open. </p> <p><strong>And it's a Wednesday.</strong></p> <p><strong>JW:</strong> And tonight it will be busy. Last weekend, we did over 1,000 covers on Saturday and Sunday. People love us. I'm so happy. And people finally understand what we're doing. At first it was really hard for people to understand. 'Wait a minute, I thought it was Mexican food, where's the rice and beans?' People thought they were going to have big platters of food, and it's never been what we wanted.</p> <p><strong>And you also developed it to be a gluten-free menu?</strong></p> <p><strong>JW:</strong> We are 100 percent gluten-free. But really, Mexican food doesn't use very much flour.</p> <p><strong>GR:</strong> Very little. In the Northern part, yes, because it's more a European influence up there. But down South it's all corn. Maybe for pastries. But where my parents are from, they make <em>pan elote</em>, cornbread. They may add more eggs to it, to make it more of a custard. </p> <p><strong>JW: </strong>We're already thinking of the next recipe, that's why we're looking at each other.</p> <p><strong>GR:</strong> Corn's coming up.</p> <p><strong>JW:</strong> There have been some testing issues. We were making buñuelos because we realized there was demand for them. We were frying the buñuelos that had flour in them in the same fryer as the tortillas, and it's really not right to do. There's still flour in the oil and the fryer. </p> <p><strong>GR:</strong>So there was cross-contamination there. So we looked into it, did research and...</p> <p><strong>JW:</strong> He tried out the recipe, and oh my God.</p> <p><strong>GR:</strong> We used Cup4Cup, a gluten-free flour from Thomas Keller. And it worked out great. We just switched over the cookies as well. These wedding cookies with this awesome Oaxacan chocolate milk shake with a little bit of añejo tequila in there. Very tasty. And no more flour tortillas. So we're 100 percent gluten-free as of a month ago. </p> <p><strong>JW:</strong> We don't even have flour in the kitchen. </p> <p><strong>How has the menu, as a whole, evolved since you opened?</strong></p> <p><strong>JW:</strong> We still have a lot of the same dishes that were on the menu from the beginning, but I think that they're more refined now. I also think that our food is more consistent. That's definitely because of Gonzalo being here. </p> <p><strong>GR:</strong> They're definitely the staples. The chicken tinga, the 24-hour carnitas...</p> <p><strong>JW:</strong> Which people say are the best in the Bay Area. </p> <p><strong>GR:</strong> I changed it to the way we do it in Michoacán. It's the state known for its carnitas. </p> <p><strong>JW: </strong>Are you bragging about your province?</p> <p><strong>GR:</strong> I always brag about it. We finish it off with a Mexican Coke at the end to give it a little caramelized flavor and beautiful color. And we use orange zest and bay leaf.<br> <br><strong>JW:</strong> Another thing that's changed is our tacos were a little bit more traditional in the beginning. Now, we do things like fried pork-belly tacos that are out of this world, with a pipian sauce. </p> <p><strong>GR:</strong> It's my play on the campechano, which is a cooked pork with pork rinds on top. Here, you have beautifully braised pork belly that's deep fried so it's nice and succulent, but crispy on the outside. We brine it as well, so it gives it a nice flavor.</p> <p><strong>JW:</strong> Another one that's on there, a tribute to my upbringing in New England, are the fried-oyster tacos. We're using the fireplace a lot for our salsas that we make. We change those salsas up, but one that we're doing right now uses tomatoes, garlic, and chilies. We roast it in the fireplace on the coals, and then we make a salsa out of it that is delicious. In the summer we'll roast elote, the corn. Gonzalo made it the other night; we're trying it out. </p> <p><strong>What do you put on the corn?</strong></p> <p><strong>GR: </strong>We make a chipotle crema, with sour cream and chipotle. We make our chipotle here.</p> <p><strong>JW:</strong> We make everything. Chorizo, chipotle, every sauce, everything. Our tortillas, everything. </p> <p><strong>GR:</strong> We use La Palma's masa. There masa is probably the best in the Bay Area.</p> <p><strong>JW:</strong> One thing we've never veered away from, and the thing we have felt from the very beginning, is always using the best ingredients. And I know that people write that on their menus and I just feel like that is a given with restaurants now, but we use the best fish we can possibly get. It's all sustainable. The best ingredients from the best farms. Going to the farmer's market. And yes, that does cost a little more, and maybe that's my Chez Panisse background, but I feel like you taste that on the plate. I really feel like about two months ago is when we really reached our stride. I think it's funny to be reviewed for a restaurant a month out. I think it's crazy. It honestly took me one month of working here before I realized we could see the water from here. That's how busy we were. </p> <p><strong>GR:</strong> For such a small space in terms square footage, this place is rockin'. We have 58 seats here and we're doing 500 covers a day on the weekends. Even Fridays. It's a rockin' little place.</p> <p><strong>JW:</strong> Another thing that we changed a lot in here is soundproofing. When we opened, we didn't realize what all that tequila was going to do to people, and it was really noisy. In February, we closed for a whole week and took out the entire ceiling and put in a new ceiling for sound. We haven't just made improvements with the food, but with the interior as well. We've also tried to constantly improve our service, and that's one thing a lot of people comment on. </p> <p><strong>When you first opened, were you actively reading reviews from critics? What was your takeaway from those early reviews? </strong></p> <p><strong>JW:</strong> I did read the reviews. Especially in the beginning: we did get a lot of press, and people really did like our place. But then there were also some that I read and I'm like, "Ohh." And of course, I take it personally. But I definitely read them. For sure.</p> <p><strong>GR:</strong> And you have to react.</p> <p><strong>JW:</strong> And we know what we're doing wrong. I think we do. Right? We talk about it. We know. I don't know. </p> <p><strong>Do you read Yelp reviews?</strong></p> <p><strong>JW:</strong> I decided to quit. Is that bad for me to say?</p> <p><strong>No.</strong></p> <p><strong>JW:</strong> I decided to quit because, well first of all, on the Yelp page they highlight that 'Joanne Weir is a sexy, red-haired vixen.' And it's huge on the page. It's really a nice compliment, I love it. But I don't really see myself that way. Then, there are also the people who don't understand us. What bothers me are the people who leave five-star reviews and then get filtered out. I don't get that. But what do you think, Gonzalo? You read them.</p> <p><strong>GR:</strong> I do everyday because I like to know what our guests are thinking and if they're loving the food. They're loving the flavors. But I like to read them so I can be ahead of the game and so I can adjust my game if I need to. </p> <p><strong>JW:</strong> I take every one personally.</p> <p><strong>GR:</strong> I don't take it personally. I know we're doing a beautiful thing here, and we're educating people on what traditional Mexican food is, with modern presentation. And we're having fun, because 99 percent of the people who come through here, they thank us. They thank us for such a great experience.</p> <p><strong>JW:</strong> And you know what else? People stay. They stay for hours. And stay and stay and stay. Three or four hours, and eat. I'm not kidding. </p> <p><strong>GR:</strong> We had a couple that came up to the bar, and they rode in on their bikes. They just ordered tequila and papas bravas. Then they added the tortilla soup...</p> <p><strong>JW:</strong> Maybe we'll have some tacos...</p> <p><strong>GR:</strong> Then they ordered tacos, then pueblos. They ended up having five, six courses. Each dish is a progression. </p> <p><strong>JW:</strong> Then it was dark, and they had to ride their bikes back to the city. And they decided they were staying here because they loved it that much. And they rode home in the dark. </p> <p><strong>Do you have things in mind for year two? Goals or things you want to do?