Eater SF: All Posts by Ellen FortThe San Francisco Restaurant, Bar, and Nightlife Bloghttps://cdn.vox-cdn.com/community_logos/52682/favicon-32x32.png2021-10-14T13:00:23-07:00https://sf.eater.com/authors/ellen-fort/rss2021-10-14T13:00:23-07:002021-10-14T13:00:23-07:00Le Fantastique Spins Caviar Eclairs and Luxe Bubbles into Hayes Valley
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<img alt="Caviar eclairs from Le Fantastique" src="https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/91PEoVWVDmmIC81_7unaDEXI5aI=/112x0:1889x1333/1310x983/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_image/image/69684284/LeFantastique_PChang_0397.0.jpg" />
<figcaption><a class="ql-link" href="https://www.patriciachangphotography.com/" target="_blank">Patricia Chang</a></figcaption>
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<p>The new seafood slash wine bar from from the Bird Dog team will open late August — and would you check out the fancy fish snacks, wine wall, and vinyl collection?</p> <p id="xT0vih">San Francisco’s Hayes Valley is filled with little nooks and crannies that offer some of the city’s finest low-key drinking and snacking options, from natural wine bars <a href="https://sf.eater.com/venue/43434/fig-thistle-market">Fig & Thistle</a> and <a href="https://sf.eater.com/venue/20970/birba">Birba</a> to the <a href="https://sf.eater.com/venue/59781/linden-room">Linden Room’s</a> craft cocktails. A new option is on the horizon, as the veteran restaurateur couple behind Palo Alto’s <a href="https://sf.eater.com/2015/11/2/9660890/bird-dog-menu-open-palo-alto">Bird Dog</a> bring their own vision of the ideal hangout focusing on seafood and wine to the neighborhood. Le Fantastique is a longtime dream of owners Emily and Robbie Wilson, and it’s opening at the end of August (see update, below) with a very distinct vibe. </p>
<p id="jIs8J9">White wine from France, raw fish, and serious dedication to vinyl is at the heart of Le Fantastique, inspired by the duo’s friendship with fellow wine professional Chris Robles. Before Robles passed away from cancer, the friends dreamt up a restaurant concept to match their specific interests, drinking Champagne and chablis together, listening to records, and wondering why there wasn’t a restaurant that was as fun as their get-togethers. The result is a tribute to that friendship and an extension of the Wilsons’ hospitality. </p>
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<img alt="Caviar set at Le Fantastique" data-mask-text="false" src="https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/mw17C6u8AXXkVIkf7Da0ucJQXVI=/800x0/filters:no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/22762003/LeFantastique_PChang_0367.jpg">
<cite><a class="ql-link" href="https://www.patriciachangphotography.com/" target="_blank">Patricia Chang</a></cite>
<figcaption>Caviar set, warm madeleines, kaluga</figcaption>
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<img alt="Caviar eclairs at Le Fantastique" data-mask-text="false" src="https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/N35UhHPn3q1x5MgHApgkMa-UmNU=/800x0/filters:no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/22762006/LeFantastique_PChang_0389.jpg">
<cite><a class="ql-link" href="https://www.patriciachangphotography.com/" target="_blank">Patricia Chang</a></cite>
<figcaption>Caviar eclair, smoked onion, hasselback</figcaption>
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<img alt="Caviar set at Le Fantastique" data-mask-text="false" src="https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/aFe0Bf2WpqOXGtyI6y7A1zX9_zQ=/800x0/filters:no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/22762004/LeFantastique_PChang_0370.jpg">
<cite><a class="ql-link" href="https://www.patriciachangphotography.com/" target="_blank">Patricia Chang</a></cite>
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<img alt="Raw fish starter from Le Fantastique." data-mask-text="false" src="https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/_7EQBuYQhDVzRKaD54yc5haZVdE=/800x0/filters:no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/22762012/LeFantastique_PChang_0435.jpg">
<cite><a class="ql-link" href="https://www.patriciachangphotography.com/" target="_blank">Patricia Chang</a></cite>
<figcaption>Sea bream, kohlrabi, hyssop</figcaption>
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<img alt="Cooked fish small plate from Le Fantastique" data-mask-text="false" src="https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/T5ZRqLcj8k4WIH7--i5pj-PJxe0=/800x0/filters:no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/22762019/LeFantastique_PChang_0490.jpg">
<cite><a class="ql-link" href="https://www.patriciachangphotography.com/" target="_blank">Patricia Chang</a></cite>
<figcaption>King salmon, alderwood smoked, espelette, citron</figcaption>
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<img alt="Crab small plate from Le Fantastique" data-mask-text="false" src="https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/_82Wn-nEy7JH7goRmxpiaz84sv8=/800x0/filters:no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/22762025/LeFantastique_PChang_0566.jpg">
<cite><a class="ql-link" href="https://www.patriciachangphotography.com/" target="_blank">Patricia Chang</a></cite>
<figcaption>Japanese crab, sushi rice, crab fat, Hollandaise</figcaption>
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<img alt="Raw fish from Le Fantastique" data-mask-text="false" src="https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/nzcdWOKqKxzvpoIBglKUWf1z6tA=/800x0/filters:no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/22762009/LeFantastique_PChang_0402.jpg">
<cite><a class="ql-link" href="https://www.patriciachangphotography.com/" target="_blank">Patricia Chang</a></cite>
<figcaption>Albacore, seaweed, poblano water</figcaption>
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<p id="LGhTk1">The core of the menu is raw fish, seasoned and cured in various ways, the Wilsons say. “We’re aging and curing fish, most of it’s still raw, but the things we’re flavoring it with, like grilled ribeye bones, are going to be really exciting,” Robbie says. “Our fabrication room is designed to age the fish, and we’ll be hanging and drying for seven days, and it creates an incredible tasting fish. It’s a lot of hits from the sushi bar, but it is not a sushi bar.” </p>
<p id="GSQkwm">There will be grilled and fried items as well, like delicately battered and fried shishito peppers and aged wagyu. And, of course, there will be caviar. One of Le Fantastique’s signature items is a miniature eclair topped with smoked onion creme fraiche, banana maple glaze, and topped with caviar. </p>
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<img alt="Bread and cultured butter from Le Fantastique" data-mask-text="false" src="https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/eLNNUKMEQ8paaoBS2CC2jlMMaZY=/800x0/filters:no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/22762005/LeFantastique_PChang_0380.jpg">
<cite><a class="ql-link" href="https://www.patriciachangphotography.com/" target="_blank">Patricia Chang</a></cite>
<figcaption>Bread and butter</figcaption>
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<img alt="Fried shishito peppers from Le Fantastique" data-mask-text="false" src="https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/ZbGR6DCCFR0P3J45xMDEFo62E04=/800x0/filters:no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/22762024/LeFantastique_PChang_0537.jpg">
<cite><a class="ql-link" href="https://www.patriciachangphotography.com/" target="_blank">Patricia Chang</a></cite>
<figcaption>Crispy padrons with bonito vinegar</figcaption>
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<img alt="Dessert at Le Fantastique" data-mask-text="false" src="https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/Sdtijwihuku6IGiDQ52YGMBQ3Fo=/800x0/filters:no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/22762016/LeFantastique_PChang_0465.jpg">
<cite><a class="ql-link" href="https://www.patriciachangphotography.com/" target="_blank">Patricia Chang</a></cite>
<figcaption>Paris Brest</figcaption>
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<img alt="Dessert at Le Fantastique" data-mask-text="false" src="https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/OLMkLbb8HKiNnXXiBv31JuPLRfE=/800x0/filters:no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/22762021/LeFantastique_PChang_0519.jpg">
<cite><a class="ql-link" href="https://www.patriciachangphotography.com/" target="_blank">Patricia Chang</a></cite>
<figcaption>Kakagori, pistachio praline, chocolate mousse</figcaption>
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<p id="5PBll6">Bread is also a mainstay, featuring a very specific loaf that Robbie describes as the “marriage of sourdough and shokupan,” the perfect San Francisco mashup, served alongside cultured butter whipped with spicy crab fat and espelette pepper, and seaweed from Marin. Joe Hou (Angler) is leading that charge, as well as the pastry program, which will include fluffy mountains of kakigori for dessert. </p>
