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The 38 Essential San Francisco Restaurants, January 2014

by Allie Pape Jan 7, 2014, 2:02am PST

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by Allie Pape Jan 7, 2014, 2:02am PST

6 comments / new

It's time to update the Eater 38, your answer and ours to any question that begins, "Can you recommend a restaurant?" This highly elite group covers the entire city, spans myriad cuisines and collectively satisfies all of your restaurant needs. Every few months, we add pertinent restaurants that were omitted, have newly become eligible (restaurants must be open at least six months) or have stepped up their game. And keep in mind, this list is presented in no particular order.

As always, a few places must depart the 38, including Gitane (which has undergone a lot of chef shuffles of late), Outerlands (which is closed for renovations), and Izakaya Sozai. Their spaces are filled by industry fave Old Mandarin Islamic, crowd-pleaser Kokkari Estiatorio, and elegant Izakaya Yuzuki. (If you're looking to find our essential bars, the Eater SF cocktail heatmap has what you're seeking.)

Rather than having a stage-four meltdown over our having excluded your favorite restaurant from the list, wouldn't it be more productive to just nominate it for inclusion?

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Nopa

Both neighborhood standby and destination restaurant, Nopa does everything right: delicious, seasonal food that's not too precious or pricey, excellent cocktails, interesting wines, friendly waitstaff, late hours. Seven years into its tenure, it remains one of the city's toughest tickets: book early, try brunch, or go later in the evening for the awesome burger.

560 Divisadero St., San Francisco, CA 94117

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Frances

James Beard-beloved chef Melissa Perello has given us Frances, an easygoing, timeless neighborhood nook, serving hearty, yet nuanced seasonal dinners. Always begin with her bacon beignets, and finish with a slice of rich, apple-filled lumberjack cake. The tiny space fills up quickly, and reservations are a must even as it's aged.

3870 17th St., San Francisco, CA 94114

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Lers Ros Thai

Lers Ros is the only Thai restaurant in town with rabbit, frog and venison on its regular menu, but even the pad Thai rivals the best you'll find anywhere in Thailand. The pork belly, duck larb, and chili-garlic clams are perennials. A second location in Hayes Valley offers more ambience, at slightly inflated prices.

730 Larkin St, San Francisco, CA 94109

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Bar Tartine

Though it opened in 2006, the restaurant from the Tartine Bakery people continues to reinvent itself. Thanks to Nick Balla's ahead-of-the-curve Eastern European menus, this rustic neighborhood staple continues to push boundaries and palates, with an emphasis on housemade everything, from pickles to yogurt to beer. A shout is also in order for its daytime guise as a sandwich shop, touting irresistible smørrebrød on exclusive Tartine loaves like rye and porridge bread.

561 Valencia St, San Francisco, CA 94110

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ICHI Sushi

SF isn't much of a sushi town overall, as most chefs shy away from the challenge of pleasing bluefin-loving palates with offerings that suit the city's sustainable ethos. Ichi solves this dilemma by pre-dressing their quirky nigiri; order the (surprisingly reasonably priced) omakase and let the chefs take you on an aquatic journey. [Note: The restaurant will be moving across the street sometime this fall.]

3369 Mission St, San Francisco, CA 94110

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SPQR

Chef Matt Accarrino continues to refine his craft, serving his own irresistible brand of Italian food, that remains hearty and homey despite the use of refined technique. Try to score seats at the chef's counter and don't miss the exceptional wine list, curated by award-winning sommelier Shelley Lindgren.

1911 Fillmore St, San Francisco, CA 94115

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Aziza

Mourad Lahlou continues to redefine Moroccan cuisine in the California vernacular: from the must-order bisteeya, to sous vide short rib with carrot jam, to Melissa Chou's not-to-be-missed, anything-but-rustic desserts.

5800 Geary Blvd, San Francisco, CA 94121

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Old Mandarin Islamic Restaurant

For an alternative take on Chinese fare, Old Mandarin is a beloved industry standby. Cumin lamb, beef pancakes, and a very generous BYOB policy (yes, despite the name) are the keys to its popularity, and while it's definitely not the place to go for health food, it's spicy and reasonably priced.