</strong></p> <p><strong>JW:</strong> We want to do more regional stuff. But what else? Well. Maybe we can't talk about it. [Laughs.] She said with a twinkle in her eye. Is that what you were thinking?</p> <p><strong>What are you two thinking? </strong></p> <p><strong>GR:</strong> [Laughs.] We just really want the Bay Area to get to know Copita. Because I think we're doing something great here with our cuisine. We're educating people. A lot of people come in here with the misconception of Mexican food as Tex-Mex.</p> <p><strong>JW:</strong> And when Mexican people come in, they say, "These are the true flavors. This is the best Mexican food we've had in the United States."</p> <p><strong>GR:</strong> I get the chills just thinking about it, because I make it a point to visit these tables, and I need to know what you think of our cuisine.</p> <p><strong>JW:</strong> I had a guy one day who was sitting out front. He had the carnitas and said, 'These are the best carnitas I've ever had.' He was from Mexico City. I went out a little bit later and he had a second plate. He ordered them twice. We had a big table out there, all people from Mexico. We had been here six months, and they were saying, these are the true flavors of Mexico.</p> <p><strong>GR:</strong> It's a great compliment. And we try to do things that nobody else is doing.</p> <p><strong>JW:</strong> How did we do with our play on our future? Were we good at avoiding it?</p> <p><strong>There's a lot of mystery going on here. So you're scheming about some other things.</strong></p> <p><strong>JW:</strong> We're scheming. That's really good. Scheming.</p> <p><strong>Anything you can share?</strong></p> <p><strong>JW:</strong> We really can't yet. Keep an eye out for Copita. It's funny, I've had so many people email me or come in here and say, 'Why don't you open one in Miami? Why don't you open one in Paris? Why don't you open one in New York? Oh, you'd kill it in LA.' It's funny how people say that to us all the time. We're not going to Paris.</p> <p><strong>Not Paris, but maybe San Francisco?</strong></p> <p><strong>GR:</strong> Oh, that would be great. That would be awesome.</p> <p><strong>JW:</strong> We're scheming. <br></p>
https://sf.eater.com/2013/5/29/6431885/copitas-joanne-weir-and-gonzalo-riveraChloe Schildhause2013-05-01T03:25:26-07:002013-05-01T03:25:26-07:00Radio Africa and Kitchen's Eskender Aseged
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<p><em>Welcome to <a href="http://sf.eater.com/tags/one-year-in">One Year In</a>, a feature in which Eater sits down for a chat with the chefs and owners of restaurants celebrating their one-year anniversary.</em></p> <p><img alt="Screen%20Shot%202013-05-01%20at%2010.22.57%20AM.png" src="http://cdn3.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/1014372/Screen_20Shot_202013-05-01_20at_2010.22.57_20AM.0.png" width="497" height="342"><br><em><span class="credit">[Photos: <a href="http://www.aubriepick.com">Aubrie Pick</a>]</span></em></p> <p>Longtime pop-up turned restaurant <a href="http://sf.eater.com/tags/radio-africa-kitchen"><strong>Radio Africa & Kitchen</strong></a> celebrated its one-year anniversary this month, and owner and chef <strong>Eskender Aseged</strong> has much to say about the transition from temporary restaurant to neighborhood fixture. A brief history of Radio Africa & Kitchen: Aseged moved to San Francisco in 1987, starting out in the restaurant industry as a waiter at Cafe Majestic. He cooked with <strong>Jeremiah Tower</strong>, <strong>Daniel Patterson</strong>, and <strong>Joyce Goldstein</strong>, among other leading local chefs, before starting Radio Africa as a pop-up in 2004. The first Radio Africa dinners were held at his home on York Street in the Mission, and later expanded to <strong>Velo Rouge</strong>, <strong>Coffee Bar</strong>, and even a one-night stint in New York. Eater sat down with Aseged to talk about his first year in business and his community involvement in the Bayview.</p> <p><strong>You've been open for a year now. How has it been? What has surprised you?</strong></p> <p>The first six months were the most difficult part. The transition from a pop-up to my own real first-time restaurant was kind of tricky. At first it looked really easy, because I was moving around for seven or eight years with the pop-up. When I was doing that, it was very easy in that I had no attachment to anything else. To the employees, to the buildings, to anything. I was really an offhand chef. When we moved from a pop-up to here, it should have been easier because now I have my own kitchen, my own office, my own tables—all of that was really great and exciting. But the fact that it's busy all the time is a challenge. [Laughs.] That was a little bit surprising for me, how much work it was. </p> <p>The other unexpected factor was moving from the Mission, which was the main place I was doing my pop-up, to the Bayview, which is completely different. Entirely different kinds of clientele. It was a lot of up and down the first six months. But the last six months have been really great. Especially 2013. For the first three weeks of January, I took a vacation and I went to Israel. Every January, I travel to a different country. I took those three weeks off, which were very necessary for me to sort of rethink, re-evaluate myself, re-evaluate the restaurant and how it's going to be. I learned so much; Israel is a great food country. When I came back, we were very busy here. </p> <p><strong>Busier than you had been?</strong></p> <p>Yeah, especially in the catering department. So many events, left and right. Now we're settled and are just doing what we love to do, which is cook without any restrictions. Without trying to label anything at all. Like soul food, or black food. [Laughs.] I just want to do what I used to do, which is food inspired by old recipes from Africa and other countries. Especially Ethiopia, Egypt, Algeria, and then touching a bit on areas like Turkey and the southern Mediterranean, such as Spain, France, or even Italy. The first six months was kind of trying to find our groove, and the last six months have been trying to fine-tune. Trying to casualize the menu a bit more, which is key for this neighborhood. Although our food is really well-priced compared to what similar restaurants offer, I still feel like it's not reasonable enough for the neighborhood. We're working towards that without compromising the quality of the food, which is very difficult with the ingredients we use, such as organic produce, fish, and so on.</p> <p><strong>Do you find that the people who come here live in the neighborhood, or are they mostly from other parts of the city?</strong></p> <p>It's a mix of people now. More and more people that live here are trying it out, but the majority are coming from all over. Marin, San Mateo, Oakland, Berkeley. We're still a destination restaurant, and the reason is very simple. The reason is the type of food we serve. It's a modern African take that is simple, organic and not too overwhelming, so I can see why it attracts other neighborhoods versus the area. The area, I think, still thinks it's too foreign. We're not frying anything, we're not doing hamburgers. We're experimenting, we're thinking about incorporating those dishes, but we don't know. We tried doing fried chicken for example, but I don't want to sell out. We're not trying to become just another soul-food restaurant. However, we want to cater to what people want. We're trying a couple dishes that are very good, like a nice organic fried chicken breast. It's not going to be served every day, but we may have it as a special. We want to educate people. You don't always have to eat fried chicken and French fries. There are a lot more tasty dishes out there.</p> <p><strong>How has your food changed since your pop-up days?</strong></p> <p>The menu's a little bit bigger. I would say it's a little bit more refined, but minimal too. In the earlier days, [my work] was based in the frustration of not being able to open a restaurant. I was working in this fancy restaurant, and they had so much money, but they never really cared for [customers]. I was anti-restaurant. But now I have one. [Laughs.] The irony of life. But then you realize it's not as simple to do a pop-up forever. A pop-up is great as a stepping stone, but it's not long-term.</p> <p><img alt="One%20Year-Radio%20Africa-8.jpg" src="http://cdn2.