<p id="Hyh4EP">As for the wine: There will be lots of it, all of it white, and much of it French. An aggressive by-the-glass selection will be available, allowing multiple pairings and exploration. “There are so many talented winemakers throughout California and the states, but we’re staying true to the origin story,” Robbie says. But also, “It wasn’t about drinking expensive Burgundy.” Expect Champagne and beers from the Savoie, says Wilson, from a clean, aromatic, and not overly expensive list. </p>
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<img alt="Lounge area at Le Fantastique" data-mask-text="false" src="https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/Ljs6TFiveZpDfi5QcPvg9JYR1XY=/800x0/filters:no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/22762026/LeFantastique_PChang_0584.jpg">
<cite><a class="ql-link" href="https://www.patriciachangphotography.com/" target="_blank">Patricia Chang</a></cite>
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<img alt="Sound system at Le Fantastique" data-mask-text="false" src="https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/eYCnpKj2PEU6alswb81VxJlXyc4=/800x0/filters:no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/22762035/LeFantastique_PChang_0611.jpg">
<cite><a class="ql-link" href="https://www.patriciachangphotography.com/" target="_blank">Patricia Chang</a></cite>
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<img alt="Wine wall at Le Fantastique" data-mask-text="false" src="https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/Tdi9CFLa8nAjmq-j5IhZiAuqw4o=/800x0/filters:no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/22762037/LeFantastique_PChang_0621.jpg">
<cite><a class="ql-link" href="https://www.patriciachangphotography.com/" target="_blank">Patricia Chang</a></cite>
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<img alt="Front bar at Le Fantastique" data-mask-text="false" src="https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/vCP3wCkaQkqzqZflsnIfhr0U30U=/800x0/filters:no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/22762036/LeFantastique_PChang_0618.jpg">
<cite><a class="ql-link" href="https://www.patriciachangphotography.com/" target="_blank">Patricia Chang</a></cite>
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<img alt="Dining room at Le Fantastique" data-mask-text="false" src="https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/iXXeT5ECCgUth0kNPinONPYevps=/800x0/filters:no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/22762034/LeFantastique_PChang_0608.jpg">
<cite><a class="ql-link" href="https://www.patriciachangphotography.com/" target="_blank">Patricia Chang</a></cite>
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<img alt="Booth at Le Fantastique" data-mask-text="false" src="https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/Mk7w6-ircuxXQfcEQIRqreYsk1c=/800x0/filters:no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/22762031/LeFantastique_PChang_0599.jpg">
<cite><a class="ql-link" href="https://www.patriciachangphotography.com/" target="_blank">Patricia Chang</a></cite>
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<img alt="Wall graffitti at Le Fantastique" data-mask-text="false" src="https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/2oyppfBIc9up5uiDH8aQDS8sAwA=/800x0/filters:no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/22762033/LeFantastique_PChang_0605.jpg">
<cite><a class="ql-link" href="https://www.patriciachangphotography.com/" target="_blank">Patricia Chang</a></cite>
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<p id="O71vWV">Inside, there’s a decidedly midcentury-inspired look, starting with diners’ first sight when they walk in: a 1970s turntable and hand-built McIntosh sound system with oversize speakers and tube amps. “We invested a lot in how we designed the sound in the space,” Robbie says. “And we are focused on music that is made for vinyl and sounds like vinyl. We take inspiration from the listening bars of Tokyo to old, classic music. We wanted diners to be able to hear that crackle of the needle to give that little detail.”</p>
<p id="D2Nz5r">Designed by Studio Ren, the restaurant is a mix of classics and urban artwork, from the leather banquets and marble-topped tables to a graffiti mural that lines the bar. “It’s really simple and clean and comfortable,” says Robbie. “I always refer to it like a nice restaurant in the 11th arrondissement in Paris and a recording studio from the 70s in Los Angeles.” A private listening lounge has been dubbed “the Record Shop,” where guests can have drinks and plates of raw fish while enjoying Robbie’s featured records. </p>
<p id="AZBHL0">Most of all, the chef and team are ready to see people again, though there’s no such thing as good timing in these uncertain times. “I’m ready to see the energy of the dining room,” Robbie says. “The thing we keep coming back to is that [Le Fantastique] is really is about enjoying life. I can’t wait to have a glass of wine in hand, raw fish, and bread and butter, listening to some amazing tunes.”</p>
<p id="5UkQJm"><em>Le Fantastique will open in late August. Opening hours are Tuesday to Saturday, 5:30 to 10 p.m. </em></p>
<p id="4pLWtb"><em>UPDATE: October 14th, 2021, 1:00 p.m.</em>: <em>The owners of Le Fantastique originally told Eater SF they were opening before the end of August, but after many pandemic delays, the restaurant is finally opening on Friday, October 22. </em></p>
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<img alt="Exterior of Le Fantastique" data-mask-text="false" src="https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/kf9NTYAPdj6PWZ3f7bG3tcbWDTs=/800x0/filters:no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/22762002/LeFantastique_PChang_0354.jpg">
<cite><a class="ql-link" href="https://www.patriciachangphotography.com/" target="_blank">Patricia Chang</a></cite>
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https://sf.eater.com/2021/8/5/22610202/le-fantastique-open-hayes-valleyEllen Fort2021-06-25T11:01:34-07:002021-06-25T11:01:34-07:00Head to Oakland Now for Rich, Black Japanese Curry and Fluffy Fruit Sandwiches
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<img alt="Fried chicken curry" src="https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/VSzDZfaeXlJR6io9xtzMX6WPzgw=/0x146:1284x1109/1310x983/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_image/image/69505087/IMG_1399.0.jpeg" />
<figcaption>Fried chicken curry | Chikara Ono</figcaption>
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<p>Dela Curo and Sundo are now open for lunch and dinner</p> <p id="WaRFWX">Swan’s Market has a new two-in-one opening with the addition of <a href="https://www.delacuro.com/">Dela Curo</a> and Sundo, two separate businesses wedged into the former location of B-Dama, the izakaya-style kiosk that served udon, sashimi, and more. The duo comes from Chikara Ono, chef-owner of B-Dama, and is inspired by Japan’s department store food halls that sell excellent to-go dishes.</p>
<p id="lYQXfE">Both Dela Curo and Sundo are open now for lunch, and next week marks the launch of dinner. It’s been a slow build-up following the chef’s pop-up trials of the concepts last fall as the search for staff has been difficult. Now Ono is gearing up, with plans to expand the menus at both in the coming weeks. </p>
<p id="NnWGa1">Dela Curo offers rich, black Japanese curry, a different variation of the homey curries found at places like <a href="http://www.muraccis.com/berkeley/menu.php">Muracci’s</a>, in which each individual ingredient is cooked until it’s caramelized to a deep, dark, shade of black. The result is something with the thickness of a demi-glace that’s served over white rice and omelets, and alongside katsu for dipping. Ono says one of the best uses for the curry is atop omurice, a soft omelette served over white rice. </p>
<aside id="wa5cpy"><div data-anthem-component="readmore" data-anthem-component-data='{"stories":[{"title":"B-Dama’s Chef Wants East Bay Diners to Know the Pleasures of Japanese Black Curry ","url":"https://sf.eater.com/2020/10/7/21504224/dela-curo-japanese-black-curry-b-dama-chikara-ono"}]}'></div></aside><p id="rF2vYx">For now, the menu includes dela curo black curry with wagyu beef, omu curry, and katsu curry, with a few appetizers including fried chicken, tonkatsu, onion rings, and salad; a vegetarian option is on the way, too. </p>
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<cite>Chikara Ono</cite>
<figcaption>Omucurry from Dela Cura</figcaption>
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<cite>Chikara Ono</cite>
<figcaption>Fig and grape fruit sandwich at Sundo</figcaption>
