With the price of a steak higher than ever, beef tartare is a comparatively affordable luxury, particularly for restaurants that want to make the most of whole-animal butchery programs. As a result, steak tartare is breaking out of its traditionally French mold and making appearances on menus across town, including both of the big new spots (The Coachman and The Square) that opened this week. Here are 18 spots offering beef tartare around town, in versions ranging from classically Gallic to wildly Northern Californian.
Rose Garrett contributed to this story.
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