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/1014374/One_20Year-Radio_20Africa-8.0.jpg"></p> <p><strong>What would you say is better about having a restaurant? And what aspects of the pop-up do you miss?</strong></p> <p>For the most part, I like having the restaurant. It's more sustainable, more calming. You can just focus on your art, which is the cooking, versus the other logistics. Because 80 percent of the time what you are doing with the pop-up is the logistics. Getting the ingredients, finding a place to cook them, transporting your plates and pans and glasses. Here, at least, I have time, and I really believe great productivity is all about time. If you have the time and a relaxed atmosphere, I think you can create whatever you imagine it to be. What I miss about the pop-up is the independence, and not having to worry if it's too fancy. Now I have be conscious of what to put on the menu and what not to put, mainly based on the neighborhood. Sometimes I don't put something on the menu because it sounds fancy.</p> <p><strong>Can you give an example?</strong></p> <p>The use of uni for example. If I'm doing a shellfish dish, I use uni. We use a lot of shiso, which I love. Nettles, which grow wild in my garden. All this stuff, we don't mention too much because then we sound "downtown." The word "downtown" means "fancy" to me. When I did the pop-up, I just used whatever I could find, and there were no worries. I did the pop-up at Coffee Bar for nearly three years, and it was really a great location. Most of the people who came there were young, affluent people. The average age were maybe 25 to 35. Mostly, about 80 percent, women. Professional women. We used slightly fancier items, like duck, Maine scallops, crayfish. Things I don't use here because of the price point. What I miss about being a pop-up is the fact that you can put anything you want [on the menu]. That was the idea.</p> <p><strong>Are there dishes you created at the pop-up that are now mainstays on the menu here? Items that will never leave the menu?</strong></p> <p>The leg of lamb dish, cut loin-style, grilled. With seasonal vegetables. That was the favorite for people, and it's still here. The edamame hummus comes back occasionally, but we don't put it on the menu all the time. And the smoked trout baccala. In fact, that's the most popular item. </p> <p><strong>Who do you cater for? And do they make special off-menu requests?</strong></p> <p>I would say about half of the catering is lunch, like downtown tech offices. We create a special menu for them, and usually, we do Ethiopian dishes. Chicken, lamb, injera, all that. And then, of course, some of the menu is off [the restaurant's] menu. A good one-third of [our catering] is for schools, fundraising. We work with lots of non-profit organizations. And then there are other corporate venues. When we were a pop-up, we used to do two to three weddings a year. This year we did one wedding. </p> <p><strong>Do you see a lot of people coming to the restaurant who were regulars at your pop-up?</strong></p> <p>Absolutely. Especially those who missed me a lot, because we were kind of inconvenient. The location and the time, not being open every day. </p> <p><strong>You gave a talk and cooking demo at Macy's earlier this year, which is where you saw your mentor Joyce Goldstein give a talk when you were first moved to San Francisco. Have any other events occurred during the year that made you think, <em>I can't believe this is happening?</em></strong></p> <p>Absolutely, because that's kind of a cheesy, wild moment. I remember when I was watching Joyce twenty years ago, I was like God, I could never reach that. But I realized that if you work every day and learn and get the information, anything is possible. In fact, one of my main dreams during the pop-up wasn't only for a restaurant, it was actually telling any artist, musician, scientist, that you don't need a box to show your passion. You can produce anywhere. Very often we're stuck with this boxed stuff, like a university has to have a building. A fence. It doesn't have to. </p> <p><strong>What are your goals for the year ahead?</strong></p> <p>I would like to be open every day. Ideally, I want this restaurant to be a neighborhood restaurant, where it's open day and night. Casualize it more. Because it's a great space, we're developing some casual foods now. Eventually, by the summer or fall, I want to have some music going on. An acoustic trio or jazz. Because the neighborhood is happy, which is a blessing. They're throwing bigger parties in here, birthday parties, gatherings, school fundraisers in here. So there are a lot of little activities going on. </p> <p><strong>What advice would you give to people starting pop-ups, or even in the position you were in when you first moved to San Francisco? </strong></p> <p>There are two things about doing a pop-up. The first thing is that you've got to love what you're doing and not worry about the results. Enjoy the process, even if it means sometimes failing. I did have some failure moments, but you have to be humorous and you have to be humble. Number two is stamina. Stamina is so important because I think many people jump into wanting to make money right away, and then they get discouraged. We didn't make money the first couple of years, really. A labor of love, they call it. Say yes to every situation. No kitchen, no problem. No water, no problem. Bring a bucket of water. There's one other important thing: create something people can't find anywhere else or can't make by themselves. Something special. That's why when we had a pop-up we never cooked chicken or beef. It had to be some kind of beautiful wild fish, or quail, or duck, lamb, goat. All kinds of vegetables people can't find anywhere else. One time, we even brought camel's cheese.</p> <p><strong>Really? I've never had camel cheese.</strong></p> <p>It's good for you. It's expensive, and you can't get it very often. But, the point is that you really have to intrigue. We used to call it an event. It's not a restaurant; it's eventful. You have to get excited: "Oh, look at what he's doing." We used to do a whole lamb or a whole goat. The whole big fish wrapped in a banana leaf. That visual aspect of it. It's kind of an art show. </p>
https://sf.eater.com/2013/5/1/6448009/radio-africa-and-kitchens-eskender-asegedChloe Schildhause2013-04-24T07:10:59-07:002013-04-24T07:10:59-07:00A16's Penelope Grill on Pizza, Waiting, and Classic Rockers
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<p><em>This is <a href="http://sf.eater.com/tags/the-gatekeepers">The Gatekeepers</a>, in which Eater roams the city meeting the fine ladies and gentlemen that stand between you and some of San Francisco's hottest tables.</em></p> <p><img alt="Gatekeeper-A16-5.jpg" src="http://cdn3.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/1014394/Gatekeeper-A16-5.0.jpg"><br><em><span class="credit">[Photos: <a href="http://www.aubriepick.com">Aubrie Pick</a>]</span></em></p> <p>Since opening in 2004, the Naples-influenced <a href="http://sf.eater.com/places/a16"><strong>A16</strong> </a>has gained a strong reputation for its wood-fired Neapolitan pizzas, freshly-made pastas and wine program. Owner and wine director <strong>Shelley Lindgren</strong>'s nearly decade-old restaurant is one of the most-booked restaurants in the city, and it's seen a slew of notable chefs in that time, such as <strong>Nate Appleman</strong>, <strong>Liza Shaw</strong> and current executive chef (and <a href="http://sf.eater.com/archives/2013/02/14/hot_chef_day_2013_finals_maya_erickson_vs_chris_thompson.php">Eater readers' pick for the hottest male chef in SF</a>) <strong>Chris Thompson</strong>. Eater recently met up with A16's reservations and customer-relations manager, <strong>Penelope Grill</strong>, to talk about the waits, the pizzas, and their crayon selection. </p> <p><strong>7:30 p.m on a Saturday night, what's the wait for a table?</strong> It's all over the map. We have about a third of the restaurant reserved for walk-ins, and it can be anywhere from 10 minutes to 2 hours. As long as people are flexible, we usually can find something pretty quickly. </p> <p><strong>Any advice on how to make the wait shorter?</strong> As long as they're flexible and here to have fun, things come up all the time. Our bar can move really quickly, our chef's counter is all for walk-ins. So as long as they're flexible and are willing to sit where we have availability. Technically, we can't do anything to make the wait shorter, but they can. </p> <p><strong>Do you ever get people who make negotiations for a table?