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<p id="dtMz9V"><a href="https://sf.eater.com/2020/12/2/21754408/sundo-japanese-fruit-sandwiches-milk-bread-choujuku-pan-chikara-ono-b-dama">Sundo</a> is all about sandwiches on fluffy milk bread, which Ono sources from Japan. Fruit sandwiches — sliced fruit like grapes or strawberries and whipped cream on milk bread — are the only option right now, though that menu will grow in the coming weeks as well. One of the main components that sets Ono’s sandwiches apart from others in the area: the Pasco brand bread, a bestseller in Japan that has been notoriously difficult to buy in the United States. Eventually Ono will use that extra-fluffy choujuku bread for savory sandwiches of soft-boiled eggs, wagyu patties, and tonkatsu.</p>
<aside id="EsN4dC"><div data-anthem-component="readmore" data-anthem-component-data='{"stories":[{"title":"Japanese Fruit Sandwiches Are the East Bay’s Newest Not-Too-Sweet Treat ","url":"https://sf.eater.com/2020/12/2/21754408/sundo-japanese-fruit-sandwiches-milk-bread-choujuku-pan-chikara-ono-b-dama"}]}'></div></aside><p id="pIyS2S">Starting next week, hours for Dela Curo and Sundo will be Tuesday from 11:30 a.m. through 7:30 p.m., and Wednesday through Saturday from 11:30 a.m. through 8 p.m. The menu is also available to order <a href="https://www.delacuro.com/online-ordering/dela-curo/menu">online</a>. And if you’re snacking through Oakland tomorrow, Dela Curo will be popping up at local musician Fantastic Negrito’s food and craft <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CQUm9X4hh6F/">market</a>.</p>
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<aside id="mKUQhW"><div data-anthem-component="newsletter" data-anthem-component-data='{"slug":"sf-eater"}'></div></aside><p id="JTALZt"></p>
https://sf.eater.com/2021/6/25/22549048/dela-curo-curry-sundo-japanese-milk-bread-oakland-openEllen Fort2021-06-23T13:45:08-07:002021-06-23T13:45:08-07:00Gwyneth Paltrow Probably Didn’t Write This Guide to What’s Cool and New in SF
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<img alt="San Francisco’s Transamerica Pyramid Sells For $650 Million" src="https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/Gu9nlpLxsSVTBJFrX2UGTHinxPw=/222x0:3779x2668/1310x983/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_image/image/69495569/1229348641.0.jpg" />
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<p>Plus, a new owner grabbed the keys to the Riddler, and more intel</p> <p id="YCn6Wr"><em>Welcome to p.m. Intel, your bite-sized roundup of Bay Area food and restaurant news. Tips are always welcome, </em><a href="mailto:tips@eater.com"><em>drop them here</em></a><em>.</em></p>
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<li id="ZZYpdd">An opportunity to dunk upon Gwyneth Paltrow and her vagina-egg-shilling website Goop <a href="https://www.sfgate.com/local/article/Goop-bizarre-san-francisco-guide-paltrow-calif-16266034.php">hath arisen</a> in San Francisco, way outside of her natural environs of Los Angeles. SFGate noticed that <em>someone </em>at Goop who is presumably not the golden-haired one herself (she’s no stranger to SF, and <a href="https://sf.eater.com/2017/4/13/15287464/gwyneth-paltrow-san-francisco-restaurants">has eaten well here in the past</a>) wrote a travel guide to “What’s New and Great in San Francisco,” filled with some admittedly great things, a few new things, and some hilariously weird things, indeed. As SFGate notes, the mention of SF as the “Golden City” really kicks things off, followed by references to Oakland as an SF neighborhood, and recommendations for hotels hours away from the city. We all know how fun it is to ridicule misguided guides to the city, but categorizing Izakaya Rintaro as “catering” is very special. (Its description reads: “For a less typical catered meal in the Bay Area, we recommend Rintaro, which serves excellent Japanese-style food at private parties. They also have a restaurant in the Mission, which is worth checking out, too.”) Rude. [SFGate]</li>
<li id="tDbaMF">There’s finally news on what will take over the former location of the Riddler, the female-owned and operated wine bar that closed during the pandemic. Tablehopper <a href="http://www.tablehopper.com/chatterbox/hayes-valley-updates-20th-century-cafe-sets-closing-date-and-four-barrel-is-moving-in-with-loquat-ne/">reports</a> that it will open as Linden & Laguna, a wine bar from a wine guy named Chris Nickolopoulos. He’s the CEO of a boutique wine import, production, and distribution company called Maritime Wine Trading Collective. No word on when it’ll open, or much else yet. [Tablehopper]</li>
<li id="0IdUjM">SF’s very popular dumpling-consumption destination, Dumpling Time, will open an East Bay location in Berkeley’s Fourth Street District, <a href="https://www.berkeleyside.org/2021/06/23/dumpling-time-berkeley-mama-tanya-holland">Berkeleyside</a> has discovered. It’ll snuggle in right next to the Amazon store, CB2, and all of Fourth Street’s other delights, including Market Hall, Tacubaya, and more. In addition to indoor dining for slurping enormous XLBs, owner Kash Feng says a large outdoor seating area is on the way, too. [Berkeleyside]</li>
<li id="hXMR6G">Whoever is running <a href="https://www.sfgate.com/food/article/In-N-Out-Washington-DC-burger-East-Coast-16265608.php">an imposter In-N-Out food truck in Washington, DC</a> better run and hide, because the West Coast–based chain does not play around when it comes to its carefully guarded brand. Some enterprising burger people have been serving a menu of double-doubles to homesick West Coasters living in the bleak, animal-style-free Southeast, apparently without the burger chain’s knowledge or consent. The chain has said that it will always stay on the Best Coast in the past, so sad residents of DC will still have to come out to this side of the country for their secret menu fix. [SFGate]</li>
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https://sf.eater.com/2021/6/23/22547487/gwyneth-paltrow-guide-new-cool-sfEllen Fort2021-06-22T11:48:20-07:002021-06-22T11:48:20-07:00SF Could Actually Become Not the Worst Place to Open a Restaurant
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<img alt="U.S.-CALIFORNIA-COVID-19-REOPENING" src="https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/-VrBpwHsky1J4u5Uy77j94U839A=/120x0:4197x3058/1310x983/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_image/image/69488049/1233568872.0.jpg" />
<figcaption>Photo by Dong Xudong/Xinhua via Getty Images</figcaption>
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<p>Plus, there’s a beer delivery problem plaguing SF bars, and more intel </p> <p id="YCn6Wr"><em>Welcome to p.m. Intel, your bite-sized roundup of Bay Area food and restaurant news. Tips are always welcome, </em><a href="mailto:tips@eater.com"><em>drop them here</em></a><em>.</em></p>
<hr class="p-entry-hr" id="MCk6WR">
<ul>
<li id="aLTRQj">San Francisco’s reputation as a nightmare of a place to open a restaurant (or retail location) could change, thanks to a proposed new law called First Year Free. Supervisors Hillary Ronen and Matt Haney are introducing the bill today, in a bid to waive a year’s worth of fees that most small businesses have to shell out when opening in the city. That’s a whole slew of permits, licenses, inspections, and so on, typically costing upwards of $30,000. (Remember the horrifying <a href="https://sf.eater.com/2021/4/22/22397615/matcha-n-more-ice-cream-store-200000-quits">tale</a> of the SF man who spent $200,000 and still couldn’t get his ice cream shop open?) If passed, the law would work alongside <a href="https://www.sfchronicle.com/bayarea/article/S-F-s-Proposition-H-is-leading-would-reform-15699785.php">Proposition H,</a> introduced to help speed up the tediously slow pace it takes business owners to get permits in this city. Read all about it <a href="https://www.sfchronicle.com/local/article/Want-to-open-a-restaurant-or-store-in-S-F-The-16263812.php">here</a>, and cross every appendage in hopes that it gives small businesses some relief. [<em>SF Chronicle</em>]</li>
<li id="BwfpDl">Krispy Kreme is <a href="https://www.kron4.com/news/national/krispy-kreme-sells-limited-cosmic-treat-during-strawberry-supermoon/">coming through</a> with a supermoon-themed promotion ahead of this week’s Strawberry Supermoon on Thursday, June 24. It’s the last supermoon of the year, apparently, which means lunar fans should go big with a half-dozen doughnuts filled with strawberry cream, dipped in strawberry icing, then topped with “moon dust,” which are graham cracker crumbs. [KRON4]</li>
<li id="AkdrYq">If doughnuts aren’t your thing, head over to<a href="https://www.littleoriginaljoes.com/"> Little Original Joe’s</a> in West Portal for some soft serve this week. It’s a little treat to celebrate summer and thank teachers and school admins for sticking through this rough school year. Those hardworking school folks can stop by for a free cup or cone of Strauss Family soft serve with choice of toppings. It’s happening now through Friday, June 25; make sure to present a school ID or badge to receive the offer. </li>
