On the way home from a day spent at Calaveras Big Trees, stop for a meal in the small town of Murphys, about 17 miles north of Sonora. Alchemy’s front room — painted Provençal yellow with tall windows and chandeliers casting warm light — feels cozy with a soupçon of posh. Global and local wines pair with dishes like banh mi with pickled onions and citrus slaw or mushroom risotto with shiitakes, enoki, and wood ear mushrooms. If it weren’t for the gold nugget bread and crab bacon mac and cheese with asiago and aged cheddar, you might swear you were in Avignon.

A sign inside this rough and ready saloon built in 1856 in the historic town of Columbia reminds you to “beware of pickpockets and loose women” and an old Ben Franklin stove is the room’s primary source of heat. But the pizza and beer are why you’re here. On tap kombucha and cider hang out alongside Morgan Territory Brewing’s nitro Scotch ale and Stone Brewing’s Buenaveza Salt and Lime lager. Pizzas come in a range of sizes, from six- to 14-inch (gluten-free only in personal size). Horseradish cream enlivens the sausage and mushrooms on the Columbian and there’s a regular old margherita pizza, too. Take it outside to one of the picnic tables to watch the other tourists go by or to let the kids run around in the open space next door.

Owner Teresa Torbett, who calls herself the “Petticoat Proprietress,” moved home in 2018 to reopen Columbia’s only grocery store with retro-modern goods that would be familiar to eaters spanning the last 160+ years. Torbett’s “historic provisioning” means organic hominy, 1849 tri-tip marinade, Calaveras County wines, and Straus milk alongside sourdough, blueberry pie, and veggies from nearby Blue Oak Farms. It all makes for excellent picnic supplies when heading out for a day at Yosemite or for a weekend of camping. Don’t forget to ask about ice.

Afternoon tea or a quick cuppa at Kate’s, an oasis of propriety amidst the old-timey rowdiness of Columbia, could be just the thing to restore your modern soul. Yes, there are tea sandwiches with the crusts removed and plenty loose-leaf teas, but the full lunch menu includes soup of the day, and salads (many with fruit), along with pasties, pot pie, and quiche. Proprietors Clare Bazley and Jessica and Jose Islas often set aside teatime with a prix fixe menu — look for the schedule posted in the window — while the fresh scones (some gluten-free), bakery goodies, tea, and coffee can be enjoyed anytime in the shaded garden.

Snag a coveted table in the flower-decked patio for house margaritas with fresh lime juice, and guacamole with endless chips (don’t say we didn’t warn you) placed on colorful tablecloths. Family-friendly quesadillas and taco combination plates are familiar in flavor, but it’s in the specialties section of the menu where you’ll find must-try chicken enchiladas with mole, and pork chile verde with enough heat to thrill your taste buds and make you scramble for a tissue to blow your nose.

Almost hidden next to an animal feed and supply store, this classic red sauce joint lines the walls with images of famous Italians and the family’s namesake, Pinocchio, along with statues and toys of the Disney cartoon character. Be sure to coat your lap with napkins before digging into the juicy meatballs or lasagna, each layer made from scratch, including the Bolognese. Gluten-free options are available — try the cauliflower flatbread bites with marinara — and, if you hail from the East Coast, a Cricket sandwich. The teetering stack of capocollo, mozzerella, and two kinds of salami on a sub roll will have you asking the staff, “You from Jersey?” as vinegar and oregano drip onto your napkin-covered pants.