</strong> Definitely. I've seen that. But it's always a really nice gesture. Our hosts are all really great people and I think when you have twenty sets of hungry eyes staring all around you, no one's going to get to jump the front of the list. It's not worth a $100 bill to have the other people around you feel like they've been taken advantage of. </p> <p><strong>In the three years you've been here, what's the most outrageous request you've heard?</strong> Oh, we've had some funny ones. I think my favorite one that I was actually able to accommodate was we had a famous older singer visit, and he was very insistent that he have a Diet Coke. We don't carry Diet Coke, but I went next door and got it from him. I didn't think it was worth putting up a fight. He's a funny one. And then there are some children who ask for a better selection of crayon colors, which I should probably work on accommodating. We only have primary colors.</p> <p><strong>At least you have more than one color.</strong> There you go. I like that attitude. </p> <p><strong>Who are some of your favorite customers?</strong> All of our regulars are wonderful people. Lunch regulars who come to our bar two or three days a week. They constantly have great travel stories and make us all laugh, but we have such a great neighborhood presence and people who just walk here and might bring their families, or just come in by themselves and have pizza and wine at the bar. So, great neighborhood presence for sure. </p> <p><strong>And you used to work with <a href="http://sf.eater.com/archives/2012/12/21/rich_tables_nicole_conrardy_on_the_importance_of_being_earnest.php">Nicole Conrardy</a>, the maître d' at Rich Table?</strong> Yes, she trained me as a host. One of our hosts has been here since the night that we opened. So, nine years. And she trained Nicole, and Nicole trained me, and she is so funny. I miss her. She's our little jewelry maker. We've had two jewelry-making hosts. One of our hosts is a photographer. We have a writer. All of our hosts are fabulous artists and human beings. Dancers. All across the board.</p> <p><img alt="Gatekeeper-A16-11.jpg" src="http://cdn2.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/1014396/Gatekeeper-A16-11.0.jpg"></p> <p><strong>I worked on Chestnut Street in 2007, and I remember the exciting rumor on the street at the time was that Jake Gyllenhaal and Reese Witherspoon ate here.</strong> Oh, that was before my time, but I do remember that story. </p> <p><strong>Have you been starstruck since working here? </strong> It's funny, we'll all get excited about people in the restaurant industry that come in, and feel sort of starstruck by them. But I'm a big classic-rock fan and we have a lot of really great musicians and rock stars in here. So I always get excited, but I've been able to keep my cool. I've never dropped red wine on anyone's head or anything. [Laughs.]</p> <p><strong>What's your favorite item on the menu?</strong> Oh, that's so hard. I love our pizzas. I lived in Italy and would take the train to Naples to just go eat pizza. So that was a big point in working here for me, how much I love Neapolitan-style pizza. I think our pizzas are so well done and so authentic. God, I don't even know if I have a favorite pizza. I love our bianca pizza and our margherita. And desserts; I have a huge sweet tooth. Our pastry chef kills it. Oh, and our salumi is excellent. Our chef is really focused on curing. It's always awesome. </p> <p><strong>Do you have advice for other Gatekeepers out there? </strong> What I've learned from managing is the importance of your staff. Of showing appreciation and setting the right examples. We couldn't do anything without our host team. They're so fabulous and the anchor of the restaurant. So I would say fostering and appreciating a great staff. Enjoying what you're doing and having fun with the staff and guests. A positive spirit is contagious. And repeating and remembering names. It makes a big difference.</p>
https://sf.eater.com/2013/4/24/6448043/a16s-penelope-grill-on-pizza-waiting-and-classic-rockersChloe Schildhause2013-04-17T05:14:14-07:002013-04-17T05:14:14-07:00Talking Burgers with Joe Obegi of Joe's Cable Car
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<p><em><span class="credit">[Photos: <a href="http://www.aubriepick.com">Aubrie Pick</a>]</span></em></p> <p>Founded in 1965, <strong><a href="http://sf.eater.com/tags/joes-cable-car">Joe's Cable Car</a></strong> is one of the oldest places in San Francisco to grab a burger. Originally just a cable car that served burgers to-go, the Excelsior establishment soon evolved into a sit-down restaurant stuffed to the gills with neon signs, twinkling lights, and large floral bouquets reminiscent of funeral arrangements. <strong>Joe Obegi</strong>, a native Armenian, has worked there since the beginning, and took over as owner in 1968. In 2008, the restaurant's popularity underwent a renaissance thanks to human tiki drink <strong>Guy Fieri</strong>, who featured it on his show <em> Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives</em>. Obegi had mixed feelings about the experience, but admits that it did boost his business. Now that the hype has died down a bit, we dropped by to chat with the old-school burger legend. </p> <p><strong>When you moved to San Francisco, what made you want to own a burger place?</strong> I first worked here as a manager during my college days. Back then, there was no phony, imitation [burger]. Anywhere you went, you could have a decent burger. That's one thing that bothers me about the fast-food industry. It should not be called a burger. They make it taste like a burger, it looks a bit like a burger, but it's not a burger. And this is why I emphasize as much as I can that we serve ground steak. People call it a burger because it is ground, but I wish they would see it as ground steak. </p> <p><strong>So when you first opened, fast-food competition wasn't a problem?</strong> No, it wasn't a problem. There was no phony product. But the prices, compared to back in the '70s, they have gone up. They've tripled. Everything is so expensive that competition, especially from the fast-food industry and the big grocery chains, the price doesn't matter. So they have to cheat. And they make a profit. But they're hurting everybody else. </p> <p><strong>For you, what makes a great burger?</strong> The beef. I have nice people coming in here repeatedly because they are educated, and they tell me that my price is very reasonable. Anywhere you go, you have to pay for a better product, whether it's shoes, a T-shirt, or whatever you buy. </p> <p><strong>Where does your steak come from?</strong> We get it from the Midwest. We are using the best meat, from IBP [Iowa Beef Processors, Inc.] <em>Editor's note: IBP <a href="http://www.livestockweekly.com/papers/01/10/11/whlpeterson1.asp">was acquired by Tyson Foods in 2001</a>.</em></p> <p><strong>How often do you get beef shipped in?</strong> We get it two or three times a week. But now they put it in a bag and suck the air out, so it can be stored for two weeks. It's better than the freezer. That's no problem there. Our meat has the marble. White marble. That's your flavor. That's the sign and the true flavor. You cannot have steak without marble, because it's not going to taste good or have any flavor. To get that is [a] choice; you have to pay more. People look at the price accordingly. If they want to buy cheap stuff, okay. But what bothers me is it's unfair to ignore the product and what you're buying, and just talk about prices. Through college, I'd order a loaf of bread, a cube of butter. Sometimes cheese. Eat it and be quiet. When I got paid, I'd go eat steak. One time I bought a TV dinner. It looked so delicious on the picture, frozen, right? I was tempted, so I took one, put it in the oven, followed instructions. When I got it out of the oven, it was different than in the picture. It stunk. It went straight out of the oven and into the garbage. I couldn't even touch it.</p> <p><img alt="BurgerWeek-JoesCableCar-1.jpg" src="http://cdn2.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/1015964/BurgerWeek-JoesCableCar-1.0.jpg"></p> <p><strong>What did you study in college?</strong> I started to do computer [studies], but I stopped because I couldn't afford it. So I took this job and ended up in the restaurant business. </p> <p><strong>Over the years, I'm sure you've fostered some regulars.