<li id="JxgoOW">San Francisco bars are struggling to stock enough beer for their voraciously thirsty post-pandemic customers, <a href="https://sanfrancisco.cbslocal.com/2021/06/22/beer-deliveries-leave-many-san-francisco-bars-tapped-out/">according</a> to KPIX. Golden Brands, one of the city’s major distributors, has reduced deliveries to once per month, leaving most storage-limited bars and restaurants out of luck if their customers want, say, a Corona. Apparently it’s most of the big brands that bars aren’t able to receive, which includes SF’s own Anchor Steam. A group of more than 80 bar owners have sent a letter of complaint to Golden Brands with hopes of reinstating more frequent deliveries. [KPIX]</li>
<li id="17Rqlo">In more on-demand delivery news, SF-based DoorDash will now partner with Albertsons Cos. to provide grocery delivery from almost 2,000 of its stores. Those brands include Safeway, Vons, and Jewel-Osco, which are scattered liberally throughout the Bay Area. It’s a bid to compete with grocery delivery giants like Walmart and Amazon, <a href="https://www.bizjournals.com/sanfrancisco/news/2021/06/22/sfbt-digest-tuesday-peralta-doordash-muni.html">according</a> to SF Business Journal<em>.</em> [SF Business Journal]</li>
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https://sf.eater.com/2021/6/22/22545434/sf-could-actually-become-not-the-worst-place-to-open-a-restaurantEllen Fort2021-06-17T12:48:56-07:002021-06-17T12:48:56-07:00Tonga Room Will Make It Rain Tiki Drinks When It Thunders Back on July 9
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<img alt="" src="https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/b7hkrxscytvqmRTvmmMlr-7WbOA=/0x360:1440x1440/1310x983/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_image/image/69468815/84350243_10157440992523757_111154080037994496_n.0.jpg" />
<figcaption>Tonga Room</figcaption>
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<p>Plus, smoked brisket tacos from Matt Horn are on the horizon, and more intel</p> <p id="YCn6Wr"><em>Welcome to p.m. Intel, your bite-sized roundup of Bay Area food and restaurant news. Tips are always welcome, </em><a href="mailto:tips@eater.com"><em>drop them here</em></a><em>.</em></p>
<hr class="p-entry-hr" id="CIO4TD">
<ul>
<li id="MDW0vo">There’s been much rejoicing as California opens back up and bars and restaurants are allowed to operate at full capacity. But has there ever been a more joyous announcement than the news that the <a href="https://sf.eater.com/venue/tonga-room-hurricane-bar">Tonga Room & Hurricane Bar</a> will reopen on July 9? For the first time since it shut down in March 2020, SF’s favorite immersive tiki extravaganza will be open, Friday and Saturdays from 5 to 11 p.m. with dinner from 5 to 10 pm. Yes, the thunderstorms are coming back, the cocktails are set to burst into flame, and pu pu platters are ready to be served on the deck of Tonga’s schooner. At opening, dinner and the bar will be first-come first-served, so prepare accordingly. </li>
<li id="TDvD2N">Matt Horn is rapidly expanding his scope, from his current status as an Oakland barbecue legend to fried chicken master to, now, tacos. Dalia, a taco trailer parked outside <a href="https://sf.eater.com/venue/horn-barbecue">Horn Barbecue</a> in West Oakland,<a href="https://www.sfchronicle.com/food/article/Burgers-tacos-and-fried-chicken-Here-s-what-16252297.php"> will serve tacos for breakfast and lunch</a>, topped with brisket and other meats that have spent quality time in the smoker. Right now the opening timeline is “soon,” to keep an eye out here or on their <a href="https://www.instagram.com/daliaoak/">Instagram</a>. [<em>SF Chronicle</em>]</li>
<li id="C3YNNE">If <a href="https://sf.eater.com/2021/6/15/22535635/sf-restaurant-reactions-full-reopening">California’s reopening felt anticlimactic</a>, fans of iconic Berkeley restaurant Chez Panisse may find themselves excited once more: It has <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CQL0LxBBGUE/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link">announced</a> plans to resume full service in the dining room this October. Reservations will open in September, so those who haven’t experienced the glory of a simple plate of dates and oranges in over a year should plan ahead. [Instagram]</li>
<li id="fo3i9s">Jessie Street, that funky little L-shaped alleyway next to the Cavalier (and the Westfield Centre) will become the scene of a block party this summer. What is normally a loading ramp for the mall will transform with dining cabanas, lighting, plants, and artwork, including a giant mural on the alley-facing wall of Hotel Pickwick. <a href="https://sf.eater.com/venue/the-cavalier">The Cavalier</a> and Executive Order Bar & Lounge will serve food and drinks. It’s going to run Fridays and Saturdays from 4 to 10 p.m. through September 25. Find more info <a href="https://www.bizjournals.com/sanfrancisco/news/2021/06/17/westfield-block-party-jessie-summer.html">here</a>. [SF Business Times]</li>
<li id="arOSCT">A most excellent <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CQNJbO4h5Dl/">collaboration</a> between Oakland’s <a href="https://sf.eater.com/venue/shawarmaji">Shawarmaji</a> and Tacos El Preciosa has emerged for the duration of June, an homage to the traditional tacos al pastor method that Lebanese immigrants brought to Mexico in the 1930s. Stop by on Thursdays and Fridays for chicken shawarma sunk in a traditional Mexican pastor marinade that’s then wrapped with roasted tomatillo salsa verde, grilled pineapple, pickled red onions, and toum. [Instagram]</li>
<li id="3JNRyx">To celebrate California’s grand reopening, Anchor’s taproom, Public Taps, will serve “Reopen Sesame,” a toasted black sesame lager. All the rest of Anchor’s classics, plus newer brews like their Tropical Hazy IPA, will be available as it shifts to 100-percent capacity indoors and out. More details on reopening plans <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CQMaRKvBeHn/">here</a>.</li>
</ul>
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https://sf.eater.com/2021/6/17/22538582/tonga-room-reopens-san-francisco-july-9Ellen Fort2021-06-15T13:47:43-07:002021-06-15T13:47:43-07:00An SF Celebrity Invests in Vegan Food and His Hometown
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<img alt="Toriano Gordon in front of his new permanent location of Vegan Mob" src="https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/tM9ihbdemusZ-ObyUViBAHEZXNI=/0x0:4032x3024/1310x983/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_image/image/69457491/IMG_5773.0.jpeg" />
<figcaption>Vegan Mob</figcaption>
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<p>Plus, Mountain Winery’s concert series goes on sale, and more intel</p> <p id="YCn6Wr"><em>Welcome to p.m. Intel, your bite-sized roundup of Bay Area food and restaurant news. Tips are always welcome, </em><a href="mailto:tips@eater.com"><em>drop them here</em></a><em>.</em></p>
<hr class="p-entry-hr" id="1Melfb">
<ul>
<li id="16EfHX">SF’s unofficial uncle, actor Danny Glover, has embraced a meat- and dairy-free lifestyle in recent years. Now he’s helping out <a href="https://sf.eater.com/venue/vegan-mob">Vegan Mob</a>, the Oakland-based vegan restaurant with a hip-hop vibe. SFGate<a href="https://www.sfgate.com/food/article/Danny-Glover-San-Francisco-Vegan-Mob-commercial-16247317.php"> caught up with the star recently </a>as he filmed a commercial for Vegan Mob, titled <em>Lethal Vegan Pt. 2. </em>He’s also come on as an investor as the restaurant expands, and will be a partner in the Los Angeles location slated to open next summer. It’s a nice vignette of a star who grew up in San Francisco and is dedicated to helping it thrive. [SFGate]</li>
<li id="0PhfaS">DoorDash is now delivering snacks for your furry best friend, in addition to your late-night pizza orders. The food delivery app, which is headquartered in San Francisco, is teaming up with PetSmart to deliver pet supplies and other items on-demand. NASCAR driver Bubba Wallace is launching the whole shebang with his doodle pup Asher. </li>
<li id="c6k4BL">Concerts are back, baby, and an eclectic mix of artists are on the newly announced schedule for Mountain Winery in Saratoga. Little Big Town, Indigo Girls, Rodrigo y Gabriela, and Gogol Bordello are just a few of the musical acts that will descend on Saratoga over the summer. Ease into live music with wine in hand; <a href="https://www.mountainwinery.com/">tickets go on sale Friday, June 18</a>. </li>
<li id="YyJkFQ">Now that mask restrictions have lifted, it’s a whole new world out there — except, of course, that the virus still exists, and not everyone is vaccinated. How to navigate grocery shopping at your favorite stores like Trader Joe’s is going to be a little bit of a guessing game until things settle down. <a href="https://www.sfchronicle.com/local/article/Masks-at-Trader-Joe-s-Target-and-other-big-16248063.php">Here’s some of what you can expect</a> out there in the world of groceries, and how to navigate it. [<em>SF Chronicle</em>]</li>