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3132 Vicente St, San Francisco, CA 94116

Tony’s Pizza Napoletana

World Pizza Champion Tony Gemignani bakes every kind of pizza imaginable: New York, Roman, Sicilian, and on. His Neapolitan is an award-winner and his on-site pizza school attracts students from across the country. Bonus points for a bustling, friendly atmosphere, including a bar for date nights and booths for grandpa.

1570 Stockton St, San Francisco, CA 94133

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Namu Gaji

The Lee Brothers hit a gold mine when they opened their sophomore effort on Dolores Park, serving the most nuanced, contemporary take on Korean food in town. Menu standouts include the KFC (chicken wings), stonepot rice, okonomiyaki, and dumplings. It's worth going in early for happy hour, the only time gamja fries and Korean tacos are served.

499 Dolores St., San Francisco, CA 94103

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AQ Restaurant & Bar

Chef-partner Mark Liberman's inspired flavor combinations—think 'bbq pork' with cornbread, mustard ash and licorice root—join a cocktail program and interior design that are best in their San Francisco class, bringing unprecedented energy and food quality to an unlikely stretch of Mission Street.

1085 Mission St, San Francisco, CA 94103

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Four Barrel Coffee/The Mill

SF has many excellent third-wave coffee roasters, but Jeremy Tooker's Mission/Divis duo get the nod for not only having great java, but top-notch pastries and bread from Josey Baker (on Divis) and Belinda Leong (on Valencia). And in this work-from-home town, Four Barrel's no-laptop policy really does make the atmosphere at both cafes more inviting.

375 Valencia St, San Francisco, CA 94103

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Maven

In new chef Isaac Miller, Maven now has a culinary force that's the equal of Kate Bolton's always-great cocktail program. Whether you're in for a burger and a cocktail or a five-course extravaganza with drink pairings, you'll leave satisfied, and the buzzing energy of the dining room is hard to resist.

598 Haight St, San Francisco, CA 94117

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Bar Agricole

When it opened, raves about Bar Agricole's gorgeous, cutting-edge design and its killer cocktail program rolled in endlessly. Though opening chef Brandon Jew recently departed, his former sous chef Reina Talanoa has kept standards high. The menu changes nightly, but spaghetti and housemade meat dishes are continual hits.

355 11th St., San Francisco, CA 94103

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Nopalito

Though it shares ownership with Nopa, Nopalito is very much its own beast, serving smart, sustainable sit-down Mexican fare that provides a nice counterpoint to the taqueria grind. From the addictive totopos con chile to the comforting tortilla soup to the killer carnitas, there's something for everyone here (plus damn good margaritas).

306 Broderick St, San Francisco, CA

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Kokkari Estiatorio

A crazy crowd-pleaser (especially for parents in town), Kokkari rocks something of an older crowd, but it's hard to deny its appealing meld of Cal-Greek fare, a wood-burning hearth, and a busy, urban vibe. The zucchini cakes, hearth-grilled lamb chops, and baklava ice cream are all perennials.

200 Jackson St, San Francisco, CA 94111

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Range

From the training ground for greatness behind their bar to the always delicious seasonal menu and friendly service, Range is one of the most consistent restaurants in town. It's a grown-up place, good for date nights, dinners with the parents, and anything else that requires some peace, quiet, and space.

842 Valencia St, San Francisco, CA 94110

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R & G Lounge

The Richmond and Sunset are consistently better sources of Chinese food than Chinatown itself, but for group dining that's a notch above hole-in-the-wall, R&G is one of the few Chinatown spots that delivers. Bring a group and settle in amongst the families going to town on its famed salt-and-pepper crab, Peking duck, walnut prawns, and other Cantonese banquet favorites.

631 Kearny St, San Francisco, CA 94108

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Perbacco

Mature and stylish, Perbacco has established itself as one of the best Italian restaurants in the city. Owner Umberto Gibin is a presence in the front of house, and chef Staffan Terje continues to surprise with his seasonal and refined Northern Italian fare.