</strong> We get them from all over the Bay Area. As far as two hours. We get them from Stockton, and then from L.A. And also all over Europe. Last week we had a couple from London and they were complaining [because] they stayed at the Fairmont, and they said, "How come the people at the Fairmont don't recommend this?" Because their friends in London said, "Make sure you go to Joe's." And they were very happy. We get them from China, Japan. You name it. Australia. There is no country that hasn't been here. We were written up in European magazines, and still people say, "Joe, you should be having people out the door." And it is not. Because of the economy. Because I'm not downtown. I had a customer who use to work for Hewlett-Packard. I met him two or three years ago. He had just lost his job after I don't know how many years. He stopped by a few weeks ago on a Saturday. I was busy seating people, but he talked to me, and talked and talked. He said he found an outstanding burger and it's cheaper than [mine]. No comment. You know what he did before he left? </p> <p><strong>What?</strong> He ordered one to go. That's why it bothered me. If you want to talk price, talk price. But don't argue quality. It's choice, it's fresh and cooked to order. The other thing that bothers me is the well-done people. How do you eat your steak?</p> <p><strong>Medium-rare.</strong> That's the right way to do it. Well-done is for the birds. There's nothing left in it. When I was a kid and got sick, the one thing we didn't want to do was eat. You lose your appetite. My grandma used to come to me with the steaks and say, "Honey, I know you're not hungry. Don't feel like eating. But I want you to chew this." She would cut a piece of steak and I chew, chew, chew. Spit it out. She gives me another piece. This is your vitamins. When you take a well-done piece of steak, it's like chewed-up beef. Dry. The flavor is gone. I try to tell as many people as I can.</p> <p><strong>What's your opinion on cheeseburgers?</strong> I don't like cheese that much. I love cheese on the side. I love cold cheese. The minute you melt it it becomes, for me, I feel like it's heavy. Like butter. I ask people to please taste the meat before they put on any mustard or ketchup. And then if you want to put ketchup or mustard, it's your say. If you want to ruin it, ruin it.</p> <p><strong>So when you have a burger, there are no condiments?</strong> We do mayonnaise. Lettuce, tomatoes, onions, pickles, it's on the side. </p> <p><strong>What's your personal topping preference?</strong> I put one leaf of lettuce and some Roma tomato. I don't want to interrupt the meat too much. People ask for extra tomato, I give them extra tomato, whatever they want. But purposely—not financially, for the sake of the flavor—I minimize the lettuce and tomato. You can't beat it. The best form is plain. We have a diet burger. It's the same, but with no bread. People just love it. </p> <p><strong>Are you into bread?</strong> I love bread. Any kind of bread. I like the baguette, the French bread. But too many ingredients, and it gets lost. I work hard, I serve good food all day long. I'm not going to go eat mediocre food. </p> <p><strong>How often do you actually eat burgers?</strong> It's embarrassing, because I eat them five to six times a week. Everyday I come here and have a burger. Once in a while I'll have an avocado with oil and vinegar, salted. Again, simple.</p> <p><strong>Just straight up?</strong> Straight. </p> <p><strong>So that's your one day off from a burger meal.</strong> Yes, but I still enjoy my burger. </p> <p><strong>That's good. Do you eat burgers anywhere else in the city?</strong> Are you kidding me? [Laughs.] </p> <p><strong>How much steak do you guys go through in a week?</strong> Maybe 150 pounds. We we're on television back in '08 and God saved me because the show [<em>Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives</em>], it [aired] three or four times a week. Sometimes two times a day, On the weekends, three times. There were traffic jams. We were literally choking.</p> <p><strong>Was that the busiest you've seen this place?</strong> Oh God, yeah. Busiest ever. I counted the best day we ever did; in this small space, we served 700 people. We were packed all the time. Rushing all day. I was lucky I was able to get that many people. We had 27 employees. Now we're down to 17. It's good to have those extra people, otherwise it would have been a big mess.</p> <p><strong>So you were well-prepared for the impending rush.</strong> I was lucky to get enough people. It's a tough business. It's not unusual for people to tell me this is the best burger they've ever had. Some of them are fifty years old, sixty. Because it's just not available. Restaurants, they're eliminating the red meat because it's hard to compete. So that's where we are. Are you hungry yet?</p>
https://sf.eater.com/2013/4/17/6450369/talking-burgers-with-joe-obegi-of-joes-cable-carChloe Schildhause2013-04-03T05:18:16-07:002013-04-03T05:18:16-07:00The Mission Bowling Club Team on Private Parties, Grandparents, and Hitting 300
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<p><em>Welcome to <a href="http://sf.eater.com/tags/one-year-in">One Year In</a>, a feature in which Eater sits down for a chat with the chefs and owners of restaurants celebrating their one-year anniversary.</em></p> <p><img alt="One%20Year-Mission%20Bowling-2.jpg" src="http://cdn1.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/1019822/One_20Year-Mission_20Bowling-2.0.jpg"><br><em><span class="credit">[Photos: <a href="http://www.aubriepick.com">Aubrie Pick</a>]</span></em></p> <p>Aiming to devise a bowling alley devoid of bad lighting, mediocre food and claw machines stuffed with unachievable plush animals, the former <strong>Mini Bar</strong> team of <strong>Sommer Peterson</strong> and <strong>Molly Bradshaw</strong> opened <a href="http://sf.eater.com/tags/mission-bowling-club">Mission Bowling Club</a> in March 2012. In their quest to create a six-lane bowling palace with quality food and drinks that was SF's first in more than four decades, the duo teamed up with <strong>Mission Street Food</strong> and <strong>Commonwealth</strong> impresario <strong>Anthony Myint</strong> to develop their menu, and sought a special liquor-license dispensation from the city. Eater recently met with Peterson and Bradshaw, as well as executive chef <strong>Chris Kiyuna</strong> and event planner <strong>Jillian Horn</strong>, to talk about their first year and their plans for the year ahead. </p> <p><strong>When you opened a year ago, what were your expectations for the space?</strong></p> <p><strong>Sommer Peterson:</strong> Well, we thought [the space] was huge, and now we feel like it's really small. We get pretty crowded. Overall, we're pretty happy with how we have our restaurant and it's really its own entity. You can still walk in and just grab a drink at the bar, like you're at a neighborhood bar. With the bowling, everyone can hear and see all the action going on, but it's still its own little area. It's nice having it compartmentalized, though we wish we had more lanes. We thought six was perfect, but we realized that there are a lot of people in this town who want to go bowling, and they pretty much all want to do it at the same time. Jillian wants something separate for private events.</p> <p><strong>Jillian Horn: </strong>The demand has been really exciting. </p> <p><strong>Chris Kiyuna:</strong> I expected to be surprised. I've helped with other openings, and you always have your ideas of how people will perceive a conventional restaurant. When you walk in the door here, you see the bowling lanes, it's a big space, there's a bar. There's just so many ways that people can read the space. None of us had worked together, either, so I was expecting to be surprised.</p> <p><strong>SP:</strong> We just held hands and jumped in. Here we go! It's funny, still, when people come here for the very first time. They walk in and they're like, "What do I do? I'm here!" or "Is this really a bowling alley?" We ask, "You want to bowl? You want a cocktail? Come on in!" </p> <p><strong>Molly Bradshaw:</strong> I think that's what's fun. There are people who still walk in here and are amazed. "How is this hidden in the middle of the Mission?" And I'm like, are we really that hidden? I guess we are. We're kind of tucked away.