<li id="0XWxOq">Travel is ALSO back on the table, and after a year of pent up wanderlust, there’s no time to waste. Eater has launched its epic travel hub with guides to everything from Oaxaca to Yellowstone, and it’s truly worth a read as you plan your summer. Check it all out <a href="https://www.eater.com/22431020/summer-travel-dining-vacation-destinations-usa-mexico-canada-caribbean">here</a>. [Eater]</li>
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https://sf.eater.com/2021/6/15/22534909/danny-glover-vegan-mob-mountain-winery-sf-restaurant-newsEllen Fort2021-06-03T12:53:14-07:002021-06-03T12:53:14-07:00Steep Meat Prices Force Popular Montreal-Style Deli to Temporarily Shutter
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<img alt="" src="https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/cco_gv-mDPiZ5rRafsmeSM2na6k=/28x0:592x423/1310x983/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_image/image/69401680/46519830_1283733741768329_3533659041131659264_n.0.jpg" />
<figcaption><a class="ql-link" href="https://www.facebook.com/augiessmokemeat/photos/gm.342292793263824/1283733738434996/?type=3&theater" target="_blank">Augie’s Montreal Smoke Meat/Facebook</a></figcaption>
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<p>Plus, The Battery does the East Bay, and more afternoon intel</p> <p id="Q3aofo"><em>Welcome to p.m. Intel, your bite-sized roundup of Bay Area food and restaurant news. Tips are always welcome, </em><a href="mailto:eve@eater.com"><em>drop them here</em></a><em>.</em></p>
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<ul>
<li id="S6cdc2">Gnarly supply chain issues and skyrocketing prices on everything from paper goods to — most notably, in this case — meat, has caused Berkeley’s only Montreal-style deli <a href="https://www.sfgate.com/food/article/Meat-prices-shortage-Augies-Montreal-Deli-Bay-Area-16217538.php">to close for the summer</a>. Rather than raise prices or operate at a loss over the summer, owner Lex Gopnik-Lewinski decided to just put Augie’s Montreal Deli on hiatus. Augie’s isn’t the only restaurant in the same position as product prices continue to rise on everything from beef to <a href="https://www.vox.com/22421095/chicken-wings-shortage-delivery-bar">chicken wings</a>. The meat industry has faced supply chain issues, rising prices, and even <a href="https://www.cnn.com/2021/06/02/business/beef-hack-jbs/index.html">cyberattacks</a> in recent months (including the revelation that beloved sustainable meat leader Belcampo Meat Co. has been <a href="https://la.eater.com/2021/6/2/22465387/belcampo-meat-sustainable-beef-mislabeling-los-angeles-santa-monica">mislabeling its meats</a>). [SFGate]</li>
<li id="GT4OG4">A <a href="https://www.sfgate.com/athletics/article/Why-were-Oakland-A-s-minor-league-players-served-16218376.php">photo</a> snapped by one of the minor league players for the Oakland A’s has gone viral, thanks to its horrifying resemblance to one of the sad, sad meals served at Fyre Festival, the much-hyped, hugely failed music festival. The photo shows a meal served to the minor league club players by the team: a slice of American cheese and lettuce on white bread, and the saddest taco the world has ever seen. The big deal, besides the fact that it’s just plain gross, is that minor league players have long gotten the short end of the stick on post-game meals; read the full details <a href="https://www.sfgate.com/athletics/article/Why-were-Oakland-A-s-minor-league-players-served-16218376.php">here</a>. [SFGate]</li>
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<blockquote class="twitter-tweet">
<p lang="en" dir="ltr">Players in the Oakland A’s organization shared these photos of their recent post-game meals.<br><br>No employer would serve these meals to employees they care about. Why are the A’s serving them to their future Major Leaguers? <a href="https://t.co/cIFqiPg6iX">pic.twitter.com/cIFqiPg6iX</a></p>— Advocates for Minor Leaguers (@MiLBAdvocates) <a href="https://twitter.com/MiLBAdvocates/status/1399872788115111941?ref_src=twsrc%5Etfw">June 1, 2021</a>
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<ul>
<li id="836GRj">The Battery, the members-only social club and restaurant in Jackson Square, is opening a second location in Oakland. It’s taking over the Bellevue Club on Lake Merritt, a club that originally opened in 1926 as the Women’s Athletic Club of Alameda County. Despite its spot on the National Register of Historic Places, it’s been on the brink of closure for years, with the pandemic hammering the final nail in its coffin. Now, the building will be preserved as a club once more, and existing members will be granted lifelong memberships to the Battery as well. Read all about it on <a href="https://oaklandside.org/2021/06/02/oaklands-bellevue-club-couldnt-survive-the-pandemic-and-is-being-sold/">Oaklandside</a>. [Oaklandside]</li>
<li id="3lQYAu">It’s pool season (somewhere, at least, where the fog isn’t lurking) and to celebrate, In-N-Out has released possibly the best merch of all time: A<a href="https://www.mercurynews.com/2021/06/02/in-n-out-burger-creates-a-pool-float-shaped-like-a-french-fry-boat/"> pool float</a> in the shape of the chain’s paper french fry boat. That’s right, get fried in a fry boat this summer, for the low, low price of $59.99. It’s available on the In-N-Out website now, so don’t hesitate to snap one up before they’re gone. Ketchup not included. [In-N-Out]</li>
<li id="UliXnp">
<a href="https://sf.eater.com/venue/the-epicurean-trader">The Epicurean Trader</a> <a href="http://www.tablehopper.com/chatterbox/coming-soonwine-bars-from-the-epicurean-trader-noodle-in-a-haystack-finds-a-spot-and-more/">plans to expand</a> into the former La Boulangerie location next door to its shop on Union St., tearing down walls and adding a cafe and wine bar. There’ll be espresso drinks, smoothies, pastries, breakfast sandwiches, and more in addition to lunchtime fare like panini and salads. Cheese, charcuterie, spritzes and more will be on offer there, and at the soon-to-open location in the Ferry Building. [Tablehopper]</li>
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https://sf.eater.com/2021/6/3/22515279/meat-prices-force-popular-montreal-style-restaurant-to-temporarily-shutter-pm-intelEllen Fort2021-06-02T13:40:21-07:002021-06-02T13:40:21-07:00Barbecue Master Matt Horn Will Bring His Fried Chicken Spot to West Oakland
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<img alt="A fried chicken sandwich from Kowbird" src="https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/iqRTDjWsDcIdfxQ6eeUKvLfP4u0=/0x180:2000x1680/1310x983/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_image/image/69379412/kowbird_2.7.png" />
<figcaption>Kowbird</figcaption>
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<p>Fried chicken sandwiches, wings, and all the sides are on the way</p> <p id="Wn8QAY">Matt Horn had a long road to opening his exceptionally popular barbecue restaurant, <a href="https://sf.eater.com/venue/horn-barbecue">Horn Barbecue</a>, in West Oakland. Permitting, construction delays, and, oh yeah, a global pandemic got in the way. All the while, however, the ambitious pitmaster had more than one iron in the fire: specifically, Kowbird, his fried chicken restaurant. </p>
<p id="XEeKK9">Though it was originally slated to open as a kiosk in a <a href="https://sf.eater.com/venue/jack-london-square">Jack London Square</a> food hall, plans have a way of changing quickly in the Bay Area. Now he’s bringing it home to West Oakland, at 1733 Peralta Street — just down the street from the barbecue mothership. It’s a convenient location for shared logistics between the two restaurants, but it’s also a commitment to the neighborhood that has embraced Horn’s business so wholeheartedly. </p>
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</div></a><p style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px; margin-bottom:0; margin-top:8px; overflow:hidden; padding:8px 0 7px; text-align:center; text-overflow:ellipsis; white-space:nowrap;"><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CIZEJKWBrXH/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:normal; line-height:17px; text-decoration:none;" target="_blank">A post shared by Kowbird (@kowbird)</a></p>
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<p id="86Qim3">The menu will stay similar to the original plan, which was to open as a counter-service restaurant serving Southern-style chicken. That means a handful of different fried chicken sandwiches — each with its own batter and sauces — in addition to chicken wings, bone-in fried chicken, sides like collards and fried giblets, plus pies and cakes. Fried chicken sandwiches will run the gamut from classic Southern-style to a Korean version, and of course, Nashville hot chicken. There’ll also be beer and wine (you’ll need it to quench the fire from that Nashville heat). </p>