230 California St, San Francisco, CA 94111

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Foreign Cinema

While the beloved brunch, flickering hearth and nightly movies continue, Gayle Pirie and John Clark are keeping things fresh at their 20-year-old Mission standby, with new North Africa and Mediterranean menu leanings and a deepened wine program.

2534 Mission St, San Francisco, CA 94110

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Super Duper Burgers

Although it's lovely that there is Straus milk in the shakes and 100% Niman Ranch beef in the patties, what really matters is taste, and Super Duper's burgers—with their perfect ratio of meat to bread and cheddar cheese—continually rank among the best in the Bay Area.

721 Market St., San Francisco, CA 94103

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Rich Table

Evan and Sarah Rich's inventive food may have been slightly overshadowed by the other couple that opened a great and deeply personal restaurant in SF this year, but this spot is every bit as good as State Bird, with wildly inventive, consistently delicious food and a smart wine selection and cocktail program. Don't miss the sardine chips, flatbreads, and pastas.

199 Gough St, San Francisco, CA 94102

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Izakaya Yuzuki

Elegant and transporting, this lovely Mission izakaya is a must for its pristine chawanmushi, homemade tofu, chicken karaage, and other delights. Somewhat underrated in the local scene, it's definitely more expensive than your average izakaya, but the superb food (and sake collection) is worth the extra cost.

598 Guerrero St, San Francisco, CA 94110

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Greens Restaurant

Annie Somerville's been quietly putting out excellent vegetarian fare down at Fort Mason for more than 30 years, and dishes like mesquite-grilled tofu brochettes and potato griddle cakes will win over even the most die-hard carnivore. The water views are pretty great as well.

Building A, San Francisco, CA 94123

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Flour + Water

The opening media buzz has died down, but F+W continues to gather lines at 5 p.m. nightly, packing the house with its sophisticated pizzas and pastas served in a lively, casual atmosphere.

2401 Harrison St, San Francisco, CA 94110

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Mission Chinese Food

Try crossing the studied, Sichuan-laced creations of a workhorse young chef with a kickback dive atmosphere, pumped up by ghetto rap and a 60-foot dragon. Now you’ve got the biggest Chinese restaurant adventure in San Francisco. NYC's branch may have made Danny Bowien into a household name, but SF has the claim to the original (and to its insane lines).

2234 Mission St, San Francisco, CA 94110

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Commonwealth

Jason Fox's food continues to evolve now that Commonwealth is three years in, and paired with the sleek, Mission-hip atmosphere, reasonable prices for the high-end fare, and the charitable outreach of the space, it's a hard combination not to love.

2224 Mission St, San Francisco, CA 94110

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La Taqueria

It wouldn’t be San Francisco without The Mission’s squadron of gut-busting taquerias. This one continues to lead the pack with unwavering rave reviews for its sublime, spot-on Mexico staples.

2889 Mission St, San Francisco, CA 94110

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La Ciccia

Not so much San Francisco Italian as pure unadulterated regional Italian (Sardinia, to be specific), this family-run sparkler is free of pretension and full of love. Don’t miss the spicy octopus stew, the sea urchin pasta, and the unusual wine selection.

291 30th St, San Francisco, CA 94131

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Delfina/Pizzeria Delfina

You can make the argument that no restaurant in the last decade has changed the dining landscape quite like Delfina and its pizzeria offshoot next door, which turned the Mission into a dining hotspot. They're both still winners: Delfina's Cal-Ital fare pleases picky parents and fawning foodies alike, and Pizzeria Delfina's pies are fresh, seasonal, and best enjoyed with a glass of rosé on the sidewalk as the world passes by.

3621 18th St, San Francisco, CA 94110

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La Torta Gorda

When a "hole-in-the-wall" turns out to be a bright family-run stop with outrageously good tortas and super authentic Puebla eats, that's 38 material. The pierna enchilada (pulled pork) torta is the perennial, but they're all good, and huge; no need to order the large unless you've got a hefty appetite or a hellish hangover.

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2833 24th St., San Francisco, CA 94110

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