</p> <p><strong>CK:</strong> When people ask for directions and I say 17th and South Van Ness, they stop and I say "You know the gas station?" and they're like, "Oh, yeah, the gas station!"</p> <p><strong>You mentioned being surprised. What sort of things have surprised you? </strong></p> <p><strong>MB:</strong> I think we all can say we've never owned a bowling alley before. [Laughs.] The mechanics of it and just working in a bowling environment were surprising, but awesome. We all came in with different backgrounds, and because of that, we were able to tackle it and thrive. </p> <p><strong>SP:</strong> We didn't anticipate needing a full-time mechanic for only six lanes. But there's a lot of work that goes into maintaining the lanes, and minor things that can stop everything for five minutes. Somebody needs to know how to get a pin jam out. So we've learned a lot about the technical aspect of bowling. Whereas in our planning, we just thought, bowling is awesome! And it is. </p> <p>The biggest and best surprise has been the demand for our events. Bringing in Gillian full-time, and now an entire team under her, has been great. We knew people would want to have parties here, but we didn't quite grasp how much of a need there is in San Francisco for people to have a great place where they can really do something fun and interactive. A place that's not just a bar.</p> <p><strong>JH:</strong> The guests can really feel like they can have ownership of the venue when they're here for their private parties. The size definitely works to our advantage, in that sense. It's been nice how many different walks of life come in for parties. Big companies, small companies, birthdays, engagements. All different types of celebrations. Everybody can find something here. It's unique. There's so many different ways to cater to each guest. </p> <p><strong>SP: </strong>Yeah, from a two-lane party for 12 people, to a whole shebang for 200 people, where we make them speciality cocktails and they can bring in banners. Like the Espolon tequila event. We had Day of the Dead face-painters, photographers showing their images on the big screen with our projector, live art, painting on the patio. It was like a mini-festival. Chris put awesome food together, a huge spread. It's fun. </p> <p><strong>CK:</strong> That's one of my biggest surprises, is people eating with pins crashing and screaming in the background.</p> <p><strong>SP:</strong> And what they want to eat while they bowl. </p> <p><strong>CK:</strong> Yeah, it's been really interesting. We opened with a menu that we thought was the basic mindset of what people will eat at a bowling alley. And now I feel like we've really pushed the envelope, and it's a restaurant as well. </p> <p><strong>SP:</strong> Now you're in a restaurant with six lanes. And the restaurant has really taken off. Chris has done a wonderful job.</p> <p><strong>JH:</strong> In the beginning, we wouldn't have guessed that guests would come here to eat. They would only have reservations for bowling. Now they're like "I don't have one, I just want to eat." It's flipped a bit, and [the restaurant] has become a destination in its own right.</p> <p><strong>So once people realized you had a great menu...</strong></p> <p><strong>SP:</strong> They were surprised by how great the food was. And they're like, "Oh, I can just come here for dinner?" And we're like, "Yeah, of course." And now they are. But I think we had to change that perception in the very beginning, because people just thought bowling alley. </p> <p><strong>And bowling alleys are associated with gross nachos.</strong></p> <p><strong>CK:</strong> Nothing wrong with gross nachos! [Laughs.] </p> <p><strong>SP:</strong> There's always a time and a place. We love bowling. We love that feeling and that experience. But how this whole idea came to be was that we felt you shouldn't have to be punished in order to go bowling. The horrible fluorescent lighting, the gross food.</p> <p><strong>That lighting. That's the worst part.</strong></p> <p><strong>SP:</strong> I know, it's punishing. You walk in and you're like, "Am I really yellow and gaunt? Oh no, it's the fluorescence." But yeah, you don't have to be punished to do this. You can be comfortable, have amazing food, great cocktails, local craft beers, and a great experience.</p> <p><strong>Food-wise, how did you decide what you wanted to have on the menu and what you thought was appropriate for what people crave when they bowl?</strong></p> <p><strong>SP:</strong> Now that we're offering entrees, we're trying to deliver them up there [at the lanes]. Since people can't really eat them while bowling, we have a little designated communal area. We want people to sit and enjoy their meal.</p> <p><strong>CK:</strong> Snacks have become a regular part of most menus now, so it's not too much of a departure to have finger foods and quick bites of that nature. It's a natural extension.</p> <p><strong>SP:</strong> Smaller bites. The fried chicken, people love to get and share. What else?</p> <p><strong>CK:</strong> The mushroom fritters.</p> <p><strong>SP: </strong>Those are new, and people are buying them a lot. And all the burgers of course, and sandwiches.</p> <p><strong>Do you have a menu favorite?</strong></p> <p><strong>MB:</strong> [Chris] does such a good job of changing [the menu] that he takes away my favorites. </p> <p><strong>CK:</strong> I know. What was your old favorite?</p> <p><strong>MB:</strong> I really liked the short ribs. </p> <p><strong>CK:</strong> It's warming up. But it will get cold again.</p> <p><strong>JH:</strong> I liked the chicken roulade. That's one of my favorites.</p> <p><strong>MB:</strong> Apple-cider risotto.</p> <p><strong>SP:</strong> That was so good. </p> <p><strong>MB:</strong> I would get it whenever I had a chance to eat. We run around a lot.</p> <p><strong>Who are your customers? Do you have a group of regulars?</strong></p> <p><strong>SP:</strong> We have regulars. It's cool, because our customer base is so broad. which we love. We don't want any one type. We love that we get all walks of life. </p> <p><strong>JH:</strong> Every element has developed its own regulars. We have a fan base for food and a fan base for bowling.</p> <p><strong>MB:</strong> We have leagues on Sundays, and that was a result of seeing people's faces over and over again. They'd say, "We'd like to come in and do something more organized, and compete." So we developed leagues, and that's been really fun.</p> <p><strong>Are you guys really good at bowling now?</strong></p> <p><strong>SP:</strong> I wish we had more time to bowl.</p> <p><strong>JH:</strong> I once almost got a turkey. It was the middle of the day here, and nobody was here to see it. </p> <p><strong>SP:</strong> Yeah, right.</p> <p><strong>MB:</strong> Tree falls down in the forest. </p> <p><strong>JH:</strong> Other than that, no, I'm not good. </p> <p><strong>MB:</strong> I've progressed, though. I was a solid 99, and now I'm a solid 115. Next year, 200. </p> <p><strong>SP:</strong> I feel like if you break 100 in the house, you're a pro. [Laughs.] </p> <p><strong>G:</strong> And we still have the TBD cocktail. </p> <p><strong>MB:</strong> Yeah, we opened with the TBD, which was the To Be Determined cocktail that we'd name for the first person to bowl 300 here. It will be the TBD forever. </p> <p><img alt="One%20Year-Mission%20Bowling-10.jpg" src="http://cdn1.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/1019824/One_20Year-Mission_20Bowling-10.0.jpg"></p> <p><strong>Do you ever read reviews?</strong></p> <p><strong>SP:</strong> People send us reviews all the time. They're like, "Oh, great article," and we're like, "Awesome!" It's nice.</p> <p><strong>But you don't seek it out?</strong></p> <p><strong>SP:</strong> Not really.</p> <p><strong>CK:</strong> I don't. Not unless there's something really egregious.</p> <p><strong>JH:</strong> I'm curious. I usually look.</p> <p><strong>MB:</strong> I'm okay with not reading it. People tell me.