<aside id="bgrHK5"><div data-anthem-component="readmore" data-anthem-component-data='{"stories":[{"title":"An Oakland Barbecue Phenom Is Rolling Out a Fried Chicken Sandwich Joint ","url":"https://sf.eater.com/2020/1/30/21115801/kowbird-matt-horn-fried-chicken-sandwich-oakland"}]}'></div></aside><p id="NzNdpe">“Fried chicken is a part of American culture,” Horn <a href="https://sf.eater.com/2020/1/30/21115801/kowbird-matt-horn-fried-chicken-sandwich-oakland">told</a> Eater SF when he announced the idea in early 2020. “Chicken is chicken. But I wanted to put my touch on it.” </p>
<p id="HV9fID">Expect a mid-summer opening as the chef and his crew put the finishing touches on the interior, and navigate that dreaded city bureaucracy. </p>
<p id="YYKVez"></p>
https://sf.eater.com/2021/6/2/22465639/kowbird-fried-chicken-horn-barbecue-matt-horn-west-oaklandEllen Fort2021-06-02T09:40:20-07:002021-06-02T09:40:20-07:00Wine Country Roars Back to Life With Fine Dining Restaurants in High Demand
<figure>
<img alt="Single Thread" src="https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/_DG3X6dCbNyiNZBnRO8ksp3kkaQ=/400x0:6853x4840/1310x983/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_image/image/69372701/Eater_6480.0.jpg" />
<figcaption><a class="ql-link" href="http://napasphotographer.com/" target="_blank">Bob McClenahan</a></figcaption>
</figure>
<p>Diners are making up for lost time, chefs say</p> <p class="p--has-dropcap p-large-text" id="mxgCjb">When the coronavirus pandemic brought the world to a grinding halt in March 2020, people had time, in excess, to think about their former lives. How did they spend their time, and did they spend it well? Same goes for money — were the mundane activities and meals worth it? A common conversation starter (over Zoom, of course) became “What was the last thing you did before shutdown?” Combing through Lyft ride histories, pinpointing the actual <em>last thing</em> became a twisted party game: that last cup of coffee in a coffee shop, late-night burrito, multi-course meal, or cocktail <a href="https://sf.eater.com/2021/5/21/22447908/san-francisco-yellow-tier-bars-standing">served by an actual bartender</a> were part of the Before Times. </p>
<p id="n7Nu02">Throughout the last 15 months of limbo, restaurateurs, chefs, sommeliers, servers, dishwashers, and diners all waited to see what would happen. Would restaurants come back? Can diners conceivably ever crowd into a tiny bistro again and share a charcuterie plate elbow-to-elbow with strangers? The answer, it seems, is yes. Vaccination rates are rising, death rates are dropping, and people are beginning to venture out for dinner, music, movies, and more. </p>
<p id="xBubaJ">But even if regular restaurant dining is coming back as cities across the country reopen, the question of whether fine dining would also see a comeback — or keep its pre-pandemic relevance — remains. And now, with California only two weeks away from fully reopening, Eater SF is checking in on wine country, from Sonoma to Napa. The famed agricultural region is where many of America’s most lauded wines are produced, but it’s also an idyllic destination for fans of food and wine, where wine tasting experiences and fine dining restaurants are considered integral to the culture and economy.</p>
<p id="R9Dxbp">Chef Kyle Connaughton of three-Michelin-starred SingleThread in Healdsburg is bullish on the return of fine dining. His restaurant has become a beacon of the genre in his small Sonoma Valley town, creating a unique farm-to-table environment that commands adulation from locals and Michelin inspectors alive (the local approval perhaps being the most sought after and elusive). </p>
<p id="JEiG35">“It’s roaring back,” says Connaughton. “It’s not trickling back. It’s the busiest we’ve ever been, and the most demand we’ve ever seen.”</p>
<figure class="e-image">
<img alt=" " data-mask-text="false" src="https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/hESfenf5DI-5SfLJ0BcwregGXh0=/800x0/filters:no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/7572615/Eater_6481.jpg">
<cite><a class="ql-link" href="http://www.napasphotographer.com/" target="_blank">Bob McClenahan</a></cite>
<figcaption>A table at Single Thread</figcaption>
</figure>
<p id="1bp6Ht">Fine dining in wine country is different than in other parts of the country, and restaurants like SingleThread are high-end and high-hospitality, but they’re not necessarily the white tablecloth version that many diners associate with more traditional restaurants like Daniel or Le Bernardin in New York. At SingleThread, diners are part of an interactive conversation with the kitchen and chefs in the dining room, about where the food comes from (down the road on the restaurant’s farm) and who is preparing it.</p>
<p id="zez9oI">During the shut-down, Single Thread turned to an elaborate, gorgeous, outdoor dining setup called Usu-zan, a Japanese hot pot-focused experience. A tribute to a mountain near Hokkaido, where Kyle Connaughton and his wife and Single Thread’s head farmer, Katina lived for a period of time. The space was designed by Ken Fulk, creating a seamless experience that <em>SF Chronicle </em>critic Soleil Ho <a href="https://www.sfchronicle.com/food/restaurants/article/SingleThread-is-doing-the-nearly-impossible-in-16036131.php">said</a> was worth the trip, calling it “a seat in this make-believe room was as fine a perch as any from which one might consider how fine dining can stay relevant in this day and age.”</p>
<div class="c-float-right"> <figure class="e-image">
<img alt=" " data-mask-text="false" src="https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/Ss3X0plnR0T8F5ZLB1Sgf-PKn88=/800x0/filters:no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/22554804/img_8425_600_0x51x2533x3623_q85.jpeg">
<cite><a class="ql-link" href="https://www.singlethreadfarms.com/blog/usuzan" target="_blank">Single Thread</a></cite>
<figcaption>Hot pot at Usu-zan</figcaption>
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<p id="Fqsht5">The continued, even increased, interest in dining at a restaurant like Single Thread makes sense to Connaughton, particularly based on the laid-back experience diners experience there. Dining out now is all about having fun, relaxing, having boisterous conversation, rather than whispering to one another over their dinner plates. </p>
<p id="7ofn1h">“We’ve never been a ‘sit up straight and use the right fork and speak in hushed tones’ restaurant,” says Connaughton. “People tend to be a little louder and more casual and we don’t have a jacket requirement. It’s a come as you are and have a good time.”</p>
<p id="sru8F7">A year of canceled weddings, honeymoons, birthdays, vacations, and special occasions have resulted in a lot of pent-up celebration energy. Spending $400 on a 10-course meal is an expensive proposition, but still far cheaper than a vacation to Hawai’i in the post-vaccination travel era. Especially for Bay Area diners, who can easily venture to wine country for a transportive fine dining experience without leaving the COVID-conscious environs of Bay Area. </p>
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</div></a><p style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px; margin-bottom:0; margin-top:8px; overflow:hidden; padding:8px 0 7px; text-align:center; text-overflow:ellipsis; white-space:nowrap;"><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CL-ao8EMMYz/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:normal; line-height:17px; text-decoration:none;" target="_blank">A post shared by The Restaurant at Meadowood (@therestaurantmw)</a></p>
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<p id="vIEdQI">In Napa, the Restaurant at Meadowood was hit with a double whammy when its building burned to the ground during the <a href="https://sf.eater.com/2020/9/28/21472113/wine-country-fires-glass-shady-boysen-black-rock-inn-chateau-boswell">Glass Incident Fire</a> in September 2020. The swiftly spreading fire destroyed wineries and burned over 36,000 acres in Napa Valley, dealing an already struggling industry a hefty blow, economically and emotionally. Chef Christopher Kostow vowed to rebuild; in the short term, he and his team decamped to Ojai for a previously planned residency at the Farmhouse at Ojai, which ended May 31. Now, his core Meadowood team is working out of Charter Oak, with plans to do a few collaborative dinners around the country in the coming months. </p>
<p id="zAEM3f">“I’ve never been more confident in the creative and economic viability of fine dining,” Kostow says now. “That’s something we very much learned during the pandemic. People want, and will always want, despite the protestations of some, a heightened and elevated dining experience. At the end of the day, it’s a celebration of beauty, and I hope there’s never a time when that’s a concept that will become passé.”</p>