</p> <p><strong>CK:</strong> As long as someone in the house is reading it. It doesn't have to be me. </p> <p><strong>SP:</strong> We always appreciate it, but you never want to get skewed or jaded by anything you see or read. People are in the house having a good time, there are smiles on their faces, you know, we're doing our job. And the other stuff is all kind of peripheral. We don't live or die by what we read. </p> <p><strong>CK:</strong> It's like the Yelp curve or whatever. You have to read all of it. Because what's the majority? Three stars or four stars. "I had a great time." And then there's some where people say, "I hated it because I couldn't find any parking. One star." </p> <p><strong>JH: </strong>You have to take it with a grain of salt. I do most of the bookings for the lanes, and I deal with customers one-on-one, so I need be aware of what is being said about us and monitor that, and monitor the private parties and the guests.</p> <p><strong>For the next year, what are your plans or goals?</strong></p> <p><strong>MB:</strong> Everyone wants to get a 300. </p> <p><strong>SP:</strong> We all want the TBD named after us! [Laughs.]</p> <p><strong>MB:</strong> Just keeping things fresh and fun. I get a lot of inspiration from Chris. Keeping the bar seasonal, but also looking out for new products and listening to the customers and what they want.</p> <p><strong>SP:</strong> Year one was so much discovery about who our customer is. Although that's broad, we know what the expectations are. Everyone wants to have a good time and be taken care of really well. We're looking forward to really growing that and really continuing to get into that path. </p> <p><strong>JH: </strong>This past year, we were able to see the kind of demand the customers are bringing to us. In terms of the parties, I know what works now, and I know what's not as popular, perhaps. And I just want to keep catering to the guests and really having their expectations be met, not just with bowling and drinks, but really working at those extra elements to bring the whole experience together. </p> <p><strong>CK:</strong> Goals for the next year? More everything. More people, more fun. Just always trying to get better. We'd love to be reviewed on the food side. Just keep improving. Those are the goals, but we'll see what happens. [Laughs.]</p> <p><strong>When did you see the restaurant really become its own entity?</strong></p> <p><strong>JH:</strong> It was pretty early on. Maybe, three months? </p> <p><strong>SP:</strong> I think the first month was probably the most challenging, with people coming in for the first time and not understanding that we were a restaurant, because we don't do advertising, really. It's a lot of word-of-mouth. The media was really great, really strong with us and supportive. We went through a lot of hurdles opening this, what with the permitting process and being the first bowling alley to open in SF in 40 years, all this stuff. So we had a lot of media support. A lot of people already knew about the bowling part, so it was up to us to educate them when they came in and show that they could have an amazing drink and wonderful dinner experience too. It took a couple of months.</p> <p><strong>CK:</strong> Maybe three or four [months]. We added brunch, and brunch got settled in. Hours got to what they are now. The menu just filled out at about that time.</p> <p><strong>What inspired you to open a bowling alley, as opposed to a mini-golf course?</strong></p> <p><strong>CK:</strong> Great idea! [Laughs.]</p> <p><strong>SP:</strong> The idea came from me bowling with my grandparents. My grandfather is 89 and still in a league. So whenever I visit him, that's what we do; we take him bowling. Molly and I co-owned a bar together already, and we thought, what's next after this bar? I wanted to do something else. And it just totally hit me like a ton of bricks: that's it! Let's do a bowling alley, but let's do it with really good food, not the horrible lighting. Great drinks. The whole feeling of bowling is, it's fun and everybody has a place in their heart for it from their childhood.</p> <p>My mom was in a league when she was nine months pregnant with me. So I was in her belly, bowling. There's that emotional connection, too. But we just wanted to make it more comfortable. You still have that feeling, because that feeling is the best. So to answer your question, it wasn't like we wanted to do a business with an activity. What is that activity? It was bowling! Now how do we make it happen? </p> <p><strong>Do you have a favorite moment from the year?</strong></p> <p><strong>JH:</strong> For me, it was during the holiday season, definitely. We did back-to-back parties. Long, long, long days, but as an event planner, it was the peak for me. People are so happy. We did this for them. We have this place, this environment and they love the food, the drinks, the service, everything, and that brought it all together for me...we've already booked parties for next holiday season.</p> <p><strong>SP:</strong> It does feel good knowing we created something that people love, and they feel good. There's emotion. They didn't just go to a bar and get trashed. It's so cute when people come in with their little costumes and are matching. </p> <p><strong>JH:</strong> People in actual bowling-pin suits.</p> <p><strong>SP:</strong> Or the black-tie bowling, when they all came in in full gowns and ascots, and they got our bowling shoes and had little pom-pom socks. </p> <p><strong>CK:</strong> For me it was New Year's Eve, at the end of the holidays. It was really fun. Early in the night we did a three- and four-course dinner, and then kind of near the end of the evening, we cleaned it all up and set it up for a party, had snacks, great music. Also it was the end of the year and the holiday season was over, so it was like, "Yes!" [Laughs.]</p> <p><strong>SP:</strong> I think my favorite [moment] was when I finally got my grandparents to come down here [from South Lake Tahoe]. I cried the whole time. It was their big thing to to see their granddaughter, and I had been talking about it for so long. I don't think they really could grasp what we were doing, because they just know their bowling alley. It's very old-school, an old place. Very traditional. And my grandpa is like, "Are you sure? Do people bowl anymore? In my league, people are falling out." But he's in his late 80s. Sometimes people can't do it anymore. When he finally came he looked all around and just the look on his face, baffled. "Is this bowling? This is what she was talking about?" It was just so emotional. I couldn't stop crying. I was so happy. I was worried they were never going to make it down, and they finally did. </p>
https://sf.eater.com/2013/4/3/6457171/the-mission-bowling-club-team-on-private-parties-grandparents-andChloe Schildhause2013-04-01T03:54:26-07:002013-04-01T03:54:26-07:00What to Eat at AT&T Park, Home of the Giants
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<p></p> <p><em>This guide is from 2013, and much of its information is now inaccurate. <a href="http://sf.eater.com/archives/2014/04/02/what_to_eat_at_att_park_home_of_the_giants_1.php">See the current version. </a></em></p> <p><img class="padded float-right" alt="2012_4_stadiumlogo.jpg" src="http://cdn0.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/1020740/2012_4_stadiumlogo.0.jpg" width="200" height="222">There's no need to settle for a mediocre hot dog or an $8 Bud Light at <strong>AT&T Park</strong>. In keeping with SF's foodie Mecca status, the Giants' home club is generally considered to have some of the best stadium concessions in the country. While purists can still secure their peanuts and Cracker Jack, the food-savvy have options like rock-cod tacos from <strong>Mijita</strong>, panini filled with farmer's market produce, <strong>Humphry Slocombe</strong> ice cream, and fresh strawberries with whipped cream. Even the humble hot dog gets an upgrade here, with a bacon-studded number from local butcher <strong>4505 Meats</strong> at chef Traci Des Jardins' <strong>Public House</strong>. As Friday's afternoon home opener against the Cardinals approaches, we bring you our guide to the best eats in the ballpark, updated to reflect 2013's vendor lineup. <br></p> <p><strong>AT&T Park's Five Standouts</strong></p> <p><img alt="Public%20House.jpg" src="http://cdn1.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/806910/Public_20House.0.jpg" width="150" height="112" class="float-left"><strong>Public House:</strong> <strong>Traci Des Jardins</strong> has raised the standard for stadium dining, with chef <strong>Chris Wade</strong> offering takes on comfort-food classics like mini corn dogs, fried mac and cheese, pulled-pork sliders, and steamed mussels, plus Humphry Slocombe ice cream for dessert. Public House also boasts the park's best beer selection (and one of the city's best in general), with 20 taps of craft goodness from points local (Linden Street, High Water, Mill Valley Beerworks) and national (Ballast Point, Allagash, Stone). Pro tip: grab a pint of the good stuff in a plastic cup on your way into the park, which allows you to save cash <em>and</em> use the restaurant's less-crowded interior entrance. [Willie Mays Plaza]</p> <p><img alt="Crazy%20Crab%27z.jpg" src="http://cdn3.