<p id="0LQsc4">Meanwhile, Kostow’s other restaurant, the more casual but still high-end Charter Oak, has been operating at max capacity. Its ample outdoor space allowed the restaurant to continue to operate and keep employees working. Kostow says that despite the demand, management made the choice to open only five days a week to keep the team’s work-life balance, despite the fact that reservations would have been booked fully for seven days. “We made a choice based on how much the team should be working,” says Kostow. “We’d rather do things right and go to our full schedule when the staffing permits, though we don’t know when that will be.”</p>
<p id="oavlD0">Kostow posits that wine country is a very fertile ground for fine dining for a few reasons: its confluence of wealthy visitors and locals whose life and travel choices are predicated on eating and drinking, combined with an abundance of high-end hotels that provide opportunities to do those projects. “As far as the zeitgeist and economy of [Napa Valley] I think it’s important,” says Kostow. “It keeps the tide high and tries to raise the general bar of things.” </p>
<p id="GnnkkG">As for the future of the Restaurant at Meadowood, Kostow says the timeline for reopening is “opaque,” but it will reopen in the latter half of the year. A long-term temporary space is currently under construction adjacent to the Meadowood property, where the restaurant will operate until the entirety of the resort is rebuilt. </p>
<div class="c-wide-block"> <figure class="e-image">
<img alt=" " data-mask-text="false" src="https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/F8JJFrHGfrnRqQdkDrmFQYGDBps=/800x0/filters:no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/22553711/TRUSS_Restaurant___Bar.jpg">
<cite>CCS Architecture</cite>
<figcaption>A rendering of the dining room at Truss</figcaption>
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<p id="ZoVpVL">Meanwhile, Truss, the highly anticipated new <a href="https://sf.eater.com/2019/8/29/20838629/napa-four-seasons-restaurant-erik-anderson-chef-truss-calistoga">restaurant helmed by chef Erik Anderson</a> at the new Four Seasons in Calistoga, is nearing an opening this summer after over a year of delays, both pandemic and construction-related. Anderson, who was most recently the executive chef of Daniel Patterson’s two-Michelin-starred restaurant COI in San Francisco, says that he sees restaurants as a crucial component of the region. </p>
<p id="qsGQwb">“I think fine dining will never go away, and will always exist in some form or another. I think it’s very important here [in Napa and Sonoma],” Anderson says. “The greatest wine in the country is grown and produced here, the greatest produce is grown here, and it’s the greatest region to work as a chef. I think the two need to go hand in hand.”</p>
<p id="hwYefa">It’s also an undeniable job generator, though some restaurants are <a href="https://www.eater.com/22417344/restaurant-labor-shortage-covid-19-unemployment-benefits-risks">struggling to staff up</a> as restrictions lift. Many workers have left the hospitality industry entirely, moving from cities to be closer to family, returning to school, and seeking different career paths altogether. Anderson says he needs at least 20 people working full-time to run his kitchen the way it should be run. </p>
<p id="eVHrYl">“It’s a struggle to find people. I think one thing for sure is that people have second-guessed their careers as is it comes to fine dining and I think a lot of people are going back to school or finding other career paths and I support that fully,” Anderson says. “You have to find whatever makes you happy and what you’re content with but I’ve seen a lot of peers pivot and decide ‘Maybe I don’t want to [work in restaurants anymore].’” </p>
<p id="6tmLNO">Continuing the conversation on how to improve the workplace is now more key than ever. “There’s that whole thing where the guest comes first and I don’t believe that. The way you have a contented guest is having a happy staff,” he says.</p>
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</div></a><p style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px; margin-bottom:0; margin-top:8px; overflow:hidden; padding:8px 0 7px; text-align:center; text-overflow:ellipsis; white-space:nowrap;"><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CFsx8gznqWc/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:normal; line-height:17px; text-decoration:none;" target="_blank">A post shared by The Restaurant at Meadowood (@therestaurantmw)</a></p>
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<p id="LOj8nv">On the diner side, guests’ desires have not changed, says Connaughton. </p>
<p id="Ktc9gT">“You can really feel the energy is just this energy of relief and of appreciation and for getting around the table with whoever they’re choosing to spend time with and letting loose, really having fun,” he says. “I would say the energy level and noise level in the dining room is higher than it’s ever been because people just want to laugh and have a good time and have fun conversations.”</p>
<p id="jked7V">There’s still room to evolve that experience, however, particularly for Meadowood as they start from scratch. It’s a new opportunity to shake things up in the dining room and the kitchen, and tailor that experience to what diners want now. That could mean the length of the experience, the number of courses, and looking for ways to create a more show-stopping experience for guests, many of whom will be venturing into a dining room for the first time in many months. </p>
<p id="8xRLx8">“I wish I wasn’t in the hospitality side of this moment and I could just be a guest right now and go out and freak out about how awesome that moment is,” Kostow says. </p>
<p id="mzFovb"></p>
https://sf.eater.com/2021/6/2/22463391/fine-dining-napa-sonoma-single-thread-meadowood-truss-openingEllen Fort2021-06-01T11:30:38-07:002021-06-01T11:30:38-07:00Sushi, Craft Cocktails, and More Newness in Napa and Sonoma
<figure>
<img alt="" src="https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/hZmnaV5Ly1nEmC14s7qMJ1wEJkU=/0x1233:2048x2769/1310x983/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_image/image/69097657/Duck_a_la_gray__lime_pickle__cre_me_fraiche_.7.jpg" />
<figcaption>Duck a la gray, lime pickle, crème fraiche at North Block | Mariana Calderon Photography</figcaption>
</figure>
<p>Exciting new restaurant openings in wine country, with what’s opened recently and what’s on the way </p> <p class="p-large-text" id="YZ1qXu">Though it has taken a hit, Napa tourism is on the rise as vaccinations increase and <a href="https://sf.eater.com/2021/4/6/22370532/wine-country-reopens-orange-tier">county restrictions ease</a>. Sunny weather and ample outdoor space make it an ideal destination for those seeking to ditch the fog (and their light sweaters) for wine, snacks, and vineyard views. Here are some of the most interesting restaurant and winery openings in Napa and Sonoma over the last six months, as well as a few to watch out for in the coming year. </p>
<h2 id="LX4DYG">Napa’s New Restaurants</h2>
<h3 id="xivZWq">Bay Grape Napa</h3>
<p id="0UmUPm">The little Oakland bottle shop that could has grown up with a Napa outpost. It opened in the last week of March with an enormous patio for drinking wine and enjoying snacks. The snacks include bread from fellow newcomer West Won Bakery, a custom-made paté from Contimo Provisions, and local cheeses, cured meats, and olives, too. Owners Stevie Stacionis and Josiah Baldivino opened their second location with locals in mind, taking a space a little more off the beaten path (outside downtown Napa). To serve locals and tourists alike, they’re hosting local producers for by-the-glass offerings each week, including standouts like Massican, Enfield, Carboniste, and more. Guests can browse the bottle shop inside, then snag snacks and bottles of wines to enjoy on the patio out back. There’s no indoor seating currently. </p>
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</div></a><p style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px; margin-bottom:0; margin-top:8px; overflow:hidden; padding:8px 0 7px; text-align:center; text-overflow:ellipsis; white-space:nowrap;"><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CM5k0sGLZ39/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:normal; line-height:17px; text-decoration:none;" target="_blank">A post shared by Ace & Vine (@aceandvine)</a></p>
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<h3 id="Wl13xA">Ace and Vine</h3>
<p id="L7582X">A <a href="http://aceandvine.com/">late-night destination</a> has hit sleepy downtown Napa, known for its early last call. And notably it has the only gaming license in the city of Napa, making its debut as a California Casino, too. That distinction means there are only card games such as Baccarat, Blackjack, and Texas Hold’em played, but no slots; there’s a dining menu available for players. Meanwhile, an enormous 4,500-square-foot patio is family friendly, serving a very extensive menu of “Asian fusion” dishes for breakfast, brunch, lunch, and dinner. Cocktails, beer, wine, and fire-pits can also be found on the patio, which overlooks the Napa River. </p>
<h3 id="bFYgUp">Empress M </h3>
<p id="aeACT6">Napa, notorious for its lack of Asian cuisine (with the exception of Morimoto, of course), has finally landed Empress M, a 5,000-square-foot restaurant serving dim sum and other Chinese delicacies at lunch and dinner. Big plate chicken, Mongolian lamb shops, and Empress roast duck are all headliners, with dim sum like chicken feet, taro puffs, bbq pork buns in support. Indoor, outdoor, and patio dining are all available, plus takeout. </p>
<h3 id="V5AWCc">North Block </h3>
<p id="EbkSmA">A team with years at chef David Chang’s Momofuku empire under their belts has arrived in Yountville, carving out space for a restaurant in Yountville’s North Block hotel, the former home of Redd Wood. Chef Nick Tamburo (Momofuku, Momofuku Nishi, Momofuku Ko) and general manager Andy Wedge (Momofuku) have opened the patio for dining with a menu of “Californian” food, utilizing Asian flavors and local ingredients, while taking advantage of the restaurant’s inherited wood-fired pizza oven. That translates to dishes like grilled black cod with mahogany clams, green garlic broth, and snap peas, and pizzas like duck sausage with tomato, mozzarella, basil, and chili oil. The restaurant is now partially open for indoor dining. </p>
<h2 id="zL35zJ">Sonoma’s New Restaurants </h2>
<h3 id="rDTucn">Valley Bar and Bottle</h3>
<p id="NeSp8X">Within Sonoma, despite its hospitality industry’s notoriously strict dedication to serving its own wines in its own valley, a new sign has risen. <a href="https://www.valleybarandbottle.com/">Valley Bar and Bottle Shop</a> has opened on Sonoma’s square, bringing with it a laid-back natural wine-focused enclave in a Sonoma pinot world. Two veterans of Sonoma’s other idyllic hipster hotspot, Scribe Winery — chef Emma Lipp and manager Lauren Feldman — have embraced the zeitgeist of the Parisian wine cave (see SF’s <a href="https://sf.eater.com/2019/1/17/18186991/verjus-wine-bar-quince-tusk-open-photos-menu-san-francisco">Verjus for reference</a>), with plates of olives, Don Bocartes anchovies, deviled eggs topped with umami-bomb xo sauce, and braised lamb with garbanzos and chilis. Sonoma winemakers like Martha Stoumen are mixed in with non-California daredevils like Hope Well in Oregon, and old world imports, too. </p>
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</div></a><p style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px; margin-bottom:0; margin-top:8px; overflow:hidden; padding:8px 0 7px; text-align:center; text-overflow:ellipsis; white-space:nowrap;"><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CNL0uA8rG65/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:normal; line-height:17px; text-decoration:none;" target="_blank">A post shared by V A L L E Y (@valleybarandbottle)</a></p>
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<h3 id="fq6mrF">Folktable</h3>
<p id="6lyQYd">From Top Chef alum Casey Thompson comes <a href="https://folktable.com/restaurant/">Folktable</a>, a bright and airy daytime restaurant located in Cornerstone Sonoma. Open for breakfast and dinner, its serving a menu of toasts and tartines, salads, as well as plates like chicken fat ginger rice with Dungeness crab and trout roe, and black truffle chicken handpies with fennel and mushroom. It’s now open for takeout and outdoor dining in the property’s sunny gardens. </p>
<h3 id="g0MR3w">House of Better</h3>
<p id="RXQ2Lz">Calistoga’s new wellness resort, Dr. Wilkinson’s Backyard Resort and Mineral Springs now has a matching restaurant named <a href="https://drwilkinson.com/house-of-better">House of Better</a>. Trevor Logan of San Francisco’s now-closed <a href="https://sf.eater.com/venue/green-chile-kitchen">Green Chile Kitchen</a>, is leading the cause with Southwestern inspired food that is wellness adjacent but still craveable, like green chile stew with immunity broth, greens and grains with kale and quinoa, and grilled fish tacos. </p>
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<h3 id="DuzrZg">West Won Bakery</h3>
<p id="sWnJWM">A permanent location for a Napa farmers market favorite is now open with <a href="https://westwonbread.com/">loves of sourdough</a>, coffee, and sandwiches. Kyle Kuehner worked at <a href="https://sf.eater.com/venue/firebrand-artisan-breads">Firebrand Artisan Breads</a> in Oakland and Model Bakery in St. Helena to hone his craft before pulling the trigger on this downtown Napa spot. Stop by for loaves of bread like German rye, focaccia, baguettes, and roasted garlic and rosemary. </p>
<aside id="lH2w9n"><div data-anthem-component="readmore" data-anthem-component-data='{"stories":[{"title":"The Best Bakeries in San Francisco","url":"https://sf.eater.com/maps/best-san-francisco-bakeries"}]}'></div></aside><h3 id="sySNNI"></h3>
<h2 id="BwnyvM">Coming Attractions</h2>
<h3 id="or28Qg"><a href="https://sf.eater.com/venue/truss">Truss</a></h3>
<p id="rTXcCc">The Four Seasons in Calistoga is not messing around with its luxury accommodations, including a <a href="https://www.trussrestaurantandbar.com/">fine dining restaurant</a> led by chef <a href="https://sf.eater.com/2019/8/29/20838629/napa-four-seasons-restaurant-erik-anderson-chef-truss-calistoga">Erik Anderso</a>n. Anderson has helmed Michelin-starred restaurants like <a href="https://sf.eater.com/venue/coi">COI</a>, where his decadent French technique has included ample caviar and even a tableside duck press. Anderson still plans to cook plenty of game birds, including California’s state bird; since it’s a hotel restaurant, Truss will serve breakfast, lunch, and dinner. The property promises to be stunning; the restaurant is currently slated for a mid 2021 opening. </p>
<h3 id="U4o0zy">Fleetwood </h3>
<p id="glfSjh">When it opens this spring, <a href="https://www.fleetwoodcalistoga.com/menus/">Fleetwood</a> will be yet another addition to Calistoga’s increasingly robust dining scene. It will focus on wood-fired pizza and anything else that benefits from a little smoke and fire, like a roasted chicken with garlic cream. </p>
<h3 id="67tFws">The Matheson </h3>
<p id="RH8gRt">Chef Dustin Valette (Valette, Valette Wine) will open a three-story restaurant, bar, and wine bar in downtown Healdsburg this summer called <a href="https://www.thematheson.com/">the Matheson.</a> It’s actually the former location of Snowflake Bakery, operated by Valette’s great grandfather Honore Valette. Now it’s getting new life with preservation and a redesign by SF architect Cass Calder Smith, and a slew of talented food and wine professionals. The project includes a rooftop bar and lounge, sushi bar by Ken Tominaga (<a href="https://sf.eater.com/venue/pabu">PABU</a>, Hana Sonoma), a ground floor garden lounge overlooking Sonoma’s square, and a “wine wall” featuring 88 wines from local producers on tap. Stay tuned for a summer opening. </p>
<h3 id="3msuc1">Little Saint</h3>
<p id="UDRMSm">Chefs Kyle and Katina Connaughton will extend their thoughtful, farm-driven cooking to Little Saint, a <a href="https://sf.eater.com/2021/5/13/22434409/little-saint-singlethread-kyle-katina-connaughton-vegetarian-healdsburg">completely plant-based restaurant</a> that will open in the former location of Healdsburg’s SHED. The building was recently purchased by local couple Jeff and Laurie Ubben, and will also become a community gather place for music, art, film screenings, and more. Little Saint will serve lunch and dinner with produce harvested from its nearby farm, while a quick-service and retail component will be available seven days a week, alongside a bottle shop.</p>
<h3 id="iVwPgK">Paulie’s Bagels</h3>
<p id="178Ycq">Napa’s bagel scarcity has now been remedied, thanks to the duo behind Winston’s Cafe and Paulie’s Bagels. Partners Paul Brown and Alex Macaraig <a href="https://sf.eater.com/2021/5/18/22442627/new-bagel-shop-napa-wine-country">will open</a> a bagel shop and cafe serving diner-style food in the former home of Alexis Baking Co. in downtown Napa. They want to provide something for locals outside of the continued influx of high-dollar tourist destinations. Brown’s bagels are kind of their own thing, avoiding the inevitable pitfalls of trying to recreate an NYC bagel in Wine Country with a brown, “pretzel-ized” exterior. The cafe opens in September; order <a href="https://www.pauliesbagels.com/">delivery</a> all the way from Napa to Calistoga on Fridays and Saturdays til then. </p>
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<aside id="WAIU24"><div data-anthem-component="readmore" data-anthem-component-data='{"stories":[{"title":"The Best Restaurants in Napa","url":"https://sf.eater.com/maps/best-essential-napa-valley-restaurants-bars"},{"title":"The Best Restaurants in Sonoma ","url":"https://sf.eater.com/maps/best-restaurants-sonoma-healdsburg-petaluma"}]}'></div></aside>
https://sf.eater.com/2021/4/8/22373648/sonoma-napa-new-restaurant-openings-coming-soonEllen Fort