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/806912/Crazy_20Crab_27z.0.jpg" width="150" height="99" class="float-left"><strong>Crazy Crab'z:</strong> Crazy Crab may have long been unseated as mascot by Lou Seal, but his signature sandwich still inspires cravings in fans with its piles of sweet, fresh Dungeness crab between two slices of garlic butter-brushed grilled sourdough. A crab salad and crab cocktail also grace the menu. [Center Field]</p> <p><img alt="Orlando%27s%20Carribean%20Bowl.jpg" src="http://cdn2.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/806914/Orlando_27s_20Carribean_20Bowl.0.jpg" width="150" height="100" class="float-left"><strong>Orlando's Caribbean BBQ:</strong> This pair of booths is known for the Cha-Cha bowl, which combine rice, beans, grilled chicken, and pineapple-zucchini salsa into a Caribbean take on bibimbap. If you're looking to eat away a beer buzz, it's one of the most filling meals in the park. [Promenade Level and View Level]</p> <p><img alt="club%20level.jpg" src="http://cdn3.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/806916/club_20level.0.jpg" width="150" height="99" class="float-left"><strong>Farmers' Market Cart:</strong> Those searching for a healthier alternative to hot dogs and fried goods should head to the Ferry Plaza Farmers' Market stand. Rotating dishes feature seasonal produce, while standbys include gruyere grilled cheese, fresh strawberry shortcake, and a blackberry-cabernet sorbet. [Club Level]</p> <p><img alt="Mijita.jpg" src="http://cdn3.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/806920/Mijita.0.jpg" width="150" height="99" class="float-left"><strong>Mijita:</strong> Public House's next-door Mexican restaurant, also from Des Jardins and Wade, serves chicken tamales, jicama salad with grapefruit, avocado and pumpkin seeds and an assortment of tacos, like carne asada and crisped carnitas. As with beers from Public House, you can grab a margarita in a plastic cup to tote to your seat. [Willie Mays Plaza]</p> <h3>The Full Lineup</h3> <p>* <em>indicates special Eater recommendations </em></p> <h3>Center Field</h3> <p><strong>Anchor Grill:</strong> Ahi tuna and portobello mushroom sandwiches, burgers, kielbasa.<br><strong>*Pier 44 Chowder House:</strong> Warm clam chowder served in a bread bowl, perfect for chilly night games. Other seafood items on the menu include calamari and fish and chips. <br><strong>*Pipkins Pit BBQ:</strong> An array of 'cue-centric Southern specialities, like beans, brisket sandwiches, cole slaw and pulled pork. Also the home of <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ye3yHsX4XqQ">one of the best/strangest commercials for a concession stand ever made.</a> <br><strong>*Say Hey! Sausage Specialties:</strong> Sausages, bratwurst and hot dogs. And everyone's favorite, Kozy Shack rice pudding. <br><strong>Stormin' Norman's:</strong> Well known for their fry bread, a massive piece of fried dough topped with powdered sugar. Or cinnamon. Or honey. The options are endless. And, according to their menu, free whooopie [sic] pies. </p> <h3>Field Level</h3> <p><strong>California Cookout:</strong> The main event is a hefty kielbasa sandwich topped with onions, pepper and sauerkraut. Other options include chicken sandwiches and Polish sausages, as well as that ahi-tuna sandwich that you'll have to watch Tyler Florence eat in an inning-break video at every. single. game. <br><strong>Clam Chowder:</strong> More bread-bowl chowder action.<br><strong>Derby Grill:</strong> Burgers, chicken tenders, BBQ brisket sandwiches, veggie dogs and corn dogs. <br><strong>Edsel Ford Fong:</strong> Named for <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Edsel_Ford_Fong">the famously abusive <strong>Sam Wo</strong> waiter</a>, this is the one and only Chinese concession in the park, serving beef & broccoli, Thai beef skewers, Chinese salad, chow fun and Thai yellow curry. <br><strong>Gourmet Sausages:</strong> Bratwurst, hot links and kielbasa. <br><strong>McCovey's 44 BBQ:</strong> Classic BBQ items, like chicken and baby back ribs. <br><strong>*Murph's Clubhouse Pub:</strong> This Irish pub-themed booth's sweet-potato fries dusted with curry are a nice change from the stadium's never-ending supply of garlic fries. Also on the menu: Irish quesadillas and corned-beef or brisket sandwiches. <br><strong>Saag's Deli Sandwiches:</strong> Roast beef, turkey, and ham sandwiches; fresh fruit salad.<br><strong>*Tres Agaves Mexican Kitchen:</strong> The go-to place for margaritas and bacon-wrapped hot dogs. Nachos, tacos, and tamales are also available.</p> <h3>Promenade Level</h3> <p><strong>A Taste of North Beach:</strong> A medley of Italian dishes, like the forty-clove garlic chicken sandwich from Stinking Rose, tiramisu from Victoria Pastry, meatball sandwiches, and cheese ravioli. <br><strong>First Base Carvery:</strong> Carved turkey, beef-brisket and corned-beef sandwiches, panini, and s'mores. <br><strong>Lefty O'Doul's Cocktail Lounge:</strong> Making it's debut at the park this season is the cocktail lounge Lefty O'Douls, which will have offer their famous Bloody Mary. The story goes that the handwritten recipe for this cocktail, from Lefty himself, was discovered five years ago in his old golf bag. The Bloody Mary is served just as O'Doul intended it. <br><strong>Outta Here Cheesesteaks</strong>: Cheesesteaks in various forms: classic Philly, NorCal Veggie, and chicken. </p> <h3>Club Level</h3> <p><strong>*Ghirardelli:</strong> Home of the famous hot fudge sundae, as well as the certifiably insane s'mores sandwich, with melted chocolate and marshmallows between two slices of bread. <br><strong>Giuseppe Bazurro:</strong> Named for a 19th-century San Francisco restaurateur. Italian eats like pizza and chicken parmesan. <br><strong>Joe Garcia's:</strong> Soft tacos, burritos, quesadillas and other Mexican dishes. <br><strong>Long Taters Baked Potato:</strong> A baked-potato bar with unlimited toppings, ranging from cheddar cheese and grilled onions to bacon and grilled corn.<br><strong>Mashi's Sushi Bistro:</strong> Fresh sushi rolls, sashimi and edamame. </p> <h3>View Level</h3> <p><strong>*Doggie Diner Stand</strong>: The much-loved Sheboygan bratwurst, served on a sourdough roll with sauerkraut and onions. </p> <p>Beer, wine, and mixed-drink purveyors include <strong>Bayside Brews</strong>, <strong>Mission Creek Cantina</strong>, <strong>Budweiser</strong>, <strong>Left Field Bar</strong>, <strong>Right Field Bar</strong>, <strong>Lexus Clubhouse Bar</strong>, <strong>Widmer Brew Haus</strong>, <strong>California Wine Bar</strong>, <strong>The Anchor Taproom </strong>and <strong>Cable Car Bar</strong>. </p> <p>Other food options found in multiple locations throughout the stadium: Coffee and espresso from <strong>Cafe Juma</strong>. Hot chocolate from <strong>Ghirardelli</strong> and <strong>Cafe Juma</strong>. Ice Cream from <strong>Dreyers</strong> and <strong>Haagen-Dazs</strong>. <strong>Hebrew National</strong> hot dogs. Pizza from <strong>Port Walk Pizza</strong>. Sandwiches from <strong>King Street Carvery</strong>. Fresh popcorn. The famed Gilroy garlic fries. Nuts from <strong>Cinnamon Roasted Nuts</strong>, <strong>Hot Roasted Nuts</strong> and <strong>Cervesas</strong>. Peanuts, Cracker Jack, and Red Vines from <strong>Doggie Diner</strong>. Sno-cones, cotton candy, and lemonade.</p> <p>And if none of this appeals, here's AT&T Park's biggest secret of all: <strong>you can bring in any outside food you want, no questions asked.</strong> <a href="http://sanfrancisco.giants.mlb.com/sf/ballpark/information/index.jsp?content=AZguide#food">Seriously.</a> (The amnesty doesn't apply to alcoholic drinks or any beverage that's not in a sealed plastic bottle, though.) Good neighboring options include fried chicken and waffles from <strong>Little Skillet</strong>, a whole pizza from <strong>Amici's</strong>, and <strong>Ironside</strong>'s pressed Cubano.</p>
https://sf.eater.com/2013/4/1/6458497/what-to-eat-at-at-t-park-home-of-the-giantsChloe Schildhause